Means IRF9610 is pushed to high VGS. Looking for more VDS (Vin-Vout) to breathe. How much is its VGS now, 6V?
The other beefier IRF9x30 M1s will raise lower VGS at same current. Your Vi-Vo DC margin with your now transformer will better contain their resultant VDS minimum requirement, you see how it goes. Their much better RthJC also makes them reliable for such current range. By the way even 2 Amp at 0.6V is 1.2W R1 dissipation so a 5W part is alright. Again you see how it goes.
Salas I don't have 75K for VRR, I have 68K1 or 100K (I don't have 150K to parallel them)?
Also I don't have 20K trimmer for VR1, I have 10K or 50K?
For C2 I have Nichicon Muse BP 220uF 50V, could I use BG 220uF 16V?
For C3 I have Nichicon Muse BP 33uF 50V, could I use BG 47uF 50V?
Also I don't have 20K trimmer for VR1, I have 10K or 50K?
For C2 I have Nichicon Muse BP 220uF 50V, could I use BG 220uF 16V?
For C3 I have Nichicon Muse BP 33uF 50V, could I use BG 47uF 50V?
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Black Gates you could use. VR1 10K with 100K VRR gives up to 25V output if enough for you. I don't know of tested substitutes for IRF530 in this circuit. Maybe IRF630 which is rather near. If in a hurry and you got to risk with some NMOS in hand see it to have near enough capacitance spec to the original and check with the scope that no rail oscillations happen.
Very good. Most Q1 samples reflect around 0.58V Vbe on R1 after warmed up in this position and Ic bias level. Found it in a town shop or forgotten in a drawer? Output loading does not matter to M1 as it will be passing the full CCS current setting anyway. Did you measure what IRF9610's VGS was for a comparison on same CCS before removing it?
IRF9630 was found in the only electronic shop in town worth mentioning (if you value your time you wouldn't go somewhere else). No I haven't measured it before removing it mainly because it was kind of temporary solution, a used one with shorter legs than I wanted (when it comes to connections/soldering I'm perfectionist).
I'll use a bigger transformer, (15VAC, > 100VA) and shoot for bigger target voltage (12VDC) mainly because it sags at the startup and the equipment won't start (same thing with BIB). IIRC last time with BIB it used about 700mA while playing. It's such a waste of energy having to provide such current at startup, not to mention the heatsink needed.
If my friend falls in love with the results we will consider actually housing it.
Is it worth it ? Well, with BIB there was definitely an improvement but not a night-and-day thing, my guess because there are local regulators further down the line doing the job.
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That's the thing with booting digital gear and shunts. You must set CCS high for what is a brief and then you burn away wastefully for regular operation. Maybe if you put a remote operated relay to switch between two R1s so it would be an energy saver. Something like overdrive/drive mode.
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A small relay right on the legs of two R1 resistors locally. Either to exchange or parallel them in circuit. Paralleling will be seamless. With a panel switch to control the relay's coil is energized or not. From a very basic auxiliary DC source made out from taping on the Raw DC. Panel switch labeled say Boot / Operate.
A small relay right on the legs of two R1 resistors locally. Either to exchange or parallel them in circuit. Paralleling will be seamless. With a panel switch to control the relay's coil is energized or not. From a very basic auxiliary DC source made out from taping on the Raw DC. Panel switch labeled say Boot / Operate.
I thought of more automatic way with delay circuit and a relay setting CCS.
My preference nowadays is circuit like L-adapter for main regulation and then shunts or super regs for local regs. But that's the beauty of DIY, you pick what's needed for the particular job in order to have the results you like. Now we have a ready made solution and in order to have the particular results we may go an unorthodox way of achieving it.
Right now I'm enjoying UBIB / BIB with my DCG3. Both are very enjoyable and come down to system synergy and taste to what you pick. Need more ? No, absolutely no.
My preference nowadays is circuit like L-adapter for main regulation and then shunts or super regs for local regs. But that's the beauty of DIY, you pick what's needed for the particular job in order to have the results you like. Now we have a ready made solution and in order to have the particular results we may go an unorthodox way of achieving it.
Right now I'm enjoying UBIB / BIB with my DCG3. Both are very enjoyable and come down to system synergy and taste to what you pick. Need more ? No, absolutely no.
Aha, parallel resistors solution, that makes sense. Doing it more automatic, a relay energized for 3-4 seconds giving path to second resistor (parallel) and then closed leaving only one in path.
900ma CSS (with 700mA draw) is very acceptable (heat and consumption wise).
Also, smaller capacitor and rectifiers
A great solution in this case. Thanks Nick, always delivering the goods