Have removed the diode and mosfet no reading from ether.Man they did not want to come out, do not think i have done the board much good.
Solder wick is next best thing if without a vacuum de-soldering station. #426 from MG Chemicals works nicely for me after few bad ones I tried.
Some serious over-current must have happened to take out such size diode components. The Mosfet could have been the culprit. Its the only one big component there that can theoretically get a broken gate by static discharge during handling & soldering. Though I don't remember such an incident in the Hypnotize thread with its big TO-247s. We had some PSU no-go incidents with TO-220 Mosfets in older phono builds. But not catastrophic. They simply wouldn't develop enough output voltage or it will be high and not adjustable. Is your soldering iron's tip connected to the mains ground through a three prong power plug? Irons need that to prevent static.
I recommend you use even a roughly put together dim bulb tester before you will power it up again. The bulb's current limiting action will warn fault and protect against spreading damage.
Some serious over-current must have happened to take out such size diode components. The Mosfet could have been the culprit. Its the only one big component there that can theoretically get a broken gate by static discharge during handling & soldering. Though I don't remember such an incident in the Hypnotize thread with its big TO-247s. We had some PSU no-go incidents with TO-220 Mosfets in older phono builds. But not catastrophic. They simply wouldn't develop enough output voltage or it will be high and not adjustable. Is your soldering iron's tip connected to the mains ground through a three prong power plug? Irons need that to prevent static.
I recommend you use even a roughly put together dim bulb tester before you will power it up again. The bulb's current limiting action will warn fault and protect against spreading damage.
Ok thanks sounds like your saying i have killed the Mosfets. Will try a take some photos later.To be honest think i have gone far enough maybe time to cut my losses.
Not sure, its just a scenario. Maybe its the only one gone MOSFET even. An easy way to confirm is in this video. That's an NMOS example. For a PMOS we just reverse the probes polarity. IRFP240/9240 NMOS/PMOS pinout is GDS.
Hi
I have had someone (who knows) look at it and he thinks the board has been compromised is there any where i can buy a replacement.
Thanks
I have had someone (who knows) look at it and he thinks the board has been compromised is there any where i can buy a replacement.
Thanks
Hi,
I have a blue DCB1 I built years ago. It was working fine until now. One if the lens in a group of 3 is no longer lit.
. I admit I'm not great at this, but am willing to try any suggestions to get this going again.
I can provide any measurements that might help. Thank you!
I have a blue DCB1 I built years ago. It was working fine until now. One if the lens in a group of 3 is no longer lit.
. I admit I'm not great at this, but am willing to try any suggestions to get this going again.
I can provide any measurements that might help. Thank you!
Hi,
Generally when one LED in a DCB1 no longer works the others in its group do not light up as well. Because they are in series and the chain is broken. LEDs almost always fail open. In your case maybe it just still conducts without proper voltage drop. Which is odd. Certainly replace the dark one first and we see about Mosfets working Vgs next. On a more basic level confirm that the rectification and reservoir capacitors do feed the system properly. Something like +/-21 VDC when using a 15-0-15 VAC Transformer.
Generally when one LED in a DCB1 no longer works the others in its group do not light up as well. Because they are in series and the chain is broken. LEDs almost always fail open. In your case maybe it just still conducts without proper voltage drop. Which is odd. Certainly replace the dark one first and we see about Mosfets working Vgs next. On a more basic level confirm that the rectification and reservoir capacitors do feed the system properly. Something like +/-21 VDC when using a 15-0-15 VAC Transformer.
Hello!
I have on hands DAC Soekris dam2941. For that device will use Reflektor-D and UltraBib. But what about buffer, wanted to use ultimate quality. Is it will be usefull to use Direct Coupled B-1 Buffer for that purpose? After buffer will be TVC (transformer volume control) 35KOhm and then headphone amplifier.
I have on hands DAC Soekris dam2941. For that device will use Reflektor-D and UltraBib. But what about buffer, wanted to use ultimate quality. Is it will be usefull to use Direct Coupled B-1 Buffer for that purpose? After buffer will be TVC (transformer volume control) 35KOhm and then headphone amplifier.
Last edited:
Good!
But it is many vatiants of layouts: Mezmerize, DCB1 Flexsink Edition, Hotrodded blue DCB1 and may be some else.
What is better for my case: R2R DAC -> DBC1 buffer preamp -> 35KOhm TVC -> balanced beta22 amplifier? Does it make sence to make my own layout?
But it is many vatiants of layouts: Mezmerize, DCB1 Flexsink Edition, Hotrodded blue DCB1 and may be some else.
What is better for my case: R2R DAC -> DBC1 buffer preamp -> 35KOhm TVC -> balanced beta22 amplifier? Does it make sence to make my own layout?
If its for an own box single input buffer preamp where space isn't the problem, most massive raw PSU one is Flexsink. Its the successor of Blue or Black Hypnotize.
So for balance needed 2x Flexsink boards.
Good review of sound from original B1 buffer vs your DCB1 https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b1-buffer-preamp.124889/post-7117933 . Sounds promising.
Does it make sence to take 2x original buffer and use UltraBib as PSU? Or those shunts in DCB1 is better for B1?
Good review of sound from original B1 buffer vs your DCB1 https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b1-buffer-preamp.124889/post-7117933 . Sounds promising.
Does it make sence to take 2x original buffer and use UltraBib as PSU? Or those shunts in DCB1 is better for B1?
You mean the simple B1, alright. DCB1 (+/-PSU no coupling caps) is superior. And cheaper as it deletes pricey coupling caps. You could make a small dual DCB1 eight JFETs audio core for balanced stereo on perfboard and use an UltraBiB for both channels. That would be the minimal size and cost good quality application. The fully fledged DCB1 boards with own supply are a known quantity, surely having a synergistic sound between their shunt PSU and their audio core but we don't expect an UltraBib combination to be meh. Although I haven't put together such a combination to tell you for sure.