Solder wick is next best thing if without a vacuum de-soldering station. #426 from MG Chemicals works nicely for me after few bad ones I tried.
Some serious over-current must have happened to take out such size diode components. The Mosfet could have been the culprit. Its the only one big component there that can theoretically get a broken gate by static discharge during handling & soldering. Though I don't remember such an incident in the Hypnotize thread with its big TO-247s. We had some PSU no-go incidents with TO-220 Mosfets in older phono builds. But not catastrophic. They simply wouldn't develop enough output voltage or it will be high and not adjustable. Is your soldering iron's tip connected to the mains ground through a three prong power plug? Irons need that to prevent static.
I recommend you use even a roughly put together dim bulb tester before you will power it up again. The bulb's current limiting action will warn fault and protect against spreading damage.
Some serious over-current must have happened to take out such size diode components. The Mosfet could have been the culprit. Its the only one big component there that can theoretically get a broken gate by static discharge during handling & soldering. Though I don't remember such an incident in the Hypnotize thread with its big TO-247s. We had some PSU no-go incidents with TO-220 Mosfets in older phono builds. But not catastrophic. They simply wouldn't develop enough output voltage or it will be high and not adjustable. Is your soldering iron's tip connected to the mains ground through a three prong power plug? Irons need that to prevent static.
I recommend you use even a roughly put together dim bulb tester before you will power it up again. The bulb's current limiting action will warn fault and protect against spreading damage.
Hi,
Generally when one LED in a DCB1 no longer works the others in its group do not light up as well. Because they are in series and the chain is broken. LEDs almost always fail open. In your case maybe it just still conducts without proper voltage drop. Which is odd. Certainly replace the dark one first and we see about Mosfets working Vgs next. On a more basic level confirm that the rectification and reservoir capacitors do feed the system properly. Something like +/-21 VDC when using a 15-0-15 VAC Transformer.
Generally when one LED in a DCB1 no longer works the others in its group do not light up as well. Because they are in series and the chain is broken. LEDs almost always fail open. In your case maybe it just still conducts without proper voltage drop. Which is odd. Certainly replace the dark one first and we see about Mosfets working Vgs next. On a more basic level confirm that the rectification and reservoir capacitors do feed the system properly. Something like +/-21 VDC when using a 15-0-15 VAC Transformer.
Hello!
I have on hands DAC Soekris dam2941. For that device will use Reflektor-D and UltraBib. But what about buffer, wanted to use ultimate quality. Is it will be usefull to use Direct Coupled B-1 Buffer for that purpose? After buffer will be TVC (transformer volume control) 35KOhm and then headphone amplifier.
I have on hands DAC Soekris dam2941. For that device will use Reflektor-D and UltraBib. But what about buffer, wanted to use ultimate quality. Is it will be usefull to use Direct Coupled B-1 Buffer for that purpose? After buffer will be TVC (transformer volume control) 35KOhm and then headphone amplifier.
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So for balance needed 2x Flexsink boards.
Good review of sound from original B1 buffer vs your DCB1 https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b1-buffer-preamp.124889/post-7117933 . Sounds promising.
Does it make sence to take 2x original buffer and use UltraBib as PSU? Or those shunts in DCB1 is better for B1?
Good review of sound from original B1 buffer vs your DCB1 https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b1-buffer-preamp.124889/post-7117933 . Sounds promising.
Does it make sence to take 2x original buffer and use UltraBib as PSU? Or those shunts in DCB1 is better for B1?
You mean the simple B1, alright. DCB1 (+/-PSU no coupling caps) is superior. And cheaper as it deletes pricey coupling caps. You could make a small dual DCB1 eight JFETs audio core for balanced stereo on perfboard and use an UltraBiB for both channels. That would be the minimal size and cost good quality application. The fully fledged DCB1 boards with own supply are a known quantity, surely having a synergistic sound between their shunt PSU and their audio core but we don't expect an UltraBib combination to be meh. Although I haven't put together such a combination to tell you for sure.