Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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So attaching the correct ends together an connecting to the 0V/center tap position on the board and the other ends to the 15V position is just fine and the fact that the combined voltage would be 30V is good? That would be a major relief. I have all the data of the built transformer so wiring it correctly is not a problem. Toroidy has a great product and service.
It will end with ~15 0 ~15 (~30 end to end) and that is what's needed
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Also good to mention that I ordered the new black board from tea-bag, but I suspect that doesn't change things in this regard.
No it doesn't change things in this regard. This new Hypno "Flexsink" board is about heavy duty hot-rod best versatile. Can be used conservatively with onboard sinks but also enhance sound quality if loaded with all four reservoir capacitors and cranked up to heavy bias with external sinks, but it doesn't differentiate AC/DC voltages spec.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Salas, I am contemplating building the UFSP. Made the schematic and a take on a single sided PCB. But maybe I will go for 2-layer...
I have tried to follow your schematic as good as I can, but could you give it a glance to see if something is terribly wrong? Thanks!
Then about ground plane: is it to avoid on the project, or will it be a benefit?

Edit: Sorry, this came in the wrong thread!
Q3 is upside down? No, seems OK. Use of GP is alright.
 
Q3 is upside down? No, seems OK. Use of GP is alright.
Thank you!
If I decide to produce a proper PCB, how may I accnowlegde you're the author? Is there a Forum Etiquette regarding this? Here is how my PCB might look like (take 1, using big, low tolerance components I happen to have) :)
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Obviously an overcurrent situation. Is the transformer wired the same as to the oppposite PSU polarity side? There are also the TO-220 MUR diodes of the problematic side to check. All DMMs have a diode check mode. Then test the three LEDs. Is one or more of those populated in reverse or broken? You can try light them up with diode check mode again if capable. If not, check them fast with wires from 3-9V battery. No need to remove the MURs or the LEDs from PCB to perform such tests. Power should be off while performing all the above.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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See about the three Leds and their associated JFET first before removing the bridge diodes for off board retest/replacement. Because in TO-220 size they are tough components and its odd to be all four of them broken. Especially when one side DC power works.