So at first ; what I am looking for ; what components I must suspect.
Where is DCB1 diagram on DIY
Thanks for your help.
Check diodes w battery or so first. They easily go south with to much solder heat. Then start measure voltages over comps from PSU and down. Diagram in post #4 this thread.
I've just finished my DCB1 build and sounds really good from the first power up. One thing is not clear to me, what cap to install in the middle of pcb?
I see there 0.22uf but also 100uf elco.
What's the idea of two caps and what is the best choice ?
Adrian
I see there 0.22uf but also 100uf elco.
What's the idea of two caps and what is the best choice ?
Adrian
non hot rod design used 100uf.
Hot rod style uses .22uf typically, but it can be somewhat bigger or smaller.
Hot rod style uses .22uf typically, but it can be somewhat bigger or smaller.
Try film cap, try good electrolytic cap, and decide for your system with own ears is best diy.
Try polystyrene caps (Styroflex in Europe) - to my ears the offer the right combination of clarity and warmth.
Today a friend and I managed to use an old heatsink I for to finish hotrodding. Moved down from 3.9R via 1.95R to final 1.3R (= a litte more than 1A). The sound changed is pretty breathtaking. The presentation gets more solid, you get a lot more natural timbres (colours) and any hint towards harshness disappears. This preamp is absolutely unbelievable.....IMHO.
Cheers,
dubai
Today a friend and I managed to use an old heatsink I for to finish hotrodding. Moved down from 3.9R via 1.95R to final 1.3R (= a litte more than 1A). The sound changed is pretty breathtaking. The presentation gets more solid, you get a lot more natural timbres (colours) and any hint towards harshness disappears. This preamp is absolutely unbelievable.....IMHO.
Cheers,
dubai
Tea-Bag,
What chassis is that? Mind sharing the source?
You can get nice chassis from the DIYaudio shop
Full width with 40mm Heatsinks - Chassis
You can also buy them directly from Modushop in Italy (Pesante Dissipante section)
modushop.biz
Also on Ebay
FS 430 Full Aluminum Power Amp Enclosure Case External Size 430mm 150mm 314mm | eBay
There's also many more sources
Ciao!
Do
Tea-Bag,
What chassis is that? Mind sharing the source?
For the amp, I just buy metal online and bolt it together.
The pre is repurposed WAN router.
I try to be cheap and unattractive as possible.
I am not one to want it to look world class.
Pinnocchio - Thanks for the leads. All look solid. I did some e-pay search work and lots of decent opitions. Thanks again
"I try to be cheap and unattractive as possible" - I love it! I should put that on my autosignature at work!
"I try to be cheap and unattractive as possible" - I love it! I should put that on my autosignature at work!
"I try to be cheap and unattractive as possible" - I love it! I should put that on my autosignature at work!
I say that to my co-workers. I figure if I look homeless and crazy, people will not bug me. (Doesn't usually work) One learns there own coping mechanisms, healthy or not.
Pinnocchio - Thanks for the leads. All look solid. I did some e-pay search work and lots of decent opitions. Thanks again
"I try to be cheap and unattractive as possible" - I love it! I should put that on my autosignature at work!
No problem. I personnally always buy the Modushop chassis but my friend buys the ones on ePay (the link I gave you) and it is really nice!
Ciao!
Do
Salas, I was curious and deciding which value for the potentiometer in front of the DCB1 to choose, either 10K or 25K? I thought that 10K is too low for loading my DAC and phone preamp, on the other hand 25K, as you have mentioned may be a bit too high for proper DCB1 operation, even thought it would benefit by less loading the source equipment. The lowest possible distortion level is the goal.
I would appreciate for your advice.
I would appreciate for your advice.
I have just received the 0,47uF FT3 caps... Damn those are HUGE!! They even came in a wooden box...
But I have just tried some new interconnect cabling and to be honest I do not feel like changing anything for now... Sweet sweet sweet music 😀
For reference, here is a photo showing the relative sizes of the caps.
From left to right we have...
0.012uF FT1 teflon (wrapped and unwrapped)
0.47uF Mundorf Supreme
0.47uF Mundorf Supreme Silver-Gold
2.2uF K75-10 PIO
0.1uF FT3 teflon
0.22uF FT3 teflon
0.47uF FT3 teflon
But I have just tried some new interconnect cabling and to be honest I do not feel like changing anything for now... Sweet sweet sweet music 😀
For reference, here is a photo showing the relative sizes of the caps.
From left to right we have...
0.012uF FT1 teflon (wrapped and unwrapped)
0.47uF Mundorf Supreme
0.47uF Mundorf Supreme Silver-Gold
2.2uF K75-10 PIO
0.1uF FT3 teflon
0.22uF FT3 teflon
0.47uF FT3 teflon
Attachments
Could someone who knows Cyrillic post a reference table showing the "codes" of these various Russian capacitors and what they mean with the english equivalent?
It seems that the T & the 3 translate exactly.
What is the Cyrillic for Vac and Vdc?
It seems that the T & the 3 translate exactly.
What is the Cyrillic for Vac and Vdc?
V should appear as B
uF should appear as μΦ
I hope you can properly see the utf-8 characters. I m posting them from the Greek alphabet
uF should appear as μΦ
I hope you can properly see the utf-8 characters. I m posting them from the Greek alphabet
Is B = AC or DC voltage?V should appear as B
uF should appear as μΦ
I hope you can properly see the utf-8 characters. I m posting them from the Greek alphabet
Can anyone do the remaining characters?
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