You already found the board that does the pop. Try to alternatively feed the I-Select from the DCSTB's raw DC section not its stabilized output which is shared directly with a channel. From a reservoir capacitor's pins. C1 or C2 on DCSTB. The sink should be well mechanically connected to where it will sit. With thermal paste between mating metal surfaces. So to be both sturdy and to transfer heat to chassis easier.
Feeding I-Select from C1 and then the boards from the i-select out was the initial implementation, but it created a ground loop when connecting the VU-meter control board. Feeding the remote control before the stabilizer is not an option, since it can handle up to 15VDC and the raw DC is higher than that. That's why I was thinking of the alternate plan: TF secondary---->additional stabilizer--->remote control board.
If not, or not in the bearable future, tea-bag runs a shop: https://reverb.com/de/shop/teabags-boutique
I finally found the time to implement the change, and now the pop is gone! I followed the last plan, i.e. feed the remote control board from C1 of DCSTB. VU meter board still gets power from the DCSTB out. Perfect clean, a slightest hiss with the ear in front of the speaker on the turntable input on max volume.
Now the small board gives a more DIY flavour to the implementation. I have cleaned up the cabling a bit too. When back from vacation, I will see how to improve the cooling. I think I will just fit and secure an aluminium or copper bar between the heatsink and bottom plate.
A small update on the listening experience. I somehow got used to the small power amp and overall I like the final result. I once switched back to the tube amp, but after a day I returned to the DCG3/Trends Audio TA 10 combo. I just like it more. Volume wise, there is plenty and more than enough for my listening habits, but I think some more power for headroom and heftier bottom end is required. Depending on how some other things will evolve, I will sooner or later get a more powerful amp based on purifi 1ET400A or 1ET7040SA.
On the headphone front no major changes yet, still using the AT M50x most of the time, and a second choice is the Truthear zero reds. Pretty good experience in general. This will be the next upgrade after the power amp.
Now the small board gives a more DIY flavour to the implementation. I have cleaned up the cabling a bit too. When back from vacation, I will see how to improve the cooling. I think I will just fit and secure an aluminium or copper bar between the heatsink and bottom plate.
A small update on the listening experience. I somehow got used to the small power amp and overall I like the final result. I once switched back to the tube amp, but after a day I returned to the DCG3/Trends Audio TA 10 combo. I just like it more. Volume wise, there is plenty and more than enough for my listening habits, but I think some more power for headroom and heftier bottom end is required. Depending on how some other things will evolve, I will sooner or later get a more powerful amp based on purifi 1ET400A or 1ET7040SA.
On the headphone front no major changes yet, still using the AT M50x most of the time, and a second choice is the Truthear zero reds. Pretty good experience in general. This will be the next upgrade after the power amp.
Yet another good future plan. Power to spare usually enhances the sense of control on loudspeakers.
Regarding headphones maybe something moderately priced like a Sennheiser HD560S, a safe change.
I am doomed for closed cans. (family etc). After a previous suggestion I was targeting the DCA aeon closed noire, but some recent reports over at ASR with problems regarding the left channel driver make me uneasy to proceed. At about 1k it's not easy to take the risk. AKG 371 was a contender too, but it has too many reports for problems with the headband keeping the cans in place. If the headphone expo in Athens is going to take place again this year, I will try to attend it to try some cans to see what fits my taste more.
Hello again,
I spent the whole Sunday listening to music through headphones on the DCG3. I must say it doesn't sound bad, but it also depends on what genre you listen to. Modern genres with deep bass such as Peak, Raw, Deep techno sound really fantastic. Although my hearing is not what it used to be, I can hear up to 14Khz, but I still think GainWire MK3 is better. GainWire MK3 has greater full-band dynamics. I note that this assessment is as I hear it and in connection with the Denon AH-D7200 headphone, it may be different in connection with other headphones.
Now my goal is to build new VRDN power supplies for GainWire as well as GainWire on new boards + SSR3 protection, and there will be another test.
I spent the whole Sunday listening to music through headphones on the DCG3. I must say it doesn't sound bad, but it also depends on what genre you listen to. Modern genres with deep bass such as Peak, Raw, Deep techno sound really fantastic. Although my hearing is not what it used to be, I can hear up to 14Khz, but I still think GainWire MK3 is better. GainWire MK3 has greater full-band dynamics. I note that this assessment is as I hear it and in connection with the Denon AH-D7200 headphone, it may be different in connection with other headphones.
Now my goal is to build new VRDN power supplies for GainWire as well as GainWire on new boards + SSR3 protection, and there will be another test.
You should have tried to feed with UltraBib,but it's too late, you already sold it🙂
Since he had an on hand match to his liking for his Denon closed back cans with his other HP amp why bother trying supplies. I would rather not either.
Who got it got a bargain BTW. It is a clean practically unused built without errors and reworks. It may match better on another task though. Line level for a strong power amp and speakers or other cans use, probably open back, who knows. Aune AR5000, Sennheiser 560S,600,6XX,490 pro, Beyer 900 pro X, etc.
Who got it got a bargain BTW. It is a clean practically unused built without errors and reworks. It may match better on another task though. Line level for a strong power amp and speakers or other cans use, probably open back, who knows. Aune AR5000, Sennheiser 560S,600,6XX,490 pro, Beyer 900 pro X, etc.
Hi Salas,
By contrast, DCG3 has earned a permanent place in my system and this doesn't seem to change. I have it running flawlessly all these years in a very basic form but now it's time to add volume control. I know it has been answered many times but there is always a new question on this. I need to remind you that my built is a double DCG3 -four channels for balanced stereo- and each input has a fixed 50k resistor to ground, nothing else. Now I would like to add a stepped resistor attenuator, between "hot" and "cold", one gang per stereo channel. And the question is: Like it has been explained for typical SE application, are there also any limits in the values of the attenuator in a case like mine? And should I change the 50k resistors as well?
By contrast, DCG3 has earned a permanent place in my system and this doesn't seem to change. I have it running flawlessly all these years in a very basic form but now it's time to add volume control. I know it has been answered many times but there is always a new question on this. I need to remind you that my built is a double DCG3 -four channels for balanced stereo- and each input has a fixed 50k resistor to ground, nothing else. Now I would like to add a stepped resistor attenuator, between "hot" and "cold", one gang per stereo channel. And the question is: Like it has been explained for typical SE application, are there also any limits in the values of the attenuator in a case like mine? And should I change the 50k resistors as well?
Hi, you need four gang 50k pot. One gang for each phase. And no input termination resistor, if you still got R2. Cheap 4 pole 24 step switch example