For any wooodworking gurus out there - I need a tip on what to do with Jasper circle jig if one cuts all the way through and has a perfectly cut hole that is 1/16in diameter too small! Rather than kluge my way to screw on a poorly aligned center pin block, is there a router bit that uses a bearing to take off a small bit of material on a rebate? Using the existing edge rather than a center pin and circle jig. My holes for the passive radiators are, guess what, 1/16in to small and won't fit. 
For any wooodworking gurus out there - I need a tip on what to do with Jasper circle jig if one cuts all the way through and has a perfectly cut hole that is 1/16in diameter too small! Rather than kluge my way to screw on a poorly aligned center pin block, is there a router bit that uses a bearing to take off a small bit of material on a rebate? Using the existing edge rather than a center pin and circle jig. My holes for the passive radiators are, guess what, 1/16in to small and won't fit.
This isn't terribly helpful advice, especially after the fact. What I like to do when marking a center to put the pin for a circle jig is mark the vertical and horizontal lines well outside of what I plan to cut. More than, oh a few dozen times, I've needed to increase the cutout size, and the only way to do so accurately is by screwing a center-block down and using the lines to mark the center spot again.
Some, if not most router bits that have bearings, like a flush trim or similar, have removable bearings. You may be able to find a smaller bearing to use to create the rebat affect. If you do this method, I would only cut ~1/2 the depth from one side, then flip the baffle over and cut the other half from that side with the same router bit, only this time with it's original, flush trim bearing. That way it evens up the 'lip', and provides you with a consistently larger opening.
Maybe something like this would accomplish it:
https://amzn.com/B000GYBXN8
I swear I've seen different size bearing kits you can buy for flush trim, or similar bits.
EDIT:
Something similar to this bit perhaps?
https://amzn.com/B00004T7FE
https://amzn.com/B000GYBXN8
I swear I've seen different size bearing kits you can buy for flush trim, or similar bits.
EDIT:
Something similar to this bit perhaps?
https://amzn.com/B00004T7FE
You could cut the correct sized hole on another board, clamp it to your baffle, and use a template bit with a short cutter height and bearing beneath like these: http://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/trimming-router-bits/dado-clean-out-router-bits.html
Or you can use a rasp and spend a half hour going in circles. Your forearms will love you.
Or you can use a rasp and spend a half hour going in circles. Your forearms will love you.
Hello X,
If I properly understand your question, you have not only gone all the way through the front baffle -instead of 8-10mm deep or so- , but to make things worse the cut-out is too small.
Could you confirm I properly understood your question? In that case I have some simple solutions for you.
Regards,
Eelco
If I properly understand your question, you have not only gone all the way through the front baffle -instead of 8-10mm deep or so- , but to make things worse the cut-out is too small.
Could you confirm I properly understood your question? In that case I have some simple solutions for you.
Regards,
Eelco
I have a 4mm deep rebate (countersink) for flush mounting the bezel of the passive radiator on the rear baffle. Front bafflenis perfect (still)
So the rebate is too small and a rasp will not work. I think securing a center block and making a new center hole is probably best. With trial an error and string and a pin, I can probably get close enough. It's only the not visible backside so not a huge cosmetic issue.
Thanks for all the suggestions though.
Hello X, How I have done this many times is as follows.
Make a circle in approx 10 mm MDF which is about 0.7"/20mm larger than the hole you made.
Make 4-6 openings in your circle to allow for fasteners during the glueing-to-the-inside-of-the-back-baffle. Cut the circle in 2 halfs, indicate the opening with a pencil to be able to properly adjust the 2 half circles at the glueing.
Glue half circles and manoeuvre them to the inside of the baffle. Clamp & adjust with fasteners to inside of baffle. Let glue (waterbased PVA/PVC) dry, and remove any excess glue with a wet sponge. The clamp has one side on the existing baffle and the other side on the halve circles. Adjust them so the perfectly connect.
Only if you make openings in the half circles you can get the clamps/fasteners at the back/inside of the half circles.
After this contraption is firmly glued to the baffle, you now have a hold for both your Jasper Jig (BTW: You need an extra height adjustment block in the middle of the now rejoint circle.
Plus: You now also have a base for glueing a small circle of MDF, with an outside dia of your current back baffle hole, and with an inside diameter corresponding to the correct mounting ABR hole.
You can then start all over again as if nothing went wrong with the Jig to make the correct rebate. The glueing seam between the original cutout and the new, somewhat smaller cutout will be invisible, because it will be covered by the ABR flange.
Only requirement is the filling circle must of the same thickness as the baffle, otherwise this little trick will not work.
Done it many times in repurposing existing enclosures or to correct stoopid mistakes.
Good luck
Eelco.
Make a circle in approx 10 mm MDF which is about 0.7"/20mm larger than the hole you made.
Make 4-6 openings in your circle to allow for fasteners during the glueing-to-the-inside-of-the-back-baffle. Cut the circle in 2 halfs, indicate the opening with a pencil to be able to properly adjust the 2 half circles at the glueing.
Glue half circles and manoeuvre them to the inside of the baffle. Clamp & adjust with fasteners to inside of baffle. Let glue (waterbased PVA/PVC) dry, and remove any excess glue with a wet sponge. The clamp has one side on the existing baffle and the other side on the halve circles. Adjust them so the perfectly connect.
Only if you make openings in the half circles you can get the clamps/fasteners at the back/inside of the half circles.
After this contraption is firmly glued to the baffle, you now have a hold for both your Jasper Jig (BTW: You need an extra height adjustment block in the middle of the now rejoint circle.
Plus: You now also have a base for glueing a small circle of MDF, with an outside dia of your current back baffle hole, and with an inside diameter corresponding to the correct mounting ABR hole.
You can then start all over again as if nothing went wrong with the Jig to make the correct rebate. The glueing seam between the original cutout and the new, somewhat smaller cutout will be invisible, because it will be covered by the ABR flange.
Only requirement is the filling circle must of the same thickness as the baffle, otherwise this little trick will not work.
Done it many times in repurposing existing enclosures or to correct stoopid mistakes.
Good luck
Eelco.
Thanks for the tip. I still don't understand why it has to be two half circles that are glued to the back? Also, would these half circles be cut away as part of sacrificial backing and if so, what about remaining sections still glued on? Would it not be better to screw temporary backing in place?
I was thinking why even a circle - just a rectangular piece glued to back to form basic for new centering plug (elevated to be flush with main workpiece).
I generally use a rectangular shaped piece. If you have the center lines(vert/horiz) on the baffle already, it's easy to translate them over with a straight edge.
It does not necessarily have to be circles, square are fine too. They have to be cut in halves, because otherwise you never manage to get this oversized thingie inside the box through the ABR cut-out. I found circles easier than squares to get to the inside of the box.
Mind you, this inside piece is only there to support the refit sections ( half an inch wide or so) of the baffle that you accidently removed and to offer guidance for the Jasper Jig.
Mind you, this inside piece is only there to support the refit sections ( half an inch wide or so) of the baffle that you accidently removed and to offer guidance for the Jasper Jig.
You could use a thin piece of wood behind the baffle, trace the inner hole cutout with pencil and then use that to find the exact centre mark and drill for the centre pin, then attach a bigger block of wood the same thickness as the baffle drill through where you marked the centre, align with the pencil mark clamp and redo the circle.
This basically outlines the approach I was going to take. Thanks to everyone for all their inputs and tips. It seems I am not the only one to make this kind of a stupid mistake.
Delays are frustrating X, I am still awaiting some special wide button topped 6mm bolts and bolt inserts to use with the rubber washers for my build. I have just discovered that the store I ordered the planter from is out of stock - so will be a month before I can start on the second one sphere....
Most frustrating!
Most frustrating!