thanks, your right on the 6 each, as each channel has out transistors, 6 of each beginning with q2... , if your referring to the removal of the components from the MEHSA boards, i have removed 6 already and they have came off pretty easy with my handy mini torch.
i just wanted to thank you for all your help, you took me from super noob, somewhat knowing what im doing now.
i will get all the parts put in when they come, and let you know what happens.
thanks
i will get all the parts put in when they come, and let you know what happens.
thanks
alright, back again, replaced all mosfets on channel 2, replace 2 smd resitors(20r0) that tested out of tolerance, replaced 16 .1 ohm resistors with new, and tested the reused ones, and used only 8 used ones which did test in tolerance.
amp powers up fine, no excessive current draw, but i am getting distortion from channel one, and its cutting in and out.
channel 2 has clean sound, but also cuts in and out.
dunno what to do.
thanks
amp powers up fine, no excessive current draw, but i am getting distortion from channel one, and its cutting in and out.
channel 2 has clean sound, but also cuts in and out.
dunno what to do.
thanks
no, unfortunately something like that is out of my budget.
what could be something that could cause this?
bad resistor? a short somewhere?
what could be something that could cause this?
bad resistor? a short somewhere?
i might ad also , that while fixing the amp i came across the B+ terminal, and found it was super loose with next no no solder on its pad, i soldered it best i could as the block kept sucking the head from my soldering iron.
the amp didn't cut out before with the problem of the loose power terminal, but do u think this may be an issue now/
i also find it odd that both channels cut out. one is more distorted than the other.
i will take a better look at the terminals though.
the amp didn't cut out before with the problem of the loose power terminal, but do u think this may be an issue now/
i also find it odd that both channels cut out. one is more distorted than the other.
i will take a better look at the terminals though.
That could be a problem. These terminals can be very difficult to solder. There's a plating on them that deteriorates when they overheat when there's a bad connection. Even if you can get enough heat, it may be difficult to get solder to stick to the pins. A new terminal block is (was?) available from Rockford. Now you'll likely have to buy it from PacParts if you can't solder the one you have.
To heat it, you'll have to use the butane torch. Heat it ONLY from the component side of the board. Do NOT heat it with the torch from the solder side of the board. Using the torch and your soldering iron, you should be able to get it hot enough to solder the pins.
You have to be VERY careful when doing this. Make sure that everything is completely stable. If something shifts and the terminal block slips out of the board do NOT try to grab it (normal reflex). Let it fall. I generally drill and tap them to put a screw in to hold them but that requires a bit more effort. See attached.
Was it the channel with the 1000 series parts or the channel with the 2000 series parts that you repaired?
Are you sure it's the channel you repaired that's distorted?
To heat it, you'll have to use the butane torch. Heat it ONLY from the component side of the board. Do NOT heat it with the torch from the solder side of the board. Using the torch and your soldering iron, you should be able to get it hot enough to solder the pins.
You have to be VERY careful when doing this. Make sure that everything is completely stable. If something shifts and the terminal block slips out of the board do NOT try to grab it (normal reflex). Let it fall. I generally drill and tap them to put a screw in to hold them but that requires a bit more effort. See attached.
Was it the channel with the 1000 series parts or the channel with the 2000 series parts that you repaired?
Are you sure it's the channel you repaired that's distorted?
Attachments
i dont quite understand the question. What i repaired was all mosfets starting with q2. that would be 6 28n15's, and six 36p15's. I am assuming this is channel two, for 2 reasons, one is they start with q2 instead of q1, and they are on the same side of which the second channel is located as far as the screw terminals go.
i will try and better solder the terminal, its not loose anymore, but in no way soldered like the picture.
i didn't have any distortion or cutting out before the blown mosfets, even with the power block being loose.
also both channels cut out, only one distorts.
thanks
Power up the amp and remove D2001, 2003, 2004 and 2005, one at a time. Check the audio after removing each one. Does the amp produce clean audio from that channel after removing those?
should i do this for both channels?
both channels do more of what i would say is no sound at all, then suddenly a burp for a few seconds, then no sound again.
1 channel makes the sound it does clean
and one really distorted.
also does this bridged as well
both channels do more of what i would say is no sound at all, then suddenly a burp for a few seconds, then no sound again.
1 channel makes the sound it does clean
and one really distorted.
also does this bridged as well
When it has sound then it doesnt have sound does any of the led's light up Like a yellow one for thermal protection or over current?
Does the amp continue to go into protect with no speakers and no input signal?
The parts I listed are in only one channel.
The parts I listed are in only one channel.
actually it doesn't go into protect AT ALL. i get power light steadily the whole time.
and yes i understand the parts you listed are for channel 2. but what makes me weary is BOTH channels are acting up. they make sound for about 2 seconds then go back off.
im not sure if i screwed up soldering somewhere, i can double check.
does the issue seam to be from the output side? not he power side?
and yes i understand the parts you listed are for channel 2. but what makes me weary is BOTH channels are acting up. they make sound for about 2 seconds then go back off.
im not sure if i screwed up soldering somewhere, i can double check.
does the issue seam to be from the output side? not he power side?
The defective channel could be causing both channels to mute.
Have you tried turning the bias pots fully counter-clockwise in the repaired channel to see if the amp would stay on?
Have you tried turning the bias pots fully counter-clockwise in the repaired channel to see if the amp would stay on?
alright went and tested on an 8 ohm load of 2 six by nines on channel one.
as soon as power was applied, speakers started smoking, even without music playing.
now i get a "blinking" protect light.
with what seems light excessive current draw, lights in vehicle dim when protect light blinks.
as soon as power was applied, speakers started smoking, even without music playing.
now i get a "blinking" protect light.
with what seems light excessive current draw, lights in vehicle dim when protect light blinks.
also when first turned on with the 8 ohm load speakers moved then started smoking, with gain turned all the way down.
i am testing with the 250 amp fuse it comes with in place.
when first powered up with 15 amp fuse yesterday it blew it. figured it was because amp was so big it pulled more than 15 amps just idling.
so upgraded to 30 amp fuse, and it did not blow.
now i dont get ANY sound from amp at all, just smoking 6x9's.
can try on my fi q 15" sub but dont want to sacrifice it.
i am testing with the 250 amp fuse it comes with in place.
when first powered up with 15 amp fuse yesterday it blew it. figured it was because amp was so big it pulled more than 15 amps just idling.
so upgraded to 30 amp fuse, and it did not blow.
now i dont get ANY sound from amp at all, just smoking 6x9's.
can try on my fi q 15" sub but dont want to sacrifice it.
alright, tested with no input signal, or speakers attached at all.
amp stayed on for about 2 minutes, then tried to kick into protect, when it did 30 amp fuse blew.
amp stayed on for about 2 minutes, then tried to kick into protect, when it did 30 amp fuse blew.
It sounds like you may have a bad connection on the gates of one of the outputs.
What did you do between the time when it was producing distorted audio and the time when it started smoking speakers?
The amp should have powered up via a 15 amp fuse.
What did you do between the time when it was producing distorted audio and the time when it started smoking speakers?
The amp should have powered up via a 15 amp fuse.
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