The amp has the protect light on and it flashes blue once every second or so and the amps bd ps card clicks......with the light..
Your confusing me I have 12v at b+ and Remote and grounded. Like I'm powering it.but I have 0 v between source and gate but when it flashes blue for a brief second it reads .02v then it cuts power..or are we not on the same page? Sorry and thank you
Connect only remote and ground (no B+).
Now measure the DC voltage across the gate and source. What voltage do you have?
Did you get your scope up and running?
Now measure the DC voltage across the gate and source. What voltage do you have?
Did you get your scope up and running?
Not 100percent on the scope being right though it could just be me. I only have a x10 probe and maybe I need to adjust the pot on it..
Yes sir
I did replace the 317 with the rest of the rectifiers and ps fets all qt the same time just to find out none of that was the problem
As the amp is now, if you connect the B+ (along with remote and ground) are you saying that the amp goes into protect?
What are you using for a 12v power supply to power the amp?
Are any of the 4 rectifiers in the amp as of now?
What are you using for a 12v power supply to power the amp?
Are any of the 4 rectifiers in the amp as of now?
It goes into protect yes and no rectifiers are in ..all 4 removed...share with me is that odd? And just a 12v 4a ps
A 4 amp power supply may not be enough.
It's odd for most amps to go into protect when there is no rail voltage available (rectifiers out of the circuit). The exception is where there isn't enough current capacity from the 12v power supply and the amp is going into low-voltage protection.
Do you have another 12v supply that you could use?
It's odd for most amps to go into protect when there is no rail voltage available (rectifiers out of the circuit). The exception is where there isn't enough current capacity from the 12v power supply and the amp is going into low-voltage protection.
Do you have another 12v supply that you could use?
A car starting battery?
Is it in good enough condition to start a car (not a junker that's been taken out of service) and charged?
You'll need to insert a 15 amp fuse in the B+ line to help protect the amplifier if a mistake is made.
Is it in good enough condition to start a car (not a junker that's been taken out of service) and charged?
You'll need to insert a 15 amp fuse in the B+ line to help protect the amplifier if a mistake is made.
What do you use to charge the battery?
Could the charger be connected to the battery to boost the current capacity?
Can the battery handle a surge without having a sharp dip in voltage?
Could the charger be connected to the battery to boost the current capacity?
Can the battery handle a surge without having a sharp dip in voltage?
So as
Yes when it's charged but it's not I only have a slow charger right now I need to order some fets for my good charger so my battery is gonna take a lil while to charge it dropped down to 10v when trying to power so it seems like there is a lot of current before going into protect the battery I'm using is pretty powerful. 5000mah 75c lipo shouldn't drop like it did