Karsten replied.
He indicated English isn't his strength.
He's going to get back to me with shipping costs.
Thanks F.
The Scanspeaks are nice, but a little to expensive for the overall cost of the project.
Currently I can get the Peerless Tweeters for 1/3 the price and are genuine 6 ohm impedance.
I really appreciate your suggestion.
It helps me with more options.
What gap would you allow when buying a voice coil/membrane?
May I ask exactly what tests you have carried out on the tweeters to determine they are "dead"?
Did you get a DC resistance reading of around 4 ohm, or did they read open circuit?
If they read around 4 ohm, the voice coils may simply be gummed up by dried out ferrofluid, something that can be rectified: https://speakerrepairshop.nl/en/instructions/replace-ferrofluid-in-tweeter/c-36
Regarding the possibility of having to replace a voice coil, the exact requirements will be revealed if you dismantle a tweeter.
P.S. How important are these speakers to you? Do you just want to get them "up and running" or must their response remain faithful to the original?
Hi Galu.
Placed ear over the tweeters when using the speakers.
I then performed a 1.5v battery test across the terminals for both tweeters.
No sound or movement.
Tested the battery across a working tweeter to eliminate battery issue.
I did spend some time with these speakers.
Poly caps, air core inductors, replacement resistors, and tweaked the crossover as instructed.
I'm just trying to save them from the tip.
I think they're of worthwhile quality and were pricey in their time.
Having said that I don't want to over capitalize.
I'm willing to slice 3mm off the north and south side of a pair of D27TG35-06's to fit.
Your suggestion to service the existing tweeters is worthwhile pursuing.
I'll study your repair shop link.
The examples I have differ in that they have a very thin circular covering over the wave guide and presumably covering the inner screws.
This thin inner wave guide cover also has a "TDL Electronics" sticker on the lower edge.
It appears to be glued down and can only be lifted by damaging it.
I think this thin cover and decal differentiate the TDL tweeters from the free market versions.
When I press down on it I can see the 3 circular screw hole depressions.
I could just rip it off as I have nothing to lose?
Before you do that please answer to my earlier question. Do the tweeters give a DC resistance reading of around 4 ohm, or do they read open circuit?
At least a domestic oven can't exceed the Curie temperature of the ceramic magnet (450 ℃) at which it will lose its magnetic properties!
Just joshing, Guerilla!
The judicious use of a heat gun/hair dryer may be preferable to sticking your tweets in the oven.
My suggestion was to check if the ferrofluid (if fitted) had dried up.
This is irrelevant if the voice coils are open circuit.
That would be the most straightforward solution. No need to locate replacement voice coils for the originals or to replace ferrofluid.
My UK oven's lowest control knob setting is gas mark ¼ (110 ℃).
Your knob may differ!