Karsten replied.Thanks, your information overlapped with my edit. I had managed to find the email address!
He indicated English isn't his strength.
He's going to get back to me with shipping costs.
Thanks F.If the cad-audio link doesn't pan out. You might be able to use a Scanspeak D2010 19mm dome. The OD of the faceplate is 3mm wider, so you need to widen the rabate a little. Otherwise, the mounting hole is the same, the sensitivity is the same. The Scanspeak has a lower resonance frequency, so I'm unsure if you need to modify the filter, depending on the TDL design using the acoustic rolloff in the design.
The Scanspeaks are nice, but a little to expensive for the overall cost of the project.
Currently I can get the Peerless Tweeters for 1/3 the price and are genuine 6 ohm impedance.
I really appreciate your suggestion.
It helps me with more options. 👍
Sadly we can't do business, but hopefully your shipping agents might develop a belt and road to Australia in the future.its not my native tongue but i think i understand most of it 😉
Your store has cool items.
Could the dome and coil be moved from D27TG to the D20DT? If lucky you can maybe find some 19mm repair kits on AliExpress for a couple of pounds. Maybe even some with the same gloss as the original. I have some Technics tweeters, that are of. First ill see if there's dry oil in them. Next I'll logo for replacement diaphragms.
Cheers!
What gap would you allow when buying a voice coil/membrane?
I haven't tried it yet sorry, So you have to ask an expert, but its not expensive to have a go. I have Zomax compression drivers that I want to renovate with 44,1 mm doomes, but that project is in the future.
I didn't properly test the tweeters only finding out later that they are both dead.
May I ask exactly what tests you have carried out on the tweeters to determine they are "dead"?
Did you get a DC resistance reading of around 4 ohm, or did they read open circuit?
If they read around 4 ohm, the voice coils may simply be gummed up by dried out ferrofluid, something that can be rectified: https://speakerrepairshop.nl/en/instructions/replace-ferrofluid-in-tweeter/c-36
Regarding the possibility of having to replace a voice coil, the exact requirements will be revealed if you dismantle a tweeter.
P.S. How important are these speakers to you? Do you just want to get them "up and running" or must their response remain faithful to the original?
Hi Galu.May I ask exactly what tests you have carried out on the tweeters to determine they are "dead"?
Did you get a DC resistance reading of around 4 ohm, or did they read open circuit?
If they read around 4 ohm, the voice coils may simply be gummed up by dried out ferrofluid, something that can be rectified: https://speakerrepairshop.nl/en/instructions/replace-ferrofluid-in-tweeter/c-36
Regarding the possibility of having to replace a voice coil, the exact requirements will be revealed if you dismantle a tweeter.
P.S. How important are these speakers to you? Do you just want to get them "up and running" or must their response remain faithful to the original?
Placed ear over the tweeters when using the speakers.
I then performed a 1.5v battery test across the terminals for both tweeters.
No sound or movement.
Tested the battery across a working tweeter to eliminate battery issue.
I did spend some time with these speakers.
Poly caps, air core inductors, replacement resistors, and tweaked the crossover as instructed.
I'm just trying to save them from the tip.
I think they're of worthwhile quality and were pricey in their time.
Having said that I don't want to over capitalize.
I'm willing to slice 3mm off the north and south side of a pair of D27TG35-06's to fit.
Your suggestion to service the existing tweeters is worthwhile pursuing.
I'll study your repair shop link.
The examples I have differ in that they have a very thin circular covering over the wave guide and presumably covering the inner screws.View attachment 1295592
EDIT: That replacement my not fit as it has a larger face plate diameter so measure carefully.
This thin inner wave guide cover also has a "TDL Electronics" sticker on the lower edge.
It appears to be glued down and can only be lifted by damaging it.
I think this thin cover and decal differentiate the TDL tweeters from the free market versions.
When I press down on it I can see the 3 circular screw hole depressions.
I could just rip it off as I have nothing to lose?
Maybe put it in the oven to loosen glue? I dont dare to suggest temperature though. There must be many tutorials for fixing tweeters out there.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I could just rip it off as I have nothing to lose?
Before you do that please answer to my earlier question. Do the tweeters give a DC resistance reading of around 4 ohm, or do they read open circuit?
Maybe put it in the oven to loosen glue? I dont dare to suggest temperature though.
At least a domestic oven can't exceed the Curie temperature of the ceramic magnet (450 ℃) at which it will lose its magnetic properties!
Just joshing, Guerilla!

The judicious use of a heat gun/hair dryer may be preferable to sticking your tweets in the oven.
Your suggestion to service the existing tweeters is worthwhile pursuing.
My suggestion was to check if the ferrofluid (if fitted) had dried up.
This is irrelevant if the voice coils are open circuit.
I'm willing to slice 3mm off the north and south side of a pair of D27TG35-06's to fit.
That would be the most straightforward solution. No need to locate replacement voice coils for the originals or to replace ferrofluid.
About oven I was thinking 50° celsius should be safe...
My UK oven's lowest control knob setting is gas mark ¼ (110 ℃).
Your knob may differ! 😊
Hey @CliffR52, did you end up buying the D27TG35-06s and cutting them down to fit? I'm working on restoring a pair of RTL1s with the exact same issue, guess it was common to blow out this specific tweeter :/
And @km any shot you could ship to the USA? I sent an email to postmaster@cad-audio.dk but wasn't sure if that was the best way to get ahold of y'all.
And @km any shot you could ship to the USA? I sent an email to postmaster@cad-audio.dk but wasn't sure if that was the best way to get ahold of y'all.
Hi C.Hey @CliffR52, did you end up buying the D27TG35-06s and cutting them down to fit? I'm working on restoring a pair of RTL1s with the exact same issue, guess it was common to blow out this specific tweeter :/
Sorry for late response.
I'm in a hole time resource wise and have had to put on hold any hifi tinkering until I get on top of my situation.
I purchased the D27TG35-06s which I'm certain will compliment the RTL1s.
Galu is a magician when it comes to speaker electronics.
Initially I thought of slicing the tweeters to fit, but after some thinking I'm going to attempt an adjustment on the woofer drivers positioning on the baffle.
If they're fitted with wood screws I might get the 3mm that I need.
Good luck with your mod.
Cliff
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