But not any Nichicon or Panasonic !
Panasonic : please choose FC and not the FM
Nichicon : please choose KA or KG
I mean for reservoir caps.... another caps here and there are.... a different story !
I don't understand why they could have less concistency in time than the actual genuine ones of the pcb... if you don't know about the reference of the actual caps ! E.G. Samwa are not known to be premium parts ! But can be populated here for some reason... after a reg à la 78xx or LT1086 for good reasons !
But is it usefull to recap all the player ? I really it doesn't need but 5 caps : the 3 C36/c44/45 and a little bypass // for C47/48 !
Bah, not my money, but 100 euros is cheap to be happy 🙂 !
Panasonic : please choose FC and not the FM
Nichicon : please choose KA or KG
I mean for reservoir caps.... another caps here and there are.... a different story !
I don't understand why they could have less concistency in time than the actual genuine ones of the pcb... if you don't know about the reference of the actual caps ! E.G. Samwa are not known to be premium parts ! But can be populated here for some reason... after a reg à la 78xx or LT1086 for good reasons !
But is it usefull to recap all the player ? I really it doesn't need but 5 caps : the 3 C36/c44/45 and a little bypass // for C47/48 !
Bah, not my money, but 100 euros is cheap to be happy 🙂 !
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Notice than Panasonic FR serie has long life 10 000 hours on the datasheet; but as the FM serie I personnaly don't like them as a smoothing cap (because very low ESR ? I don't know ! ) and prefer the FC serie. The same for the second position in a Pi : FM are the last, most of the time FC give very better results !
Lelon is not known to be a very good brand but on my Nad 2100 Power amp, there are 2 105°c lelon caps as smoothing cap (first caps of a Pi supply of the simple but good embeded preamp) and I never sucess to find a better cap here in relation to the whole circuit and final sound result ! I believe it was just good because solid and a poor ESR, the second section of the Pi had new Silmic I instead Nichicon iirc for the best while Silmic II were bad after listening tests ! So this is a second system but this Lelon has now 20 years old ! Works great !
So swapping all a pcb with a same reference is risky ! I mean for th elistening result imho !
Lelon is not known to be a very good brand but on my Nad 2100 Power amp, there are 2 105°c lelon caps as smoothing cap (first caps of a Pi supply of the simple but good embeded preamp) and I never sucess to find a better cap here in relation to the whole circuit and final sound result ! I believe it was just good because solid and a poor ESR, the second section of the Pi had new Silmic I instead Nichicon iirc for the best while Silmic II were bad after listening tests ! So this is a second system but this Lelon has now 20 years old ! Works great !
So swapping all a pcb with a same reference is risky ! I mean for th elistening result imho !
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I'm sure you right on that and I don't really know what those in Abtr's picture will be. For €80 euro for the mod they can't be that expensive.
Lol, that 1F cap could be a bit scary. And we were always taught that a 1F cap 'would be as big as a house'.
Totally of topic : do you see the Tesla brand whih makes electric car just launched in the US some huge battery for home/house ? Not so expensive : around 3 000 usd ! Allow you to charge them the night when electricity cost is lower or with solar celluls ??? Made for houses and tommorow for small business units !
I'm sure than some audiophile lurked at it 🙂 But what about the very high ESR in hifi when the "first cap" has a bad ESR ?
Maybe Tesla uses Vishays caps ! AHAHA I remember the genuine great Tesla engineer from Serbia tryed to launch at the end of his life in USA: electromagnetic electricity sent into the airs for the towns with strange towers ! Don't know if it stayed only on the paper or if some towers were constructed before he passed away!
To go again with the topic : as far as a supply is low noise with good ripple rejection : is it good enough ? Or does a good cap with very low ESR should have always a faster transcient ?
From experience, I find the lowest esr is not equal all the time to the best sound ! Oscillations ?
I'm sure than some audiophile lurked at it 🙂 But what about the very high ESR in hifi when the "first cap" has a bad ESR ?
Maybe Tesla uses Vishays caps ! AHAHA I remember the genuine great Tesla engineer from Serbia tryed to launch at the end of his life in USA: electromagnetic electricity sent into the airs for the towns with strange towers ! Don't know if it stayed only on the paper or if some towers were constructed before he passed away!
To go again with the topic : as far as a supply is low noise with good ripple rejection : is it good enough ? Or does a good cap with very low ESR should have always a faster transcient ?
From experience, I find the lowest esr is not equal all the time to the best sound ! Oscillations ?
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Well, I’m sure the original circuits weren’t designed with particular caps in mind. Maybe later some trial and error modifications might have introduced a dependency on particular caps such as C38, which is spec’d 100uF 25V ZA RUBYCON, although it is actually 10uF 50V in my Alpha 9..
The guy seems to know what he’s doing. Only very positive reviews (all on Dutch websites) and he has seen the link I provided in the OP, so he has a pretty good idea of what he’s up against. Yet he offers to recap the player for only €130. That cannot be much more than an hour work. Therefore, I think he will not replace all (electrolytic) caps.
He didn’t really answer my question about the Ultracaps, but he says he can simply undo the mod if I don’t like it and I’ll get my money back. I asked him again how exactly the Ultracaps are applied but he didn’t yet reply. Apparently he is quite busy.
From Dutch websites I gathered that he places 2 Ultracaps at the main power supply but I’m not sure how or where exactly.. And the same mod can be done with pre-amps, power-amps, etc..
Yes, it made the news here and yes, I know the background about the Tesla Towers. Scary stuff. Batteries would be no good for us an all electric household as we pull around 14 to 18kWh during off peak rates for storage heating etc.
With caps and filtering it always makes sense to know what you are trying to improve. Low ESR caps can cause problems by causing low level ringing if the conditions are right. These days I tend to go for low ESR electrolytics in series with a 1 ohm for small signal circuitry bypassing, perhaps with a 0.1uf film across the rails but I always back things like that up by looking with a 100Mhz scope to see what is really there.
With caps and filtering it always makes sense to know what you are trying to improve. Low ESR caps can cause problems by causing low level ringing if the conditions are right. These days I tend to go for low ESR electrolytics in series with a 1 ohm for small signal circuitry bypassing, perhaps with a 0.1uf film across the rails but I always back things like that up by looking with a 100Mhz scope to see what is really there.
Yes!
More and more having many many caps, I test and most of the time, even the 0.1 uF is avoided ! Or if I keep one it is for a specific reason ! Take 10 different 0.1 uF Mkt from different model and brand with the same voltage and pitch between leads : they all give a different sounding signature on each pcb ! I have them all !
I believe scopes doesn't tell all the whole truth.
I believe the op has his own idea which is not made on a logical substrate and even less with the experience of people here !
So.... sometimes you have to pay to learn !
No big stakes here ! The player will not sound better but different (because as said it asks for a serious work : change by change, cap by cap) and finally because those famous 3 caps, the player would be safe again... if it was ever in danger, which I don't believe !
I surmise the op will like the result for reasons we know. (because from the xix° century some understood money is more important than words !)
More and more having many many caps, I test and most of the time, even the 0.1 uF is avoided ! Or if I keep one it is for a specific reason ! Take 10 different 0.1 uF Mkt from different model and brand with the same voltage and pitch between leads : they all give a different sounding signature on each pcb ! I have them all !
I believe scopes doesn't tell all the whole truth.
I believe the op has his own idea which is not made on a logical substrate and even less with the experience of people here !
So.... sometimes you have to pay to learn !
No big stakes here ! The player will not sound better but different (because as said it asks for a serious work : change by change, cap by cap) and finally because those famous 3 caps, the player would be safe again... if it was ever in danger, which I don't believe !
I surmise the op will like the result for reasons we know. (because from the xix° century some understood money is more important than words !)
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Okay Eldam, I will (first) replace the 3 main reservoir caps of the Alpha9 myself, and then we’ll see how it sounds..
... then listen to ! Keep or come back if worst !
And after don't forgett to bypass c47/48.... being the last part of the Pi filter, it will be more important on the sound result ! But yes : step by step is the idea !
First C36 , then listen to ! After C44 & 45 then listen to ! Then // C47/48 with the values and models we spoke above but keeping the main original C47/48... then listen to !
Etc ! Each time you feel it's better : keep it ! If worst come back !
With Farnell and 35 euros, source what you need : desoldering bread & pump, caps in Panasonic and Nichicon range talked above in the value you need to swap the genuine ones and the bypass ones for c47/48....
Read he datasheet for size case, diameter of the leads, pitch between leads...
A little work, result is at this price !
And after don't forgett to bypass c47/48.... being the last part of the Pi filter, it will be more important on the sound result ! But yes : step by step is the idea !
First C36 , then listen to ! After C44 & 45 then listen to ! Then // C47/48 with the values and models we spoke above but keeping the main original C47/48... then listen to !
Etc ! Each time you feel it's better : keep it ! If worst come back !
With Farnell and 35 euros, source what you need : desoldering bread & pump, caps in Panasonic and Nichicon range talked above in the value you need to swap the genuine ones and the bypass ones for c47/48....
Read he datasheet for size case, diameter of the leads, pitch between leads...
A little work, result is at this price !
😎... less than 5 euros of parts ! You will have more fun to do it yourself and learn more things to do it step by step🙂 ! If bad 5 euros is few and easy to come back as not many parts !
Erata : I believe you should start just with bypassing c47/48 then listen to ! Come back with desoldering these 2 caps then change C36 (above procedure), etc !
Why ? Because there is something to learn to about an old cap in smoothing position as a first part of a Pi filtering : its ESR has became worst (so huge) because this is the most stressed part of a supply and here as you have an independant (partialy) reservoir cap after, it's not always bad thing as far as it doesn't brake. And here you will fully able to listen to what the bypass of reservoir caps (c47/48) brings here before swaping the main three caps for security !
Removing its after and then change C36 to secure it (then listen to)... and change C44/45 to secure it;: this will give you the final decision if those caps are pleasing to you ! As it's just 5 euros of parts, no regrets, keep it for an other device if non good in your Arcam and try something else (Nichicon, Elna, etc)...
It could be interessant to have your testimonial after this little work and listening tests : if you like it or the opposit and why !
After you can tweak the spidf output, etc, etc !
Erata : I believe you should start just with bypassing c47/48 then listen to ! Come back with desoldering these 2 caps then change C36 (above procedure), etc !
Why ? Because there is something to learn to about an old cap in smoothing position as a first part of a Pi filtering : its ESR has became worst (so huge) because this is the most stressed part of a supply and here as you have an independant (partialy) reservoir cap after, it's not always bad thing as far as it doesn't brake. And here you will fully able to listen to what the bypass of reservoir caps (c47/48) brings here before swaping the main three caps for security !
Removing its after and then change C36 to secure it (then listen to)... and change C44/45 to secure it;: this will give you the final decision if those caps are pleasing to you ! As it's just 5 euros of parts, no regrets, keep it for an other device if non good in your Arcam and try something else (Nichicon, Elna, etc)...
It could be interessant to have your testimonial after this little work and listening tests : if you like it or the opposit and why !
After you can tweak the spidf output, etc, etc !
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Yes, I see what you’re getting at. I’ll 'bypass' C47, C48 first and then again compare it to the CD23T..
Okay.. 🙂
Btw, I received no reply yet regarding the ultracaps question..
You got it ! It's important to have a non moving point as a reference !
CD23T is yours when having a doubt ! Because when it's bad, most of the time no doubt ! But when a tradeoff must be choosed, the reference helps !
Don't forgett there is relativity : it is setuped in relation to your whole system. And that's the interressant point when playing with caps. Sort of passive EQ which can influence both tonal color and tonal balance.
It can not make good a bad supply, filter, etc but it can make a jump, a higher step to a good one. The same (good enough) device with a good work on caps and the other with no work on it are two very different devices ! one boring the other one pleasant to listen to !
CD23T is yours when having a doubt ! Because when it's bad, most of the time no doubt ! But when a tradeoff must be choosed, the reference helps !
Don't forgett there is relativity : it is setuped in relation to your whole system. And that's the interressant point when playing with caps. Sort of passive EQ which can influence both tonal color and tonal balance.
It can not make good a bad supply, filter, etc but it can make a jump, a higher step to a good one. The same (good enough) device with a good work on caps and the other with no work on it are two very different devices ! one boring the other one pleasant to listen to !
Still waiting for my caps to arrive (sometime next week).
I received the following reply regarding my ultracaps query: The ultacaps will be used as an addition to the main power supply. That still doesn’t tell me exactly how the ultracaps will be used, but I can only imagine that 2 (or more) ultracaps in series will be placed in parallel with the main DC power supply, like this:
The ultracaps will then be charged by the main DC power supply and implement an additional, ultra fast, low impedance power source that stabilizes overall DC power..
I received the following reply regarding my ultracaps query: The ultacaps will be used as an addition to the main power supply. That still doesn’t tell me exactly how the ultracaps will be used, but I can only imagine that 2 (or more) ultracaps in series will be placed in parallel with the main DC power supply, like this:
The ultracaps will then be charged by the main DC power supply and implement an additional, ultra fast, low impedance power source that stabilizes overall DC power..
I believe if those ultracaps are avaliable for all you would find them on one of this distributor : Mouser, Digikey or Farnell !
Use the motor function to look for with ESR datas !
The one I linked was a huge one not the little of the amp you linked above in the infomercial website of the brand !
When putted in serie Volatge is x2 but capacitance is /2... and inductance falls in the abyss !
Use the motor function to look for with ESR datas !
The one I linked was a huge one not the little of the amp you linked above in the infomercial website of the brand !
When putted in serie Volatge is x2 but capacitance is /2... and inductance falls in the abyss !
Here’s a cheap ($6.33) small size (diameter 21.50mm, height 9.5mm) Panasonic (EEC-RF0H105N) supercap/ultracap of 1 Farad, 5.5V, ESR 20mOhm (@ 1kHz):
EEC-RF0H105N Panasonic Electronic Components | P17052-ND | DigiKey
EEC-RF0H105N Panasonic Electronic Components | P17052-ND | DigiKey
This is a normal backup cap ! ESR is 20 ohms...😀 not 20 m ohms !
So not an "ultra-cap" à la amp above but a super (farad) cap only !
So not an "ultra-cap" à la amp above but a super (farad) cap only !
Ah, I see. That must be an error in the specs then. How about this one (5F, 5.4V, 70mOhm@100Hz):
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PHV-5R4V505-R/283-4189-ND/3878063
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PHV-5R4V505-R/283-4189-ND/3878063