I tried all Philips codes listed in booklet that accompanied the "5-in-1" remote from RS. I have the booklet here at work but not the remote itself. The product number on booklet is 15-2115.
No specific "RC5" code is listed. I was wondering what the digits were for this device.
Some Philips codes partially worked; for example, 0269 worked the volume and selector, but power on/off for standby feature did not work. I'd be happy to try the RC5 numbers if someone can provide them.
Thanks, Robert
No specific "RC5" code is listed. I was wondering what the digits were for this device.
Some Philips codes partially worked; for example, 0269 worked the volume and selector, but power on/off for standby feature did not work. I'd be happy to try the RC5 numbers if someone can provide them.
Thanks, Robert
assembly manuals
The New new assembly manuals are ready.
APOX-2 assembly manual Version 1.4
and
APOX-IS1 assembly manual Version 1.1
apox home page
-Craig
The New new assembly manuals are ready.
APOX-2 assembly manual Version 1.4
and
APOX-IS1 assembly manual Version 1.1
apox home page
-Craig
Robert,
You probably found a small ommission in my RC5 handling. My remote would not generate power on/off with the Philips setting. I searched for the right values, but may have found bogus information. I will double check my source code for the on/off settings. You may need to try our download prcedure when I find a fix.
Dale
You probably found a small ommission in my RC5 handling. My remote would not generate power on/off with the Philips setting. I searched for the right values, but may have found bogus information. I will double check my source code for the on/off settings. You may need to try our download prcedure when I find a fix.
Dale
rljones said:
Hi Dale,
I'm in the same boat because I own a Sony Wega TV.
I own the RS 3-IN-ONE Pocket Remote, and I don't have
the manual. I'll look online later to try to find the Phillips
code.
Robert,
if we end up needing to do a download from the dipchip site to our Apox to fix this remote issue, it's a breeze! 😎
I tried it out last week, and all you need is a Male-Female
9-Pin Com port cable. What a cool feature!
-Vinnie
Vinnie,
Thanks, that's good to know; I'm pretty stupid when it comes to PCs and Window's stuff (I'm a Mac dweeb).
Robert
Thanks, that's good to know; I'm pretty stupid when it comes to PCs and Window's stuff (I'm a Mac dweeb).
Robert
The Sony/Philips settings might also address an earlier inquiry about how to use 2 APOX controllers; one for a preamp and a second used to control a CDpro player
Hi Guys,
I will also add an option to select which protocol to enable:
1) Sony
2) Philips
3) Both (default)
Dale
P.S. I do see that I have no support on the Philips for On/Off. It will be added when I figure out the code.
I will also add an option to select which protocol to enable:
1) Sony
2) Philips
3) Both (default)
Dale
P.S. I do see that I have no support on the Philips for On/Off. It will be added when I figure out the code.
When you use philips code for preamp, be prepared that it uses two addresses for (pre)amp control! I also had this problem when i switched from a programmable remote to a preprogrammed one.
I had to enable two system addresses in my preamp to get it working again. Am at work now, can't give more detail now.
I made a small program for a pic to display the code in system address / command code so i can see what i get. I suggest you put something in your preamp, so people can see if it is their remote acting funny or the preamp itself!
I myself might consider one of your volume pcb's when i am
finished playing with CDP's and DAC's..
Regards,
GuidoB
I had to enable two system addresses in my preamp to get it working again. Am at work now, can't give more detail now.
I made a small program for a pic to display the code in system address / command code so i can see what i get. I suggest you put something in your preamp, so people can see if it is their remote acting funny or the preamp itself!
I myself might consider one of your volume pcb's when i am
finished playing with CDP's and DAC's..
Regards,
GuidoB
APOX-IR1 assembly instructions
Hi guys,
The APOX-IR1 Assembly instructions have been upgraded.
APOX-IR1 page 🙂
Has anyone made any progress with the kits?
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
Hi guys,
The APOX-IR1 Assembly instructions have been upgraded.
APOX-IR1 page 🙂
Has anyone made any progress with the kits?
Thanks,
Craig Beiferman
New Software Posted
A new version of software has been posted (5/21/2003).
It fixes two issues regarding the standby mode.
1) Philips code should now use the power on/off for standby
2) The volume was not being muted in standby mode.
A new version of software has been posted (5/21/2003).
It fixes two issues regarding the standby mode.
1) Philips code should now use the power on/off for standby
2) The volume was not being muted in standby mode.
I built up an APOX-2 (10K resistor set) for testing. It works well and seems to have very good steps for volume control. I don't feel I'm missing anything with 23 discrete steps. Depending upon the source a gain of about 2x to 5x is reasonable. Any gain greater than this may be too much with 23 steps.
I did notice a that the Standby feature did not mute the output despite the display going blank. Dale has found the reason and can fix it through software.
Another issue I noted and am putting out for discussion, is a problem with hum. First, I need to briefly describe my setup and a control system.
The source is connected directly to the volume control which in turn is connnected to a preamp board (all with flying leads on the floor, but all signal leads are shielded 2 conductor cabling.) There is no input board (APOX-IS1 board): source -> APOX-2 (volume control)-> preamp. Also, this set up uses RCA input and output jacks (single ended) and is in stereo.
Control set up: a manual 50K stereo pot inserted in the above scheme in lieu of the APOX-2 board with the exact same wiring. The 50K pot reveals no hum even at full volume; dead quiet. (Speakers, BTW, are only about 88dB efficiency, so this is not a sensitive horn matter.)
APOX set up: shield on input wire going to A and B input ground (labels from APOX-2 board); signal wires L & R going to A and B, respectively. Shield on output wire going from A and B output ground with signal leads from A and B outputs. In other words, a shielded pair going to the APOX-2, and from the APOX-2, with their shields connected through the input/output grounds (the in-shields are not connected to the out-shields). With this setup, hum is severe.
Only by connecting one of the shields (either input side or output side, it made no difference) to the "SHIELD" hole, using a jumper wire, was hum reduced, but still very annoying. Again, the 50K pot using same wiring scheme was absolutely, dead quiet.
Mute and 0 remove hum. Hum increases with the volume level, except at setting 23 (greatet volume), where it decreases. At one point, I had the shield wires directly connected to "SHIELD" input (as opposed to above paragraphs where they are connected to input and output grounds), with a jumper from there to the output ground. This gave greatest hum at mid volume levels, reaching a maximum at maybe #12 and decreasing on either side of this setting. Very peculiar.
This latter situation makes me wonder if R12, which is located very close to the relay conroller ICs (ULN2803A), and is in the middle of the ladder, is somehow picking up noise. (I also noticed, using a trick I learned from an old EE type, that touching the tops of any of these 3 ULN2803As make the hum and distortion levels jump to astronomical levels).
Ideas?
Regards, Robert
I did notice a that the Standby feature did not mute the output despite the display going blank. Dale has found the reason and can fix it through software.
Another issue I noted and am putting out for discussion, is a problem with hum. First, I need to briefly describe my setup and a control system.
The source is connected directly to the volume control which in turn is connnected to a preamp board (all with flying leads on the floor, but all signal leads are shielded 2 conductor cabling.) There is no input board (APOX-IS1 board): source -> APOX-2 (volume control)-> preamp. Also, this set up uses RCA input and output jacks (single ended) and is in stereo.
Control set up: a manual 50K stereo pot inserted in the above scheme in lieu of the APOX-2 board with the exact same wiring. The 50K pot reveals no hum even at full volume; dead quiet. (Speakers, BTW, are only about 88dB efficiency, so this is not a sensitive horn matter.)
APOX set up: shield on input wire going to A and B input ground (labels from APOX-2 board); signal wires L & R going to A and B, respectively. Shield on output wire going from A and B output ground with signal leads from A and B outputs. In other words, a shielded pair going to the APOX-2, and from the APOX-2, with their shields connected through the input/output grounds (the in-shields are not connected to the out-shields). With this setup, hum is severe.
Only by connecting one of the shields (either input side or output side, it made no difference) to the "SHIELD" hole, using a jumper wire, was hum reduced, but still very annoying. Again, the 50K pot using same wiring scheme was absolutely, dead quiet.
Mute and 0 remove hum. Hum increases with the volume level, except at setting 23 (greatet volume), where it decreases. At one point, I had the shield wires directly connected to "SHIELD" input (as opposed to above paragraphs where they are connected to input and output grounds), with a jumper from there to the output ground. This gave greatest hum at mid volume levels, reaching a maximum at maybe #12 and decreasing on either side of this setting. Very peculiar.
This latter situation makes me wonder if R12, which is located very close to the relay conroller ICs (ULN2803A), and is in the middle of the ladder, is somehow picking up noise. (I also noticed, using a trick I learned from an old EE type, that touching the tops of any of these 3 ULN2803As make the hum and distortion levels jump to astronomical levels).
Ideas?
Regards, Robert
I have not assembled my units yet, but I have a question.
When you turn the encoder up or down are all the active relays switching on and off? Is this a lot of wear and tear on the relay's?
Would it be practical to program the unit to step the output when rapid acceleration of the encoder was detected. This way the relays are only switched at specific intervals extending thier life. I guess to sum up, have them behave like a coarse and fine tune function determined by the speed the encoder is moving.
I would like that function anyway.
Thanks, great kit guy's cant' wait to get started, I just moved though so the shop is in turmoil.
Regards
Anthony
When you turn the encoder up or down are all the active relays switching on and off? Is this a lot of wear and tear on the relay's?
Would it be practical to program the unit to step the output when rapid acceleration of the encoder was detected. This way the relays are only switched at specific intervals extending thier life. I guess to sum up, have them behave like a coarse and fine tune function determined by the speed the encoder is moving.
I would like that function anyway.
Thanks, great kit guy's cant' wait to get started, I just moved though so the shop is in turmoil.
Regards
Anthony
Here is some information regarding the reed relays used in the kits:
Operational life is 500E6
Lets put this into perspective:
If you are using an apox 1 and the low bit toggles with each volume (this is not the case, but useful)
That would mean 512 toggles for each complete cycle.
Lets assume you did 100 cycles per day (seems completely excessive, but lets use it anyways)
100 * 512 = 9752 days / 365 = 26 years
Do you expect to be still using this device in 26 years?
Operational life is 500E6
Lets put this into perspective:
If you are using an apox 1 and the low bit toggles with each volume (this is not the case, but useful)
That would mean 512 toggles for each complete cycle.
Lets assume you did 100 cycles per day (seems completely excessive, but lets use it anyways)
100 * 512 = 9752 days / 365 = 26 years
Do you expect to be still using this device in 26 years?
harvardian said:
Duh! Yes of course I do, I regard this as one of my best upgrades to my Audio only system. 🙂
Anthony
Speed Control
Anthony,
Dale already has the speed control function built in.
So that will save you lots of relay steps.
The max speed is settable via the front panel.
And correct me if I am wrong Dale, but I think there is a time delay in the firmware, so if you move the encoder very fast, the
volume is only set after a certain delay. That way we don't need to change the relays at each individual step for a fast moving encoder.
Good Luck,
Craig Beiferman
Anthony,
Dale already has the speed control function built in.
So that will save you lots of relay steps.
The max speed is settable via the front panel.
And correct me if I am wrong Dale, but I think there is a time delay in the firmware, so if you move the encoder very fast, the
volume is only set after a certain delay. That way we don't need to change the relays at each individual step for a fast moving encoder.
Good Luck,
Craig Beiferman
harvardian said:
My Apox-2 better still be working after 26 years!!! 😀
Well, I just finished integrating my Apox kit into my Aksa 55.
It is all done, except for the face plate, which has the LCD
mounted to it via standoffs
. I need to eventually get a new
2U face plate and have it professionally machined to fit
the LCD and any other LEDs and such.
Has anyone mounted their LCD yet?
I used the StandBy pins from the opto-darlington to turn ON/OFF
a MOSFET (IRF510), which controls +5V to two relays (one per
power supply in my dual mono AKSA). The relays draw about
200mA each on the 5V input coil, so this is why is used the MOSFET. It works great, I just push the left knob in to wake it
from stanby, and the relays spring into action!
I mounted the MOSFET, a 1K resistor (from Gate to GND, thanks Craig), and a small input terminal block to the APOX-IR1.
Works like a champ!
If anyone else is interested in what I did, email me and I'll
be glad to help. It is worth noting that I added a zener and
standard diode across each relay coil to keep the high EMF
kick-back from reaching the APOX-IR1.
I'll post pictures soon.
Now, got to test out my AKSA modifications.....
Thanks again Dale and Craig!
-Vinnie
I'm sorry, Dale and I only offer a 25 year warranty. 😉
Hurry up Vinnie, get that front panel cut out.
I can't wait to see the photos.
-Craig
APOX-2: Hum count down...
Number 7 on the hum list is floating all grounds: major hum.
Number 6 and 5 are shorting inputs to ground or using a regulated 5V supply rather than a wall wart. It still was humming along, both the same.
Number 4 Shorting the input grounds to 'SHIELD' helped: hum less but still present.
Number 3: connecting 'SHIELD' to the to 5V power supply ground at terminal block with 10R resistor. Hum slightly better than 4.
Number 2: connecting input grounds to 5V power supply ground at terminal block with 10R resistor. Hum much better but still audible.
Number 1: connecting input grounds directly to 5V power supply ground at terminal block. Hum really inaudible unless ear dangerously close to driver (don't try this at home).
_____
The results were surprising: the 'SHIELD' was not needed.
The other odd thing was that while lifting the jumper on and off the ground at the terminal block, both LEDs on the APOX-2 board would sometimes flicker. When this happened, the volume control wouldn't work and the output would be at full volume. Momentarily lifting the jumper to this same ground and re-connecting it would cause the LEDs to flicker again, and the volume control would work just fine.
Any ideas why this ground is needed? Is there not a digital -> analog ground somewhere? And why does lifting this ground cause the IR1 to go screwy?
Regards, Robert
Number 7 on the hum list is floating all grounds: major hum.
Number 6 and 5 are shorting inputs to ground or using a regulated 5V supply rather than a wall wart. It still was humming along, both the same.
Number 4 Shorting the input grounds to 'SHIELD' helped: hum less but still present.
Number 3: connecting 'SHIELD' to the to 5V power supply ground at terminal block with 10R resistor. Hum slightly better than 4.
Number 2: connecting input grounds to 5V power supply ground at terminal block with 10R resistor. Hum much better but still audible.
Number 1: connecting input grounds directly to 5V power supply ground at terminal block. Hum really inaudible unless ear dangerously close to driver (don't try this at home).
_____
The results were surprising: the 'SHIELD' was not needed.
The other odd thing was that while lifting the jumper on and off the ground at the terminal block, both LEDs on the APOX-2 board would sometimes flicker. When this happened, the volume control wouldn't work and the output would be at full volume. Momentarily lifting the jumper to this same ground and re-connecting it would cause the LEDs to flicker again, and the volume control would work just fine.
Any ideas why this ground is needed? Is there not a digital -> analog ground somewhere? And why does lifting this ground cause the IR1 to go screwy?
Regards, Robert
I'm not getting any LED light-up on my APOX-1 board. I pulled them out and put them in the other way around and still nothing.
What is their purpose?
Also, when I power cycle all the boards, the splash screen doesn't come back on until I run through the setup once.
Another software idea: Right push button; a quick push mutes (or unmutes), and push and hold brings up setup.
Sheldon
What is their purpose?
Also, when I power cycle all the boards, the splash screen doesn't come back on until I run through the setup once.
Another software idea: Right push button; a quick push mutes (or unmutes), and push and hold brings up setup.
Sheldon
Robert, There is no digital to analog ground. the thought was too totally isolate them. (Maybe it was a bad idea!)
The board probably flakes out because your stereo system is probably at a different ground potential then the power supply for the APOX. When you touch the ground pin, the two supplies
will quickly go to the same ground potential, but that momentary voltage glitch is enough to reset the microcontroller.
P.S. I'm really glad you got the HUM out of your system.
thanks for your extra effort!
I was worried what would happen if you couldn't get the HUM out. I though I'd most likely be stoned to death. Ouch!! 
Sheldon, thats not good! 🙁
1 LED is a very low frequency heart beat for the microcontroller.
the other LED flashes on/off when it receives an I2C message.
Does the board seem to be working at all?
Are the series current limiting resistors in your LED path the correct value?
Dale, will have too look at your splash screen problem? But I never saw that problem before?
I also wonder if your +5V supply does not have enough current capability, and is maybe cutting out. Do you have an Oscope to check your +5V supply?
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