Thanks, I bought the remote1 and RC5TX1 remote kit from someone on ebay.mcs said:
For the jumpers on the remote kit , the manual say pin 1 is marked on the pcb. I don't see where it is. Common sense is telling me that pin 1 is the left most hole when looking at the top of the board. Is this correct?
The jumpers should be marked 1-3 and 1-4 on the board silkscreen. Pin 1 of JP6 is below to the "J", and pin 1 of the address header is above the "e" in address - but I think the numbering on the board should be enough 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
dede said:
There's no -5V needed - only +5V and ground 🙂
When you connect the Control2 to the RelVol3 board(s), the ground will be connected through the ribbon cable. You can just connect the +5V and ground from the power supply to the screw terminal of a RelVol3 board.
You should connect the signal ground to the case. The signal ground is on the in/out headers of the RelVol3 boards.
Yes, pin 1 (XLR ground) should be connected at the in/out headers of the RelVol3 boards.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
I have added some tubes (valves for brits) to the shop. Mostly preamp types for now. This is probably mainly interesting for Danes - tubes are expensive here 😉
I will add some more power types later, when I get the matching/testing sorted out 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
I will add some more power types later, when I get the matching/testing sorted out 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi Mikkel,
got the mp and the remote receiver ... all works functional well so far. Thanks !
But there's another issue which i could not imagine when i tested the Kit using the resistors as mentioned in the manual:
When i press the remote for volume and stay pressed on the button, the motor turns the pot with steady short pulses during the time i press the button.
Isn't it possible with this module, that the motor turns steady, so long, as i press the button ? (Not pulsed)
It's unusual for me and to slow too. Is it possible to make a mod to let it turn steady thru remote ?
regards
artQuake
got the mp and the remote receiver ... all works functional well so far. Thanks !
But there's another issue which i could not imagine when i tested the Kit using the resistors as mentioned in the manual:
When i press the remote for volume and stay pressed on the button, the motor turns the pot with steady short pulses during the time i press the button.
Isn't it possible with this module, that the motor turns steady, so long, as i press the button ? (Not pulsed)
It's unusual for me and to slow too. Is it possible to make a mod to let it turn steady thru remote ?
regards
artQuake
dede said:
Yes. If you want to test the Control2 board on it's own, you can connect +5V to pin 2 and ground to pin 14 on either JP1, 2 or 3.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
@MCS, All,
I tested the encoder and they works fine. The "push" function work fine too.
CarstenW said:
mcs said:
CarstenW said:
I tested the encoder and they works fine. The "push" function work fine too.
Hi,
I finished the assembly of the control2 board and of the relvol3 and the first test are ok, but i am unable to enter into the config mode.
When i turn on the board, i keep pushing the button for 60s but nothing happen.
Did i do something wrong?
I finished the assembly of the control2 board and of the relvol3 and the first test are ok, but i am unable to enter into the config mode.
When i turn on the board, i keep pushing the button for 60s but nothing happen.
Did i do something wrong?
dede said:
You should disconnect the power, then press and hold the button while you re-connect the power. Is that what you have been doing?
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
artquake said:
The motor should be on "almost" all the time. If it stays off for long periods, something isn't working correctly.
The remote control sends out volume up/down commands with 114ms spacing. For each command received, the motor is turned on for a certain amount of time. I set the timing for a motor speed I thought was appropriate. All the way from max to min takes some time, but that's not usually how I use a volume control 🙂
To get continuous operation the circuit would have to operate in a different manner. The motor would have to be switched on, and then stay on until no more commands are received. That's possible also, but I would need a third timer for that, and the AT89C2051 only has two timers... So if you want something with a piggy-backed PLCC44 chip, I guess it could be done 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
Exept for the disconnect the power part 😉
Sorry for that, and thanks everything seems good, i will try next week.
Re: Hi, Mikkel!
Yes. I have been waiting for new PCBs for the RelVol2. They finally arrived this week, so I should be able to send your parts tomorrow or Saturday.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Cobra2 said:
Yes. I have been waiting for new PCBs for the RelVol2. They finally arrived this week, so I should be able to send your parts tomorrow or Saturday.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Request for program change
To mcs,
It's good to see you here.
I received the ChipVol1 and VolControl3, assembled, it works well except a couple of things.
You said in your email that the balance can be controlled by the balance control buttons on remote handset. But, unfortunately, my universal remote has no obvious balance control buttons. And, I see almost all remote control handsets do not have the balance control buttons. Which remote control handset on your web page(accessory - remote control) has the balance control buttons? I think it need to be mapped to channel up/down buttons, or arrow keys, or something that is easily available.
And I need two more things.
1. When powered up, the initial volume value should be -96db. Right now, you programmed it as -60 or -50 according to the jumper configuration.
2. When changed from -10db to -9db(from two digits to one digit), and from -1db to 0db(in this case, the minus symbol), the display length of the right volume(R:-10db is 7 characters, R:-9db is 6 characters) changes. So it looks as if whole character string moves, and it is visually no good. I think the program should display a space(or 0 will do) between 'R:-' and '9db'(or any one-length digit with '-' symbol), and two spaces in case of any one-length digit without '-' symbol(such as 0db, 1db, ...).
I think all these changes mentioned above need the program change.
Besides, I have one more problem with the IR receiver, but I need more experiment for that. If I cannot resolve the problem, I'll let know.
Lee
To mcs,
It's good to see you here.
I received the ChipVol1 and VolControl3, assembled, it works well except a couple of things.
You said in your email that the balance can be controlled by the balance control buttons on remote handset. But, unfortunately, my universal remote has no obvious balance control buttons. And, I see almost all remote control handsets do not have the balance control buttons. Which remote control handset on your web page(accessory - remote control) has the balance control buttons? I think it need to be mapped to channel up/down buttons, or arrow keys, or something that is easily available.
And I need two more things.
1. When powered up, the initial volume value should be -96db. Right now, you programmed it as -60 or -50 according to the jumper configuration.
2. When changed from -10db to -9db(from two digits to one digit), and from -1db to 0db(in this case, the minus symbol), the display length of the right volume(R:-10db is 7 characters, R:-9db is 6 characters) changes. So it looks as if whole character string moves, and it is visually no good. I think the program should display a space(or 0 will do) between 'R:-' and '9db'(or any one-length digit with '-' symbol), and two spaces in case of any one-length digit without '-' symbol(such as 0db, 1db, ...).
I think all these changes mentioned above need the program change.
Besides, I have one more problem with the IR receiver, but I need more experiment for that. If I cannot resolve the problem, I'll let know.
Lee
Mikkel, I bought the remote1 and RC5TX1 remote kit from someone on ebay. I should have purchased it straight from you but wasn't aware of your site at the time. The remote kit didn't come with a IR receiver or C4 capacitor. I had a 47uf on hand so threw it in and purchase this IR receiver from digikeywith a bulk order I was making.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=425-2501-ND
I had a chance to bench test the rem1 today. I used a variac for supply voltage set at 7vac. Voltage is 5.1v on C6 even when I raised the variac to 11vac.
I have a dummy motor that I used for testing from a 10KAX2 motorized alps that I pulled apart for other reasons. Waiting for a 25KAX2 motorized alps to come in that I plan to use for this kit.
During power up the motor was turning right away. I took some voltage readings at the motor and this is what i got. With no remote signal (RC5TX1) the motor has 1.42v. Volume up pulsates from around 3.1v to 4.1v and volume down pulsates from -.1v to -1.9v. The remote seems to be working for volume up and down but when no command is sent the idle voltage of 1.42v moves the pot slowly to max volume. Hoping that this is something easily fixed, can you help out?
Note that I will be using the rem1 for volume only.
Thanks
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=425-2501-ND
I had a chance to bench test the rem1 today. I used a variac for supply voltage set at 7vac. Voltage is 5.1v on C6 even when I raised the variac to 11vac.
I have a dummy motor that I used for testing from a 10KAX2 motorized alps that I pulled apart for other reasons. Waiting for a 25KAX2 motorized alps to come in that I plan to use for this kit.
During power up the motor was turning right away. I took some voltage readings at the motor and this is what i got. With no remote signal (RC5TX1) the motor has 1.42v. Volume up pulsates from around 3.1v to 4.1v and volume down pulsates from -.1v to -1.9v. The remote seems to be working for volume up and down but when no command is sent the idle voltage of 1.42v moves the pot slowly to max volume. Hoping that this is something easily fixed, can you help out?
Note that I will be using the rem1 for volume only.
Thanks
Re: Request for program change
Channel up/down are used for the input selector (some people use the VolControlx boards for that also), so they are not available. The arrow keys are not easy to use, as every remote control manufacturer seems to have their own ideas about what codes to transmit when you press them...
Does your remote have other up/down buttons, or could something like 7 and 8 be used?
The other parts answered by e-mail (I think) 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
isidor said:
Channel up/down are used for the input selector (some people use the VolControlx boards for that also), so they are not available. The arrow keys are not easy to use, as every remote control manufacturer seems to have their own ideas about what codes to transmit when you press them...
Does your remote have other up/down buttons, or could something like 7 and 8 be used?
The other parts answered by e-mail (I think) 🙂
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
ecir38 said:
A 38kHz receiver like that one should work fine. You get a bit better sensitivity with a 36kHz type.
Does the motor turn also if you remove the IC? It sounds like a problem in the motor driver circuit. It could be resistors that are a wrong value, or a bad transistor. But check that all the parts are in the right place first.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
I tried it first without the IC and yes the motor did turn. All of the pcb was assembled when I purchased except C4. I will check all the values and locations tomorrow. Thanks
mcs said:
Wow!!!! it is great to have your support, Thanks.
Turned out to be a resistor. I checked all of the resistors with a color code calculator and they looked ok. Then cheked them with a dvm and found R7 to be 47 ohm where it should have been 470 ohm. I replaced it with a 475 ohm I had on hand and all is good now.
After further review I overlooked R6 and R7 to be yellow purple brown gold (470 ohm) originally and come to find out R7 was yellow purple black gold (47ohm)
Thanks again for the support.