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Remote control kits

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#264
Mikkel,
I need to debounce the input selector switches. Sometimes switches respond only second or even third time when pressed, or refuse to switch if switched just a bit faster. I'm using long travel lighted switches (ITW series 39).

I tried with debouncing circuits with schmitt triggers but it still does not work correctly. The triggers otherwise work well with cmos flip flops.
Is there a solution for this?

thanks,
Peter
 
#265
Peter Gruden said:
Mikkel,
I need to debounce the input selector switches. Sometimes switches respond only second or even third time when pressed, or refuse to switch if switched just a bit faster. I'm using long travel lighted switches (ITW series 39).

I tried with debouncing circuits with schmitt triggers but it still does not work correctly. The triggers otherwise work well with cmos flip flops.
Is there a solution for this?
Click to expand...

Have you looked at the switch "outputs" with a scope? The signals have to be stable after 100ms for the switching to work correctly - and that's normally no problem.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#268
5.1 input selector

Hi Mikkel,

My Thule PR350b have only one true analog input that happens to be a 5.1 input. Every other input is either digital or is routed through A/D-D/A conversion in the DSP.
I am interested in a kit for 6/2 ch switching, without volume control, as you indicated this possible in an earlier thread:


How many 5.1 inputs do you (and others) need? I have planned to make a 5.1 "add-on" input selector to be used with one of the 2-channel selectors. So the add-on board would control the remaining 4 channels. But how many inputs? Two or three?
Click to expand...


Wishlist:

- 3 x 6 ch (5.1) inputs
- 3 x 2 ch (stereo) inputs
- 1 x 6 ch (5.1) output
- 16 x 1 LED display for source indication
- 6 x user programmable source names + " mute " in display
- output or inputs muted on power on
- mute selectable from remote
- control by my Philips SBC RU 760 remote control
- no balanced inputs/outputs
- no active components in signal path
- no offset adjustment capabilities
- no front panel controls
- no volume control
- no tape loop

Would all this be possible? What do I need to order for this setup? Price?

/Anders Persson
 
#269
Re: 5.1 input selector

siouxiebuff said:
Hi Mikkel,

Wishlist:

- 3 x 6 ch (5.1) inputs
- 3 x 2 ch (stereo) inputs
- 1 x 6 ch (5.1) output
Click to expand...

The simplest/cheapest would probably be to make a 4-channel add-on board. You could use a standard Input1 board for the stereo channels, and an extra board for the 4 channels. That would get you two boards of approximately the same size, and the 6 inputs you need.

- 16 x 1 LED display for source indication
Click to expand...

What type of LED display are you talking about? If you can get a 16x1 OLED display (LCD compatible) that will work. Regular starburst or matrix LED displays are more difficult to work with. You could also use a VFD with a coloured filter.

- 6 x user programmable source names + " mute " in display
- output or inputs muted on power on
- mute selectable from remote
- control by my Philips SBC RU 760 remote control
- no balanced inputs/outputs
- no active components in signal path
- no offset adjustment capabilities
- no front panel controls
- no volume control
- no tape loop

Would all this be possible? What do I need to order for this setup? Price?
Click to expand...

Yes, the rest should be possible. The extra input board will cost around the same as the Input1. But a bit more because of the low quantity of boards I will order 🙂

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
#272
Ok, I think I understand better now.

With 4 channel board you mean a board with 3 x 4 channel inputs. Excellent!
I am not sure where the 5.1 output will fit however. I hope you can get one of those in as well.

So I then need the following:

- Input 1 board
- the 4 ch board
- Control 2 board
- wallwart supply
- display

Will I need a frontpanel board as well to get the IR - receiver? I will not need any front panel controls.

As I will manage with an 8 digit display, how about this:

http://www.elfa.se/pdf/75/07552862.pdf


Regards,

/Anders
 
#276
whish list 🙂

I am not sure but like somebody sad wish list 🙂
What would be really nice for me to have 5 inputs 1 output and one direct (tape monitor) that is exactly the same size as relvol3, and no need for these RCA connectors just holes we can put some silver wire 🙂 This way it will be possible to stack the two PCBs and gain some valuable space that is always needed inside the chasis 🙂

Regards,
Pred

PS
I ordered last spring my relvol3, still not tried, time flies and no time, but one of these days...
 
#278
Re: whish list 🙂

pred said:
I am not sure but like somebody sad wish list 🙂
What would be really nice for me to have 5 inputs 1 output and one direct (tape monitor) that is exactly the same size as relvol3, and no need for these RCA connectors just holes we can put some silver wire 🙂 This way it will be possible to stack the two PCBs and gain some valuable space that is always needed inside the chasis 🙂
Click to expand...

I guess you would want that board to be balanced, since you have the RelVol3? I don't think I can fit that many full-size relays on a board the same size as the RelVol3. The Input2 board is a bit bigger - even without the connectors 😉

I use the bigger relays on the input selector boards to avoid crosstalk. It's no problem on the balanced inputs (one relay per input), but the unbalanced inputs share a relay between the two channels. Perhaps I should use SMD relays and place them on both sides of the board 🙂

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
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