I wanted to make a photo tour on how i did this job, i already did one speaker from a to z. now the second one an i try to make pictures as much as i can.
First of all i get my aceton ready
Then poor a huge amount on the mylar so its wett and soaky. then i apply the plastic to prevent the aceton to evaporate in 10 seconds.
then i wait for half an hour and fold the plastic back and swoop sideways, all the wire and allot of the dark crap to one side.
i remove all the wire, and start all over again, wet it with allot of aceton.
and apply the plastic blanket
it will suck to the aceton so almost no air comes to it so it wont evaporate
Then after half an hour, pull back the plastic but not all at once or the glue wil harden again. just 10 cm and clean it with a towel.
To get the last residue from the mylar soak ur clean piece of tower and rub it, you might have to do this serval times for the corners and some anoying random sticky stuff.
Then when you repeat this till you done the whole thing it looks like this
Just one thing left the button in the middle of the mylar has to go. get a dril and carefull drill in the middle. BE CAREFULL this is the most tricky part if it is stuck in ur drillbit and the whole button turns around you end up with a huge hole in ur mylar. when the thing is gone that holds the button in place use again allot of aceton and gently try to turn the button till it is off.
clean it up with aceton and remove the piece of aluminum sticking out.. alll verry gently, its rather easy to screw up ur panel in this stage.
after i cleaned it, i tend to cut out a small piece of tape (clear tape would be better) cut the corners and apply it on the spot with the hole. i do this so it wont get a tear. when i reapply the button i use a hot drill or any other metal to pierce it without any tears. then it looks like this.
after this i use a paint burner to slightly heat the tape so the wrinkles will be gone. be careful here as well you dont want to heat the mylar around it or it will losen up!!!.
The button is broken, as you can see, i will make a new one from lexan with some filt on one side on my cnc to replace this one.
thats it for now, i wont bother you with the bass panel, its the same story except it has no button. after that i start the rewire, or in my case refoiling, and i will make some photo's of that as well.
Best regards Joppe
First of all i get my aceton ready
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then poor a huge amount on the mylar so its wett and soaky. then i apply the plastic to prevent the aceton to evaporate in 10 seconds.
then i wait for half an hour and fold the plastic back and swoop sideways, all the wire and allot of the dark crap to one side.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i remove all the wire, and start all over again, wet it with allot of aceton.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and apply the plastic blanket
it will suck to the aceton so almost no air comes to it so it wont evaporate
Then after half an hour, pull back the plastic but not all at once or the glue wil harden again. just 10 cm and clean it with a towel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To get the last residue from the mylar soak ur clean piece of tower and rub it, you might have to do this serval times for the corners and some anoying random sticky stuff.
Then when you repeat this till you done the whole thing it looks like this
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just one thing left the button in the middle of the mylar has to go. get a dril and carefull drill in the middle. BE CAREFULL this is the most tricky part if it is stuck in ur drillbit and the whole button turns around you end up with a huge hole in ur mylar. when the thing is gone that holds the button in place use again allot of aceton and gently try to turn the button till it is off.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
clean it up with aceton and remove the piece of aluminum sticking out.. alll verry gently, its rather easy to screw up ur panel in this stage.
after i cleaned it, i tend to cut out a small piece of tape (clear tape would be better) cut the corners and apply it on the spot with the hole. i do this so it wont get a tear. when i reapply the button i use a hot drill or any other metal to pierce it without any tears. then it looks like this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
after this i use a paint burner to slightly heat the tape so the wrinkles will be gone. be careful here as well you dont want to heat the mylar around it or it will losen up!!!.
The button is broken, as you can see, i will make a new one from lexan with some filt on one side on my cnc to replace this one.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
thats it for now, i wont bother you with the bass panel, its the same story except it has no button. after that i start the rewire, or in my case refoiling, and i will make some photo's of that as well.
Best regards Joppe
Last edited:
Great job. I have re-wired quite a few Maggies and the Tympanis are no fun...just have a little music in the background and a few pints of Guiness handy, and all is well.
Advice - don't go crazy with the M77 spray, and wait a couple minutes to apply the wires...it will get tackier as it drys, and will better hold the wires down until gluing. As long as we are discussing glue, go easy with the N30 too...
Advice - don't go crazy with the M77 spray, and wait a couple minutes to apply the wires...it will get tackier as it drys, and will better hold the wires down until gluing. As long as we are discussing glue, go easy with the N30 too...
Well I buy them 5 mm wide 50 meters long , its enough for one panel With halve a meter left. Instead of THE 6 turn THE wire does double in the middle i do 8 then i get exactly 8 ohm As is needed.
I can order this tape in slices of 3 mm and up increasing 1 mm at a time to like 30 mm
For only 3 euro a roll , look for masking shop it from the uk I don't have URL at hand
I can order this tape in slices of 3 mm and up increasing 1 mm at a time to like 30 mm
For only 3 euro a roll , look for masking shop it from the uk I don't have URL at hand
Thanks for the info and great pictures to go with it.
Looking for to seeing you put down the foil.
Nice Project.
Haha I'm not looking forward to that
hidious long work an precision , these don't combine well. But I will start soon, waiting for the pain to go aWay from my back when I did the first one haha
The foil..
few pictures of the refoil, instead of rewire.
i use a roll of 50 meters aluminium foil, i use foil like magnepan uses nowawday to, they call it quasi ribbon.. dont know why i though it was the fact all side of the membrane are glued to the frame instead of a true ribbon wich is only supported at there ends. but apparantly changing from wire to foil needed a new name.
Pro's i can think of
1- More drive to the membrane it drives a bigger portion of the membrane.
2- les messy glue
3- less weight because no extra glue needed. (yes i know resonance should change with it, i measures and its still 40Hz so looks like tention has a far greater impact on the resonance then the glue)
4- because it has a bigger surface area then wire, i can imagine i gets rid of heat more easy.
cons.
1- its more labor intensive i cant build a rig to do a hole panel at once like you can with wire.
2- getting it straight and nice centered in the gap can be troublesome.
well heres some pictures , i still have to do the last 8 traces in the middle, where i first us transparant tape to isolate the upper 8 traces from the underlaying ones.
This where the tape is seen is gone be the tuning button, i used a heated drill to pucnh the hole to the tape so it wont tear. the foil must not be over that hole so it goes around it a little bit.
the coners are tricky and the fact i could snap the foil at the end and have to start all over again. further more i have exactly 30 cm left at the end so if they cheat me with like 50 cm i cant finish the panel
few pictures of the refoil, instead of rewire.
i use a roll of 50 meters aluminium foil, i use foil like magnepan uses nowawday to, they call it quasi ribbon.. dont know why i though it was the fact all side of the membrane are glued to the frame instead of a true ribbon wich is only supported at there ends. but apparantly changing from wire to foil needed a new name.
Pro's i can think of
1- More drive to the membrane it drives a bigger portion of the membrane.
2- les messy glue
3- less weight because no extra glue needed. (yes i know resonance should change with it, i measures and its still 40Hz so looks like tention has a far greater impact on the resonance then the glue)
4- because it has a bigger surface area then wire, i can imagine i gets rid of heat more easy.
cons.
1- its more labor intensive i cant build a rig to do a hole panel at once like you can with wire.
2- getting it straight and nice centered in the gap can be troublesome.
well heres some pictures , i still have to do the last 8 traces in the middle, where i first us transparant tape to isolate the upper 8 traces from the underlaying ones.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This where the tape is seen is gone be the tuning button, i used a heated drill to pucnh the hole to the tape so it wont tear. the foil must not be over that hole so it goes around it a little bit.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the coners are tricky and the fact i could snap the foil at the end and have to start all over again. further more i have exactly 30 cm left at the end
so if they cheat me with like 50 cm i cant finish the panel
Last edited:
Great work.... Thanks for the pix....
I have done re-wires an put MG1.6 tweeter foil on a pr of MG1s...
The tweeter foil an bass foil are the same on the .7s... even the socalled super tweeter thats on the 1.7s...
.I had a pr here for some time...not a speaker for me.....
The way Magnepan dose it is to put 3m77 spray glue down..... just like with the wire...there foil has No glue on it....
I found the foil ezeyer to do than the wire buy hand...an as for output ...foil vers wire...with foil i lost 2-3 db....I do know the Temp have diff magnets....
Lets us know how it sounds....good luck
I have done re-wires an put MG1.6 tweeter foil on a pr of MG1s...
The tweeter foil an bass foil are the same on the .7s... even the socalled super tweeter thats on the 1.7s...
.I had a pr here for some time...not a speaker for me.....
The way Magnepan dose it is to put 3m77 spray glue down..... just like with the wire...there foil has No glue on it....
I found the foil ezeyer to do than the wire buy hand...an as for output ...foil vers wire...with foil i lost 2-3 db....I do know the Temp have diff magnets....
Lets us know how it sounds....good luck
Last edited:
this drop in sensitivity is not ideal. i think it has to do with the resistance to be honest. i measured one of the panels and yes mid tweeter is a little bit louder but, but i seen one curve online from what hifi i believe, an there was a rise in highs as well so, im not to worried yet. i had one side playing and it sounds pretty nice. although my room is way to small
I like your setup...i am just giveing one mans o-pine....dont stop!...i am in a big room...well 18'x25' all open with chair an speakers...you got a lot of steaker there.. the sound of the MG1 i foild were ok...i dont care for the sound of any Maggys that the mylar is in front...so you can do like others an put the mylar in the front...Magnepan turned the mylar to the front to deal with the loss of output from the foil...an now have went to the sears crossover to get all the output thay can....but i dont care for the sound.. but minny do...most have not even seen the older maggys....good luck
well its funny the tymphani 1D has the foil in front as well as far as i know. i've read that people turn around there maggies, to have more output or something, measured both sides ones, did not notice a real diference to be honest. only thing that could help is having more open erea on both sides front and back. but ofc this is not possible they have to glue there magnets somewhere, and they need a small magnet gap caus they are not strong at all. if neo magnets where used they could have more open area, wich will boost cost like 10 times who wants that!
tyu not trying to argue about ur opinion sorry if it looks like that. probable my writing style and not being native english speaker.
Im glad you post, all information is welcome ofcourse and i can learn from it.
what is the sears crossover?
who wants that! tyu not trying to argue about ur opinion
sorry if it looks like that. probable my writing style and not being native english speaker.Im glad you post, all information is welcome ofcourse and i can learn from it.
what is the sears crossover?
It all good...i need all the info i can get on panels.... like you...
My spelling is a mess...for give me..
Series 6db Crossover are in all the new .7....less parts...an more output i find some say no!
As for the setup...from the 70s i have been into audio an Magnepans.... an for years Magnepane pushed the Point... if you look at the speakers the small holes in the front.. lets only the high frc, thou only....an this is true... an the bass wave came out the back an then off the wall... it was the only way minny in the audio biz said thay worket the best....but thay found god...when thay went to foil...for tweeters...an flip them around..
But when thay went to the full foil... .7s thay changed the crossover also...good luck.. an thanks for your time
My spelling is a mess...for give me..
Series 6db Crossover are in all the new .7....less parts...an more output i find some say no!
As for the setup...from the 70s i have been into audio an Magnepans.... an for years Magnepane pushed the Point... if you look at the speakers the small holes in the front.. lets only the high frc, thou only....an this is true... an the bass wave came out the back an then off the wall... it was the only way minny in the audio biz said thay worket the best....but thay found god...when thay went to foil...for tweeters...an flip them around..
But when thay went to the full foil... .7s thay changed the crossover also...good luck.. an thanks for your time
Rubber mag...3m made frist... like on the frg door.... vary low cost....same used on all maggys.. Arnold Magnetic Technologies Corporation - High Energy Bonded Magnets
Last edited:
yeah its called rubbermagnet , its made from feriet powder and some rubbery stuff.. 12.7 mm wide for bass 1.5 mm thick or something. tweeter magnets are not as wide but are thicker so they are closer to the mebrane and also have litle more flux. also for the highs then had more wire versus mylar so it has more drive force wich is needed or the whole thing sounds boomy and holow. this is why push pul version sounds even better and foil versions to, cause theres more foil versus mylar but with the same weight. and with the push pull ofcourse more drive force.. more linear as well.
One done
Well here a picture of the left side that is finished, i made new socks as you can see. the burlap ones where yellow from age. i tried bleeching and washing but now they would not fit and i made one tear in them..... so i needed to replace them all. no fun but looks beter i think.
i sowed 6 new socks wich was really hard because the material is stretch one of the hardest stuff to sow. so i did not do the best sowing job ever i think but thank god we have to turn the socks inside out anyways
the right panel i had finished as well. so i though but directly after listening i thought i made a mistake. the right side played louder so i started measuring. the mid bass pannel had a short somehwere because it was only 5.6 ohns instead of 8~. i removed al foil and tape. so the clear panel is waiting for the new aluminium foil (ordered)
also took all of it to weight because i was curious about what all this stuff on a panels weighs.. well 38~ grams in total.
Well here a picture of the left side that is finished, i made new socks as you can see. the burlap ones where yellow from age. i tried bleeching and washing but now they would not fit
and i made one tear in them..... so i needed to replace them all. no fun but looks beter i think.i sowed 6 new socks wich was really hard because the material is stretch one of the hardest stuff to sow. so i did not do the best sowing job ever i think
but thank god we have to turn the socks inside out anyways
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the right panel i had finished as well. so i though but directly after listening i thought i made a mistake. the right side played louder so i started measuring. the mid bass pannel had a short somehwere because it was only 5.6 ohns instead of 8~. i removed al foil and tape. so the clear panel is waiting for the new aluminium foil (ordered)
also took all of it to weight because i was curious about what all this stuff on a panels weighs.. well 38~ grams in total.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.