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Reference DAC Module - Discrete R-2R Sign Magnitude 24 bit 384 KHz

Kenneth,

No need to apologize. Neither of us is sure at this point just what that means.

I do wonder if my assumption is incorrect?

Certainly it would be easy to find out, but I am lazy. Hooking all of that up just to find the answer is nothing more than switching channels. I should be ashamed and let me assure you I AM!

Hoping to hear the definitive answer from the man who knows!

I sure would appreciate a polarity switch. I had asked SOEKRIS if he could incorporate one many months back and he said he would put it on the list.

If he does I am going to have to implement dimdim's controller scheme!
 
The answer exists in this thread somewheres... but I am pretty sure invert is the inversion of normal mode, inverting the polarity of the stereo output, not a channel swap. Ideally what Soren needs to implement is invert-bal-left/invert-bal-right modes. Infact it was one of the request features when there was an old bug with the volume control that inverted the polarity of the output at specific steps.
 
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Well, I will be really happy to hear if that is the case.

My impression was based upon what was in HIFIARDUINO's blog.

I went so far as to ask at dBpoweramp Forum if polarity could be reversed during the ripping process but a switch would be superior.

Guess I should give it a try ...
 
I worry that I have misunderstood what INVERT means in the SOEKRIS firmware.

I thought, and have repeated my thought, that INVERT in this case meant switching channels. I felt sure I had read this somewhere but now I have my doubts.

Does INVERT actually mean reversing the polarity of the outputs? If it does I guess I am going to have to learn how to use this without having a computer sitting next to my system!

dimdim, does your controller allow this to be used?

Not at the moment but it is pretty easy to support it..
 
Okay - made it.
Deleted the 32ksps FIR1 filter (dont think I need it) from the 1021filt_104.txt file and deleted the above lines also.
--
-- DSP Filter for the Soekris dam1021, rev 1.04 dated 20150212 etc.
Inserted "my own" linear 44.1khz and mixed 44.1khz filter coefficients. (2032 taps) at the appropriate places.
Then I was able to compile using mkrom 1021filt.
Running it now. Sounds good. (it sounded good before also 😉 )

Not sure what was wrong earlier
 
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I red about some issues with white noise playing and quiet music in the background on high volumes when using Raspberry + DSD + Soekris. I have the same problem - is it something that can be fixed somehow?
Im using LMS 7.9 version supporting DSD and also squeezelite player that supports DSD but have this strange noise and faint music in background....
No problems playing anything else including HD files (192/24).
 
The INVERT function DOES NOT reverse the channels.

I have to assume it is reversing the phase.

Just got it going so i have not had a chance to hear it properly.

Sure hate having a computer grinding away so close to the system. Hoping that doesn't mask the effect of getting the polarity right.

I will be doing my best to make one of dimdim's controllers and hope he will add this switch to his code.

My apologies for many uniformed comments I( have made about this. Should have tried it long ago.

Many thanks to SOEKRIS for it. Hope this doesn't require a power cycle to effect, but better than nothing, by far, even if it does. Does it require a power cycle?

And a mea maxima culpa to Kenneth.
 
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Since rev.3 board has been improved with some mods done by users such as increasing decoupling capacitances, is there an updated list of mods for rev.3 board owner's reference ?
JoEZiGjS0OICAxeLBCgYQkrIgM3FRBTJgvTxrJIPTGCS2BmdoQOLOFiyQ3OnBAqXNjVIgdLijEEWJgAqApGOa4GqMogRoVAwes0aMpQyQrDnoMWCgQD4pbhezIUgKqlqqFuTj98QIAAIxYggozQnRClxRKWGYEmEyq0+QAXfZoqAEhS6ASTRpcMYSATItDGyYl6pDDkig4BlpZKENRgCMAuPzY0MXnVIRBpehcEnEBkwdPi6gMrMLjzpIfPhIA+fBKzhC6AmEZYVKkz9yFAQEAOw==
 
Care to elaborate? All competent designs reclock after the isolation, so i cannot see any detriments. Surely a lower jitter signal is always preferable, particularly so in pll clocked designs such as the DAM.

In theory reclocking and FIFO should take care of any such problem, but in practice there have been reports of audible differences, even in the case of the DAM. People have removed the isolators and heard improvements.

I'm not saying that I understand how that could happen - if anything, the audio quality should become worse, not better, due to the noise that is now injected into the DAM.

But since we do have a choice in USB interfaces, both with and without isolation, I would prefer to go with the more simple design. Just to be on the safe side..
 
In theory reclocking and FIFO should take care of any such problem, but in practice there have been reports of audible differences, even in the case of the DAM. People have removed the isolators and heard improvements.

I'm not saying that I understand how that could happen - if anything, the audio quality should become worse, not better, due to the noise that is now injected into the DAM.

But since we do have a choice in USB interfaces, both with and without isolation, I would prefer to go with the more simple design. Just to be on the safe side..

The OEM version does not have isolators. This might have been requested by the OEM folks (same logic as yours).
 
Would you happen to know if there was reclocking done after the offending isolators?

I am certainly aware that these devices not only increase jitter but also add their own noise. And don't seem to isolate all that well despite the dramatic cutoffs in boards we often see 🙂

I am referring to people on this thread taking out the DAM's isolators and hearing improvement. So there is definitely reclocking being done..

The isolators are basically excellent at DC isolation.. But some RF noise is definitely coupled along with the "useful" signal. That's what happens when your isolator has 150MHz of bandwidth. So it is always a question of which is the lesser of the two evils.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spikestabber View Post

... Try it and report back. I use HD800's in a similar setup but with dual boards. Plenty of juice to drive loud volumes.



I guess this topic is of no interest to you.

Sorry, totally overlooked.

I've simply cut a foot off the end of the stock cables, made a pigtail out of that with a female 4pin, and put a male 4pin on the headphone side. Might try some aftermarket jobs sometime however I'm normally a loudspeaker listener so its not something I have put any effort into yet.