Please get back to the linear filter! Why...? Because we will purchase your productions and would like to play them back with the most accurate (technically) filter. If you use a more softer one all your work will be a little more sharper when we linear filter users play them.
You have a responsibility as a producer
//
You have a responsibility as a producer
//
Please get back to the linear filter! Why...? Because we will purchase your productions and would like to play them back with the most accurate (technically) filter. If you use a more softer one all your work will be a little more sharper when we linear filter users play them.
You have a responsibility as a producer
//
Are you talking to me ?? I don't really follow what you say there....
Please get back to the linear filter! Why...? Because we will purchase your productions and would like to play them back with the most accurate (technically) filter. If you use a more softer one all your work will be a little more sharper when we linear filter users play them.
You have a responsibility as a producer
//
The good thing is that I can always use a better filter if and when it appears.
More critical than the DAC I use for auditioning are the DACs that feed the console and outboard gear. Whatever passes through those DACS will actually be heard by the listener (end consumer).
I am not sure the linear phase filter is actually more accurate. I will buy a Prism AD-2 AD converter, it's discrete and (I hope) free of sigmal delta modulation. So the entire chain will be free of sigmal delta modulation (my power amp is linear, too). Next step then will be to listen to the analog output from the console vs the signal that additionally travels through the ADDA chain.
But in the end from a studio perspective it's most important what works in creating the best sound, not what is the most accurate from a purely technical standpoint.
@Soren
Would it perhaps being dual-mono causing the issue?
I hope you will be able to simulate the problem. Please only when you can.
If the pops sound more like clicks, the issue could very well be firmware 1.19, some have that issue, some don’t. Try 1.06 and see if they disappear...
Not sure what the difference is between pops and clicks... It's actually also interesting how we manage to establish these references as a community
Way off topic...It's probably clicks as you said. I have rev4 so i never experienced the power-off pops in earlier versions. It's very loud and leaves a tingling sensation in the scalp tho... Usually both channel at once for just one click, but sometimes a second can follow within 1s or so maybe in just one channel. Seems to occur with both my PC and iPhone. But the frequency is really quite low so reproduction might not be the easiest.
I'll revert to 1.06 and report back.
Edit: I'm using dual-mono with Amanero. The I2S cable is around 20cm shielded. Probably nothing to worry about as MCLK is not transmitted
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Please let me know im getting strange noise as if like some digital filter is taken off with the current gen boards. I have purchased it few months ago. If I reinstall the filters will it be able work properly? Is there anything like currupt firmware in the dam1021? sometimes in few boards?
1.06 is working well so far. No clicks/pops. Had a couple of spilt second pauses but I wouldn't be surprised if windows10 is to blame. Also could be my I2S wiring but even with the high frequency it's hard to imagine 20cm of shielded cable could turn a 1 into 0. Anyways, the occasional pauses are not much annoying at all and dam1021 sings beautifully.
Actually just had a click so maybe the firmware isn't the only thing to blame, if it is among the problems... This was the first click I've had in a few hours though
Anyone have an idea what might be at fault?...
Btw, just a fun observation - fully balanced output seems to have much better soundstage in movie scenes I tested (DTS + Windows Dolby Atmos) than single-ended. I switched back and forth and it's also almost certainly not a matter of volume. Maybe the opamp balanced out is also better on HD650; would be nice for someone with more expertise to chip in. Either way, I would say with whatever confidence one can ever have in audio that balanced is better than SE for HD650 at least.
Anyone have an idea what might be at fault?...
Btw, just a fun observation - fully balanced output seems to have much better soundstage in movie scenes I tested (DTS + Windows Dolby Atmos) than single-ended. I switched back and forth and it's also almost certainly not a matter of volume. Maybe the opamp balanced out is also better on HD650; would be nice for someone with more expertise to chip in. Either way, I would say with whatever confidence one can ever have in audio that balanced is better than SE for HD650 at least.
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DC Offset on raw output
Does anybody know if it is a problem for the dam if I have a few millivolt DC on the raw output, because my buffer amp (the kuartlotron) has like 4 mV of offset at its inputs I cannot get rid of. In the moment I use a coupling cap, but I would rather get rid of it.
My gut feeling says that it might be detrimental to sound quality and of course I could simply try, but maybe somebody (Probably Soren) has a qualified answer to that...
Thanks
Does anybody know if it is a problem for the dam if I have a few millivolt DC on the raw output, because my buffer amp (the kuartlotron) has like 4 mV of offset at its inputs I cannot get rid of. In the moment I use a coupling cap, but I would rather get rid of it.
My gut feeling says that it might be detrimental to sound quality and of course I could simply try, but maybe somebody (Probably Soren) has a qualified answer to that...
Thanks
Again, all the dam's direct outputs are ideal voltage source with a zout of 625 ohms or 640 ohms (older versions) and 0.0mV DC offset, it don't really care what it's connected to.
Would like to hear your opinion on sound quality with and without Kuartlotron on the raw output. Am running a single-ended 1121 with/without Kuartlotron and trying to decide which I prefer....
Crackling noise
I have a problem not with pops or clics but with random crackling noise. In some situations it can take hours for it to emerge, in other situations it comes every minute and lasts for some seconds. The sound reminds me of a tube amplifier I had with an electrolytic capacitor that was faulty.
It is mostly in one of the channels (right), and rarely when it is the most noisy with a smaller hint in the left channel.
A description of my system and what I have tried might be helpful for diagnosing:
I have a MiniDSP Nanosharc I use as crossover, followed by two DAM 1021, and then two amplifiers fed from the raw output. The DAM 1021's are both powered by one DIYINHK regulator from a transformer with 8V. They have the same software ( the newest). This setup made it easy to shift between the two DAM's both in input and output, which made me sure that the fault is to be found in the one DAC - the other performs flawlessly. What is surprising for me is that if I cut the signal ( shot down the MiniDSP) the noise disappears, and it might last minutes or more before it comes again.
Where should I look? Am I right in suspecting a leaky capacitor on the board? Can it be in the power regulation on the DAM, if it mostly is in one channel?
Any suggestions from those of you who know much more about the construction of the DAM 1021.
I have a problem not with pops or clics but with random crackling noise. In some situations it can take hours for it to emerge, in other situations it comes every minute and lasts for some seconds. The sound reminds me of a tube amplifier I had with an electrolytic capacitor that was faulty.
It is mostly in one of the channels (right), and rarely when it is the most noisy with a smaller hint in the left channel.
A description of my system and what I have tried might be helpful for diagnosing:
I have a MiniDSP Nanosharc I use as crossover, followed by two DAM 1021, and then two amplifiers fed from the raw output. The DAM 1021's are both powered by one DIYINHK regulator from a transformer with 8V. They have the same software ( the newest). This setup made it easy to shift between the two DAM's both in input and output, which made me sure that the fault is to be found in the one DAC - the other performs flawlessly. What is surprising for me is that if I cut the signal ( shot down the MiniDSP) the noise disappears, and it might last minutes or more before it comes again.
Where should I look? Am I right in suspecting a leaky capacitor on the board? Can it be in the power regulation on the DAM, if it mostly is in one channel?
Any suggestions from those of you who know much more about the construction of the DAM 1021.
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Have no clicks and pops with my dam1021 even with firmware 1.19. It is rev1 with all necessary mods. Using it with a rpi.
However another dac that I have had these issues. Yes it was part of a firmware/driver issue but only with windows. When I used a linux distro all clicks and pops were gone.
Not sure why it was so..
However another dac that I have had these issues. Yes it was part of a firmware/driver issue but only with windows. When I used a linux distro all clicks and pops were gone.
Not sure why it was so..
The dam is part of a preamp.The Kuartlotron is following a relais based volume control, with 10k input impedance, in this application it sounds better to me than no impedance converter after the volume control. Generally the Kuartlotron seems to have very little coloration, it is a simple and great buffer...
But I ran the dam for years straight into an amp with 22k input impedance and used just the raw outputs, sounded great. (Maybe even better than today, but I changed a few variables in my stereo setup in the meantime, so it is hard to say).
So I can't really help. Sorry.
By the way. I just removed the coupling caps and music sounds even better, even with that tiny little voltage offset....