recommended full range under 200€

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Looks more complicated to build that means more prone to error in making the enclosure correctly. Why are the inner "emmental cheese" panels missing from the Mark Audio original plans? Can those inner panels holes be chosen randomly?

Bracing /panel resonance control schema are almost as controversial as driver or enclosure design topology, but I've used this method for close to 10yrs with good results.

Yes it takes a few minutes 🙄 to cut those several dozen holes in the braces, and a few more to nest around driver magnet assembly and correctly size/ fit the intersecting braces, but the result is a fairly tight /stiff box.

The spacing can be random - the goal is to have them as open as possible while retain stiffness, and on larger boxes like these, the smallest holes would be approx 2".

If it wasn't a little bit challenging, wouldn't it be boring?
 
Why are the inner "emmental cheese" panels missing from the Mark Audio original plans?

A proper holey brace is almost as much work as the rest of the enclosure. Mark asked that they get left out of the main drawings as he didn't want to scare people off. The holey braces are highly recommended (i would say necessary), but can be left out.

The only criteria for the holes is that they are 30-40% of the are of the panel.

dave
 
Being the guy who builds most of his designs, I'll refine Dave's opening line above to "almost as much time as initial fabrication of the rest of the enclosure" . Finishing - painting, veneering, etc, can easily take another half a dozen hours, not counting drying / curing time.

The braces shown in the SuperP's took probably about 2 hours, all in.
 
Alpair 12P looks like a good plan also.
But I'm thinking to stay with my 2way high efficiency FAST.
Supravox 135LB + 2 x Beta12A-2 which is stated to be at 98 dB that would make 101 dB which would seem enough to go with the 95 dB stated for the Supravox and it's cheap.
Calculated, I would need 1,25 cubic feet, that is 35396 cubic cm, inside volume for one Eminence.
So I could say one ported box with 66 cm height, 21 cm wide and 50 cm depth for both Betas. On top of that would be the open baffle for the Supravox. But, what dimensions to choose for the baffle for the Supravox? Couldn't find a hint in Manzanita plans or elsewhere. Thanks.
 
Made a crude drawing for the enclosure...

Decided to use only one Beta 12A, as it doesn't stay in baffle also to suffer from small area. Sizes for the Eminence are taken from an official source plan, adapted for an obelisk shape, for design purposes and to limit standing waves.
Sizes for the Supravox baffle are not calculated from anything.

I'm thinking to make the separation at 200 Hz, using a 1st order crossover.

My knowledge on crossovers is almost zero so any suggestion would be appreciated. Thinking to have a starting point crossover and then fine tune it in time.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Guys, please help! 🙂

I can see from the graphs that Eminence Beta 12A goes about 97 dB @ 200 Hz but I don't understand what happens in the Supravox 135LB graph:
Supravox 135 LB Mesurements - page 1

From what I understand it seems to be at 65 db @ 200 Hz. I am reading something wrong for sure... the speaker should be stable +/- 3 dB from 60Hz to 18 Khz as stated by the producer.

I know that I shouldn't make the crossover based on frequency response graphs from the producer solely, but I must have a starting point.

I found an old post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/87809-anyone-measure-supravox-135lb.html
and it has some measured values of a 135LB, reaching 110 dB at 200 Hz.

If I were to take this value measured with his enclosure - 110 dB - I would get: 110-97=13 dB difference at 200 Hz between drivers so a 2nd order Linkwitz-Riley would be more suitable than what I previously said for my project (1st order crossover).

Thanks!
 
Or maybe I should lower the crossover point to somewhere where the Eminence is loud enough but where the Supravox is less loud so I could use a lower order crossover and have a less abrupt pass.
That if I could first understand the graphs from Supravox website 🙁
 
Thanks nicoch58!

Problem is, I don't get to understand the frequency response graph of Supravox 135 LB.
It is stated that it's 95 +/- 3 dB but on the graph it never passes 70 dB. What the..?

http://www.supravox.fr/anglais/mesures/135LB/135LB13oct.gif


(but from this graph I can see that it's efficiency drops below 100 Hz which is normal for it; a dip between 900 Hz and 1400 Hz exists which concerns me a little and another dip right before 150 Hz, which indeed I could use in my advantage if I'd cross it there).

And because I don't understand that Supravox 70 dB thing, I can't also choose the crossover type: 1st order or a 2nd order Linkwitz-Riley ? or another..

Praise whoever would enlighten me on this one! 🙂
 
Hi guys,

Looking to try an open baffle design (preferably) with a full range driver. I was contemplating for some time about full ranges, as I've played with some old vintage non-expensive ones and I enjoyed the realism of the sound.

So, I was strongly considering the Visaton B200 but also Supravox 215 RTF 64 Bicone. Not sure why I got stuck with the idea that the speaker should be an 8 inch, but as a result I kind of ignored other smaller drivers.

So, what would be the best value per buck/your recommendation for a full range driver under 200 euro / piece? (any size) (as a side note, I don't want to invest in other drivers after that any time soon to help the lows and highs)

Thanks!

For <$20, take a look at: Ahuja Sound Solutions

With a 20-40W current driver, this one will produce magic. Mind you, the cabinet needs to be large, but it will rival ones that cost $1000's.
 
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