I decided to make some refurbishing regarding one side of my ESL speakers.
These will include experimenting with a set of unarced 'NOS' treble panels removed from an old QUAD, vacuum out, 'wash down' and redoing the dustcovers on all the panels, doing some paint repairing, and changing the diodes on the HT unit if necessary.
Photos are of the transformer successfully removed from it's box and my recently acquired 'untouched' panel.
These will include experimenting with a set of unarced 'NOS' treble panels removed from an old QUAD, vacuum out, 'wash down' and redoing the dustcovers on all the panels, doing some paint repairing, and changing the diodes on the HT unit if necessary.
Photos are of the transformer successfully removed from it's box and my recently acquired 'untouched' panel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks for your info an pic....
Wish other ESL makers... used the so called (Dust cover) type setup.. that I feel give the Quad 57 the sound there known for... one of the best ESL sounds anyone has ever own.....to my ears it a one of a kind sound....with the mylar cover being on the out side of the esl driver....were there NOTHING between your ear ..an the output from the panel....
Why do others not do this today?
I have seen other say... that in the test lab... there not much diff....right!...
What ever .. other ESL I have owned...Sound lab Acoustat ML you name it....NOT!
I have always felt this is what has give the Apogee, Magnepan an some others.. there magical sound....as there drivers voice an mylar being open to the ear...
How others can set with speaker driver were there voice coils are hid in a magnetic gap....after hearing panels....I just don't get....
all just mans o-pine
Wish other ESL makers... used the so called (Dust cover) type setup.. that I feel give the Quad 57 the sound there known for... one of the best ESL sounds anyone has ever own.....to my ears it a one of a kind sound....with the mylar cover being on the out side of the esl driver....were there NOTHING between your ear ..an the output from the panel....
Why do others not do this today?
I have seen other say... that in the test lab... there not much diff....right!...
What ever .. other ESL I have owned...Sound lab Acoustat ML you name it....NOT!
I have always felt this is what has give the Apogee, Magnepan an some others.. there magical sound....as there drivers voice an mylar being open to the ear...
How others can set with speaker driver were there voice coils are hid in a magnetic gap....after hearing panels....I just don't get....
all just mans o-pine
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Dear Forum,
Can anybody help me if I can use 1kV rated 10nf ceramic caps instead of the 3kv recommended for swapping the old ones from the EHT block?
Thank you for your help in advance.
Can anybody help me if I can use 1kV rated 10nf ceramic caps instead of the 3kv recommended for swapping the old ones from the EHT block?
Thank you for your help in advance.
The 10nF capacitors in the EHT block are charged to 1.5kV during normal use.
I would recommend using 2kV as a minimum...3kV is the best choice for long life.
I would recommend using 2kV as a minimum...3kV is the best choice for long life.
One last question : I had purchased a lone ,,dummy" audio transformer from eBay, and I put it into the oven to ease the repaint process of the iron case.
After I had finished the paint process and put the transformer back to it's box, I discovered, that the resistors were way out of specs but rather downward than increased.
I used the lowest temp at the oven for about 10-15 min that successfully melted the wax enough to have the windings out of the box, but I am concerned that this heat 'destroyed' these resistors. However, I did not check the spces before, I measured those after the melting. What do you think? I am about to repaint my other's and I am worried.
Here are the measured specs.
After I had finished the paint process and put the transformer back to it's box, I discovered, that the resistors were way out of specs but rather downward than increased.
I used the lowest temp at the oven for about 10-15 min that successfully melted the wax enough to have the windings out of the box, but I am concerned that this heat 'destroyed' these resistors. However, I did not check the spces before, I measured those after the melting. What do you think? I am about to repaint my other's and I am worried.
Here are the measured specs.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
One speaker's been opened up. No signs of arcing, but some connections seem to be very weak and cosmetically the boxes need some paint work.
The transformer box:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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The white rings are for keeping the banana sockets in place, as the box once was drilled by the previous owner.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The 'transformation' of the box:
First, redo the factory sized holes with some epoxy:
First, redo the factory sized holes with some epoxy:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After sanding:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Drilling a factory-8mm diameter hole
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After more sanding:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And the finished new black coating on the transformer box:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've seen those resistors all over the map in terms of values, and they are also temperature sensitive. Did you re-measure them when they were cool?
You probably didn't hurt them, time and poor design hurt those resistors. Vishay makes a VR68 that is rated for the voltages used in that speaker.
http://www.vishay.com/docs/28907/vr25vr37vr68.pdf
VR68000001803JAC00 Vishay BC Components | Resistors | DigiKey
Hope that helps,
Sheldon
quadesl.com
You probably didn't hurt them, time and poor design hurt those resistors. Vishay makes a VR68 that is rated for the voltages used in that speaker.
http://www.vishay.com/docs/28907/vr25vr37vr68.pdf
VR68000001803JAC00 Vishay BC Components | Resistors | DigiKey
Hope that helps,
Sheldon
quadesl.com
The specs were much lower than the factory specs that is unlikely as these are rather become higher in value than this... I measured the resistors days after the mealtdown. Thank you for the link!
The bent brackets:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
