The board without wax
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Removal of the old diodes:
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Enlarging the holes to fit the new diodes in:
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The new Philips BY 228 Diodes soldered in place:
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Completed board ready to be covered with beeswax:
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The beeswax-cube I picked up in a honey-shop is being melted:
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The completed box:
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Making new patch cables for the unit by hand:
silver plated copper 1mm solid core wire insulated by PTFE ribbon used by plumbers covered by and additional heat shring tubing:
silver plated copper 1mm solid core wire insulated by PTFE ribbon used by plumbers covered by and additional heat shring tubing:
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Last edited:
I replaced the old neon with a new one of the same size, 6*20mm
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The procedure of soldering the solid core patches:
I sourced titanium m3 screws and nuts for the replacement of rivets for fixing the phenolic selector board.
I sourced titanium m3 screws and nuts for the replacement of rivets for fixing the phenolic selector board.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
For some reason, I decided to stay with uniform white color for all the patch cables
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Finished EHT unit:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Will look something like this:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Troubles redoing the 8mm diameter hole in the back of the audio transformer.
The previous owner 'drilled' a larger diameter hole to accomodate a larger and 'better' input sockets, but he removed them after selling the speakers and refitted the OEM plugs those were wobbly in these holes. So, I had to redo the holes with some method.
First, I had used some 'commercial 'epoxy putty, that fell out every time, and had limited durability regarding heat. I had a luck to obtain some nice high temperature putty that stayed in place at least after the drilling and painting too.
The previous owner 'drilled' a larger diameter hole to accomodate a larger and 'better' input sockets, but he removed them after selling the speakers and refitted the OEM plugs those were wobbly in these holes. So, I had to redo the holes with some method.
First, I had used some 'commercial 'epoxy putty, that fell out every time, and had limited durability regarding heat. I had a luck to obtain some nice high temperature putty that stayed in place at least after the drilling and painting too.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Time to refit the windings into the box:
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This is the epoxy I used with success: (sorry for the advertisement)
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The finished audio transformer:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
