clear enough ?
Yep... allmost
in any case - it's better to use as low attenuator value as you can, considering output impedances of your sources ; if sources are happy with 10K pot - then use 10K pot ; anyway Pumpkin is made with input impedance in that range ( remember value of resistors in both J310's gates )
Are you telling me, that 5k is better suit's than a 10k one, if i got the choice ?
when rely is not in use , both signal rails are grounded .
Just soo, that any unused 'source' are grounded, when not in use ?
NICE answers ZenMod...
Jesper.
lykkedk said:
Yep... allmost
Are you telling me, that 5k is better suit's than a 10k one, if i got the choice ?
naah ........ 5K is too low . just use 10 K and be happy
lykkedk said:
Just soo, that any unused 'source' are grounded, when not in use ?
NICE answers ZenMod...
Jesper.
it's better that they are gndd when not in use

Zen Mod said:
crazy yank....
what "chicken scratches better" means ?
ya know that I'm dumb serb
Chicken Scratch = messy writing
🙂
AR2,AR2 said:I did adjustment per Choky's instructions. I do not have F4 and wanted to drive my Aleph 30 so I needed to lower value for two resistors and voila!
AR2 [/B]
I am not sure in understand, please explain.
AR2 said:I did had a brief listen at BAF but I wouldn't take that seriously. Now I had it set up and I had my X BOSOSZ to compare to. It is unbelievable difference. Do not take me wrong - I still like my X BOSOZ, but I was just speechless once I heard amount of top detail from Pumpkin. I was amazed how come that I didn't miss all that detail before? I do not know but it is like Pumpkin has opened whole another dimension on the top of the spectrum. It is very detailed and bright amp. When I say bright not in the negative way, and amazingly there is still very strong and deep bass.
My pumpkin is still based on make shift XBOSOZ power supply while I am waiting for Shanty boards. This pumpkin has special value! It was constructed by Choky, Anatech, Magura and myself. I am afraid to change it since it might loose its international flair. 😎
There is a special shielded wire that Magura and Anatech called Wire from Hell, but they still succeeded in completing it for the BAF.
I will be trying different caps in output to see how it will affect sound. I would strongly advise to try this preamp for F4 or any other amp. It is just unrealistically good.
[/B]
That is one glowing rave

Dinesh
dviswa said:
AR2,
I am not sure in understand, please explain.
....
matter of gain ;
see cookbook for assembly
ZenMod, I know that you can't remember the open loop gain / close loop gain, of the circuit, but is it possible that it can be explained howto calculate it.
The thing ís, that maybe somebody want to increase the gain, which is 100k / 10k = 10x of 'standard' circuit (R1, R3, R5, R6) give's this gain. I increased the 100k(R5, R6) to 147,5k, and decreased the R1, R3 to 6,8k giving me approx. 20x of gain... eg. the
swings around 40v with an input of 2v in my case.
I can't remember the excact, 'max' voltage which the F4 can handle... But if one look forward to attach, an not so gain-strong phonostage perhaps, giving out.. say 1v, the F4 will only be feeded with 10v on standard
, and around 20v in my setup... If the F4 need's... let's say around 25-30v for full throttle, the thing is still missing something to drive it to the max.
I know, that all such adjustment's has a backside, but i hope you got my idea, to conclude the stuff in the revissed cooking-book, BUT this is just an idea i have.
My DAC, gives around 1,6v out, so i think my setting's on
is perfect for that, giving around a voltageswing of 34v (16v on standard
)...
Jesper.
The thing ís, that maybe somebody want to increase the gain, which is 100k / 10k = 10x of 'standard' circuit (R1, R3, R5, R6) give's this gain. I increased the 100k(R5, R6) to 147,5k, and decreased the R1, R3 to 6,8k giving me approx. 20x of gain... eg. the

I can't remember the excact, 'max' voltage which the F4 can handle... But if one look forward to attach, an not so gain-strong phonostage perhaps, giving out.. say 1v, the F4 will only be feeded with 10v on standard

I know, that all such adjustment's has a backside, but i hope you got my idea, to conclude the stuff in the revissed cooking-book, BUT this is just an idea i have.
My DAC, gives around 1,6v out, so i think my setting's on


Jesper.
ZM, anybody,
C4/C5 & C11/C12 are the output caps, I know you have said use your fav. But, I do not have a "fav". I am thinking of using
Black Gate N 47mfd 50V available in partsconnexion for $10, bypassed with 1mfd Vishay MKP 416-420 available on Digikey for a buck.
Why 47mfd? Well, my pumpkin will also be doing double duty of a headphone amp. I thought a larger cap will help with lower impedance cans. Or is this not a good idea?
What do you guys think of this choice? Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Dinesh
C4/C5 & C11/C12 are the output caps, I know you have said use your fav. But, I do not have a "fav". I am thinking of using
Black Gate N 47mfd 50V available in partsconnexion for $10, bypassed with 1mfd Vishay MKP 416-420 available on Digikey for a buck.
Why 47mfd? Well, my pumpkin will also be doing double duty of a headphone amp. I thought a larger cap will help with lower impedance cans. Or is this not a good idea?
What do you guys think of this choice? Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Dinesh
lykkedk said:ZenMod, I know that you can't remember the open loop gain / close loop gain, of the circuit, but is it possible that it can be explained howto calculate it.
lykkkkkgreedydanske
it's hard to please everyone ;
with phono section as that - you can't have all ;
I told you before - you can't go near OLG without sacrifices , just beacuse everything is matter of compromises ;
near OLG , you loose both freq extremes ( not that both are necessary)
what you also loose is amount of X feedback ;
anyway - it's up to you to choose what's best for your ears
in your boots - I'll toss both



anyway - for test - desolder feedback resistors and measure OLG at 1KHz ; you can measure also OLG at 20Hz and 20KHz , while you are at it . I'm sorta short in time , because it will take few mnths that I make my own

let us know what results are

regarding calcs - I remember that my calcs aren't very near measured ; I'm primary toob guy - used to graphs and rulers ,along with calculator ; there must be something I missed for OLG calculus .... those dreky mnfctrrs of 3-7 legged fuses make so small and useless graphs

dviswa said:ZM, anybody,
C4/C5 & C11/C12 are the output caps, I know you have said use your fav. But, I do not have a "fav". I am thinking of using
Black Gate N 47mfd 50V available in partsconnexion for $10, bypassed with 1mfd Vishay MKP 416-420 available on Digikey for a buck.
Why 47mfd? Well, my pumpkin will also be doing double duty of a headphone amp. I thought a larger cap will help with lower impedance cans. Or is this not a good idea?
What do you guys think of this choice? Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Dinesh
Dinesh ;
you package ( + 😉 ) , along with others is packed and ready to sending ;
I just kissed closed doors of post office today ;
seems to me that you found your fave caps 😉
just go for it .
somewhere - in one of my useless OT threads - I mention that I tried

to cut a ... sound was pretty decent , no flabbyness ....... blabla
think about decreasing output resistors to ~ 22E , from 47 as they are now ;
if needed - we can later try something simple - increasing Iq in output stage(s)
don't forget to take cans off the head , if BG's need little burning in

Zen Mod said:
you package ( + 😉 ) , along with others is packed and ready to sending ;
Thanks a lot.
Thanks, I will.Zen Mod said:seems to me that you found your fave caps 😉 just go for it .
OK, anything else I should be changing?Zen Mod said:somewhere - in one of my useless OT threads - I mention that I triedwith cans - with stock (4uF) output caps , cans's impedance was ...... both channels in parallel - so must be no more than 50 ohms........
to cut a ... sound was pretty decent , no flabbyness ....... blabla
think about decreasing output resistors to ~ 22E , from 47 as they are now ;
Zen Mod said:if needed - we can later try something simple - increasing Iq in output stage(s)
don't forget to take cans off the head , if BG's need little burning in![]()
I was wondering about it too. Let's say I want to double the Iq, what values should I be considering?
dviswa said:
............
Let's say I want to double the Iq, what values should I be considering?
roughly speaking .........
halving all mosfet source resistors ;
so - R11 & R16 to 15~18E , R12/R26 & R17/R28 to 330//240E (all that in Pumpkin)
so - that also need changes in Shunty - besides xformer capable to give ~ 82Vct/800mA minimum for stereo , all heatsinks twice thermally capable ( that applicable for Pumpkin too ) and decreasing R7/R7a to 2E4 (Shunty)
in that case you'll double present current hunger

so - you'll have preamp drawing 82V x 0,28A x 2 =46VA ......
more than some hifi DrekMKXX SE^2 amps

anyway - it's up to you to choose what's best for your ears
This is not a problem... no difference between soundsonics of 10xgain and 20xgain
Actually, i am not having trouble, with the gain anymore, it was just an idea i have, that maybee someone else was gainhungry like me 😀 too ! ... I allready adjusted the gain to my need's... I see ofcause that the phono-pre, can't be playing as loud as i would like it to, with a gain of 20x, but it's good enough for now.
I realise, that this is not the right place to ask, about howto calculate such thing's as X-feedback OLG, CLG... etc... seem's that anyone else but me, understand's this. 🙁
I am going to study these technicue's in future... regarding gain/loop etc... that i don't understand quite well... And maybee (can't promise) i will try the meassuring ZenMod suggested.
Anyway, in next few day's.... sneakpreview of my



Greeadylykkedk.... yes i am 😀
Jesper.
The Pumpkin and Shunty PCBs arrived today, Thanks Choky and OLy !
Great looking boards
Here are some examples of heatsink types fitting on the PCBs
( 50 mm high):
Fischer
SK81-50 SA
SK75-50
Austerlitz
KS100.3-50
KS32.1-50E
jormajj
Great looking boards

Here are some examples of heatsink types fitting on the PCBs
( 50 mm high):
Fischer
SK81-50 SA
SK75-50
Austerlitz
KS100.3-50
KS32.1-50E
jormajj
I wonder...did steen ever get caught with his flies undone???
the real question, choky OLD chap....my F4 sings with my squeezebox and I can only get the volume up half way....this means that thinking about pumpkin is idling away the time for no good reason???
Ed
the real question, choky OLD chap....my F4 sings with my squeezebox and I can only get the volume up half way....this means that thinking about pumpkin is idling away the time for no good reason???
Ed

oh I do feel good playing OT with Mr OT himself.....apologies
1. yeah the buzz is with shorted and open inputs
2. buzz stops when switch is flicked off
3. can't measure any ac with dmm it only goes to 3 decimal places on 2v setting, i.e min reading is 1 mv.
4. spks are 96db average , which is why its probably annoying........
I'll get the scope out tomorrow and move stuff around.....seriously, I didnt mean to take your thread OT but thanks for sticking with me....
regards
Ed
1. yeah the buzz is with shorted and open inputs
2. buzz stops when switch is flicked off
3. can't measure any ac with dmm it only goes to 3 decimal places on 2v setting, i.e min reading is 1 mv.
4. spks are 96db average , which is why its probably annoying........
I'll get the scope out tomorrow and move stuff around.....seriously, I didnt mean to take your thread OT but thanks for sticking with me....
regards
Ed
vitalstates said:oh I do feel good playing OT with Mr OT himself.....apologies
1. yeah the buzz is with shorted and open inputs
2. buzz stops when switch is flicked off
3. can't measure any ac with dmm it only goes to 3 decimal places on 2v setting, i.e min reading is 1 mv.
4. spks are 96db average , which is why its probably annoying........
I'll get the scope out tomorrow and move stuff around.....seriously, I didnt mean to take your thread OT but thanks for sticking with me....
regards
Ed
how much caps you have in PSU filtering ?
are input RCAs isolated from chassis ?
have you PTC between safety and audio gnd?
is it 50 or 100 HZ buzzzzzzzz?
it's same in both channels?
is it same in one channel if you remove supply to other channel
etc
one by one ,please
vitalstates said:Hi choky
sorted the F4 buzz, it was RF from the tranny, just the same problem I had with the F2. For info, the common factor is clairtronic transformers....
This cured it completely:
why on earth you place that drek ditto to input terminals and cables ?
turn it around - place it on blind front plate , place PSU pcb in middle of amp ;
find biggest tuna can , eat what's in it , and make lalalala shildie pot for crummy donut
patience mon brave, nothing is fitted in that pic, its all just resting in free space......I just took the pic to show the orientation that works.....
btw we don't have tuna tins that large(well maybe we do but I havn't seen one)...but I'm going to mount the tranny on a bracket in roughly the same place it is shown and turn the ps board round 90 degrees where is has more room.........its not artistic, but hey it works
this is what it looks like when lying flat on the floor in the middle
btw we don't have tuna tins that large(well maybe we do but I havn't seen one)...but I'm going to mount the tranny on a bracket in roughly the same place it is shown and turn the ps board round 90 degrees where is has more room.........its not artistic, but hey it works
this is what it looks like when lying flat on the floor in the middle
Attachments
vitalstates said:patience mon brave, nothing is fitted in that pic, its all just resting in free space......I just took the pic to show the orientation that works.....
btw we don't have tuna tins that large(well maybe we do but I havn't seen one)...but I'm going to mount the tranny on a bracket in roughly the same place it is shown and turn the ps board round 90 degrees where is has more room.........its not artistic, but hey it works
this is what it looks like when lying flat on the floor in the middle
well - since all is sorta dismantled now - try it as I said ;
there is less harm in routing 220 line all the way to front plate , than keeping lousy xformer near sensitive lines
(I didn't invent that , so - don't thank me

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