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Hi anatech - yeah, we're not too far away at all !
You wouldn't need to convince me on the usefulness of a scope - we have a good selection where I work and we have to solve problems with our products around the world.
However, if you want to listen to some amplifiers and drink beer then you might get my interest 😀
You wouldn't need to convince me on the usefulness of a scope - we have a good selection where I work and we have to solve problems with our products around the world.
However, if you want to listen to some amplifiers and drink beer then you might get my interest 😀
This didn't oscillate:
Forget the test equipment, someone else needs to listen to those amps. There could be some auditory hallucination going on...
🙂

Forget the test equipment, someone else needs to listen to those amps. There could be some auditory hallucination going on...
🙂
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Joined 2009
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whubbard said:Through the link on his profile, here is a photo of his B1:
Yikes...
I don't see a problem with the soldering, good thick wires. It's cramped and the point-to-point is more like point-around the trees-to-point but we all start off without experience and skills.
Hasn't the B1 been eliminated as the source of the problem already ?
Hi Kenji,
You are not trying to fix anything. An entire lab stocked with technicians and top line equipment would not resolve your issues. I have seen that you would rather talk about, and attempt to run verbal circles around every statement. The reason I took this position was that you have been given a great deal of advice on how to proceed. I even suggested how you might be able to use the equipment you can not afford. Well, you seem to be more interested in debating than anything else. Had you sat down with a soldering iron (I'd love to see what you are using), the job could have been completed by now. It's not.
Your tone with Hugo has been disrespectful, which is why I attempted to assist you. I know Hugh to be a very even tempered and helpful person.
My attitude towards you has changed from someone who could use some help to more of an insincere person getting his jollies at everyone else's expense. The reason for this change is in how you respond and the games you seem to be playing.
In answer to your comments, to troubleshoot a misbehaving piece of electronic equipment, a good meter and oscilloscope are the two things a technician will be reaching for. This would be true IFF (that's "if and only if" for the mathies out there) you were making a true attempt to solve your amplifier problems. You are not, and so Hugh is correct in stating that you do not require a CRO, or anything else for that matter. You are not "faced with a precarious situation where I do not know who to believe.". In fact, had you done as I had suggested, no harm would have come to anything and all other options would be still open to you. However, we all would know for sure what was not a problem. In short, you did not have to choose who or what to believe. I had recognized early on that you are the type of person that would need to be hit soundly over the head for an idea to make it's way into your consciousness.
Your course has not changed one bit. You will not do anything to help yourself it seems. You will try to debate suggestions and question self evident facts known to all in the Electronics field. You have no problem with attempting to damage the reputations of people who you disagree with. That's even though you do not understand the subject at hand.
I don't think you deserve to be assisted. That's not what you are after anyway. However, if you prove me wrong and actually do some work yourself towards solving your problems, and cease with the silly debates with people - I will help you as much as I can. Please. Prove me wrong.
-Chris
As Hugh pointed out, and I now completely agree with him....But in response Chris said:''Believe me when I tell you that I don't like wasting my time. Wrong attitude, so this post will be the last attempt to assist you unless you can make an effort to help yourself.''
do you see what I mean?
You are not trying to fix anything. An entire lab stocked with technicians and top line equipment would not resolve your issues. I have seen that you would rather talk about, and attempt to run verbal circles around every statement. The reason I took this position was that you have been given a great deal of advice on how to proceed. I even suggested how you might be able to use the equipment you can not afford. Well, you seem to be more interested in debating than anything else. Had you sat down with a soldering iron (I'd love to see what you are using), the job could have been completed by now. It's not.
Your tone with Hugo has been disrespectful, which is why I attempted to assist you. I know Hugh to be a very even tempered and helpful person.
My attitude towards you has changed from someone who could use some help to more of an insincere person getting his jollies at everyone else's expense. The reason for this change is in how you respond and the games you seem to be playing.
In answer to your comments, to troubleshoot a misbehaving piece of electronic equipment, a good meter and oscilloscope are the two things a technician will be reaching for. This would be true IFF (that's "if and only if" for the mathies out there) you were making a true attempt to solve your amplifier problems. You are not, and so Hugh is correct in stating that you do not require a CRO, or anything else for that matter. You are not "faced with a precarious situation where I do not know who to believe.". In fact, had you done as I had suggested, no harm would have come to anything and all other options would be still open to you. However, we all would know for sure what was not a problem. In short, you did not have to choose who or what to believe. I had recognized early on that you are the type of person that would need to be hit soundly over the head for an idea to make it's way into your consciousness.
Your course has not changed one bit. You will not do anything to help yourself it seems. You will try to debate suggestions and question self evident facts known to all in the Electronics field. You have no problem with attempting to damage the reputations of people who you disagree with. That's even though you do not understand the subject at hand.
I don't think you deserve to be assisted. That's not what you are after anyway. However, if you prove me wrong and actually do some work yourself towards solving your problems, and cease with the silly debates with people - I will help you as much as I can. Please. Prove me wrong.
-Chris
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Joined 2009
Paid Member
tinitus said:
You dont seem interested though
I asked about your age
No answer to that either
Others would have been more informative
You just seem to go round the bushes
the B1 has never been used with this amp. Hugh has already said that a CRO is unnecessry so I think that is the bottom line.
So we can eliminate that suggestion especially since its going to be almost impossible to get hold of at this point.
Hugh and I have talked about offset and bias. Again he has stated that they are abit high but do not need to be adjusted. They measure about 40-50mv and 70mv respectively.
I am 24 years old.
Hi Gareth,
Sounds interesting. I'm not mobile that much, but I'd be interested in doing something. It would be interesting to see what you do, and what you listen to.
Hey John,
Your circuit has a gain of just-less-than-one? It appears to be an output stage only. I also see a capacitor there, to prevent oscillations?
Any circuit with reasonable gain can be made to oscillate by arranging the wires to and from it. I've spent years repairing kits people made and blew up due to wire dress issues. The most picky line I've ever seen were the ILP modules sold in the late 70's, early 80's. Then there are all the audiophiles who replaced wire and caused amplifiers to fail because they were not run even closely to where they were originally.
A stable circuit can most certainly be induced to oscillation through poor lead dress. Whether Hugh's can or not I can't say for sure. I've never seen one in the flesh, but I'll bet it can be made to oscillate.
Sounds interesting. I'm not mobile that much, but I'd be interested in doing something. It would be interesting to see what you do, and what you listen to.
Yes, it isn't in use right now apparently. It does serve as an example of Kenji's workmanship and understanding.Hasn't the B1 been eliminated as the source of the problem already ?
Hey John,
Your circuit has a gain of just-less-than-one? It appears to be an output stage only. I also see a capacitor there, to prevent oscillations?
Any circuit with reasonable gain can be made to oscillate by arranging the wires to and from it. I've spent years repairing kits people made and blew up due to wire dress issues. The most picky line I've ever seen were the ILP modules sold in the late 70's, early 80's. Then there are all the audiophiles who replaced wire and caused amplifiers to fail because they were not run even closely to where they were originally.
A stable circuit can most certainly be induced to oscillation through poor lead dress. Whether Hugh's can or not I can't say for sure. I've never seen one in the flesh, but I'll bet it can be made to oscillate.
Wow, this has bounced back and forth alot , while reaching no solution. 🙁
This particular topology is one that "wants to work" (simulation and in the real world). Short of trying to make it oscillate on purpose,(input/ output traces close together for 3 ", etc.) it is nearly impossible to screw this amp up.
The professor said BOTH channels sound degraded SUDDENLY. If this is reality and not imagined , then it could not be the wiring , since it was wired the same as when it DID sound good.
If it was a component on one of the the amps , it is highly unlikely that both amps would have the same degradation. the power supply is common to both amps , so it is more likely.. this includes grounding.
When the amps WERE sounding good , was that minus the blackgates, try going back to a standard cap (a known reference).
Given the constraints of the AKSA IP , troubleshooting this conclusively is nearly impossible except to state what is more or less probable.
I do know these things because I "bootlegged" a pair and intend to do 2 more for the rear channels of my HT. A simple ,elegant , durable amp that is hard to beat , even with 30 transistor superamps.
Edit.. the professor should at least read through the main DIY amp threads AND the solid state PIX thread to observe other projects and clean up the "rats nest".
NO criticism is personal ,Professor. I would love for you to enjoy the sound 🙂 .
OS
About oscillation No, I dont think your wiring would do that Not with a stable curcuit What it can do is make the difference between ok and better
This particular topology is one that "wants to work" (simulation and in the real world). Short of trying to make it oscillate on purpose,(input/ output traces close together for 3 ", etc.) it is nearly impossible to screw this amp up.
The professor said BOTH channels sound degraded SUDDENLY. If this is reality and not imagined , then it could not be the wiring , since it was wired the same as when it DID sound good.
If it was a component on one of the the amps , it is highly unlikely that both amps would have the same degradation. the power supply is common to both amps , so it is more likely.. this includes grounding.
When the amps WERE sounding good , was that minus the blackgates, try going back to a standard cap (a known reference).
Given the constraints of the AKSA IP , troubleshooting this conclusively is nearly impossible except to state what is more or less probable.
I do know these things because I "bootlegged" a pair and intend to do 2 more for the rear channels of my HT. A simple ,elegant , durable amp that is hard to beat , even with 30 transistor superamps.
Edit.. the professor should at least read through the main DIY amp threads AND the solid state PIX thread to observe other projects and clean up the "rats nest".
NO criticism is personal ,Professor. I would love for you to enjoy the sound 🙂 .
OS
Hi Kenji,
DC offset itself in the mV range is not harmful. If the DC offset is out of normal bounds for that circuit, it may be indicating a fault. Output bias current that can not be reduced to what is a normal range for that circuit also indicates a fault. So these can be clues that may indicate a fault. For AC faults, the instrument of choice would be an oscilloscope.
Hey, I just had an idea! Do you know how to make an RF probe for a voltmeter?
Your conversations with Hugh have obviously not lead to a solution so far. I don't know why this is, but I hear a figure of 60 email exchanges. That is ridiculous, what's going on here Kenji? What would you say is the reason why you do not have a properly working amplifier? Remember that you did resort to post here on this thread for assistance, even though this is not the correct place for this. A new thread ought to have been created for this.
-Chris
Depends. You need help from someone with an oscilloscope if your amplifier continues to misbehave after you have corrected the wiring. That is the truth.Hugh has already said that a CRO is unnecessry so I think that is the bottom line.
I can not help you at all in that case. Sorry.So we can eliminate that suggestion especially since its going to be almost impossible to get hold of at this point.
That may be true. However, oscillation can show itself as a slightly high bias current. Been there, seen it, fixed it - many times.Hugh and I have talked about offset and bias. Again he has stated that they are abit high but do not need to be adjusted. They measure about 40-50mv and 70mv respectively.
DC offset itself in the mV range is not harmful. If the DC offset is out of normal bounds for that circuit, it may be indicating a fault. Output bias current that can not be reduced to what is a normal range for that circuit also indicates a fault. So these can be clues that may indicate a fault. For AC faults, the instrument of choice would be an oscilloscope.
Hey, I just had an idea! Do you know how to make an RF probe for a voltmeter?
Your conversations with Hugh have obviously not lead to a solution so far. I don't know why this is, but I hear a figure of 60 email exchanges. That is ridiculous, what's going on here Kenji? What would you say is the reason why you do not have a properly working amplifier? Remember that you did resort to post here on this thread for assistance, even though this is not the correct place for this. A new thread ought to have been created for this.
-Chris
whubbard said:Through the link on his profile, here is a photo of his B1:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yikes...
-West
Yes and no
Thats what puzzles me
Does it work
Cause if it does, man, I would be really impressed
I would never have the courage to attempt something like that
Its a fact that the most skilled tube builders do it that way, and only that way, cause they believe in it
But only the most skilled can do it
I only wonder why Smith continues to avoid solving the problem
Well, we have some figures of measured bias and DC(too high to my liking)
How many times have that been measured
Over how long intervals etc
No measurements of voltage, ac and dc?
Man, why do we have to continue to ask fore every little bit of basic information
But we still really know nothing
Attachments
I think, this man, deliberatelly, wants to trash Hugh design
So, all you can do, giving him attention, is to cooperate with his intentions.
Things he say about the amplifier do not make any sense to me ... and i have several Hugh designs..so... this makes me think this way.
You are exercising your goodwill dedicated to the evil.
Try to enter the problem...imagine Mr. Professor trashing YOUR amplifier this way... will you be so kind with him?
A good clue to you is to see Professor was a commom member since he started with that..now he is a very important and famous member, as he trashed one of the best audio amplifiers designers we have...so..something productive happened to him.
This sittuation is unfair folks.... we cannot accept novice guys enters to trash our good designers products this way...when our leader's importance is reduced this way..we will be reduce in importance too.
I do not think people has the same value...Nelson Pass,because of many reasons, values hundred times more than me..... so...in my point of view...if i start to bother Nelson.... you should kick me out.
Carlos
........................................................................................................
I am very surprised this thread continues opened...because of less harm happened to forum folks, many threads were closed...
this thread will end anywhere...he will continue with those strange issues as this is feeding his soul with the need to be under the spot.
Wake up to the reality boys...world is not always sweet..there are the sweet guys and the non sweet guys in this earth
So, all you can do, giving him attention, is to cooperate with his intentions.
Things he say about the amplifier do not make any sense to me ... and i have several Hugh designs..so... this makes me think this way.
You are exercising your goodwill dedicated to the evil.
Try to enter the problem...imagine Mr. Professor trashing YOUR amplifier this way... will you be so kind with him?
A good clue to you is to see Professor was a commom member since he started with that..now he is a very important and famous member, as he trashed one of the best audio amplifiers designers we have...so..something productive happened to him.
This sittuation is unfair folks.... we cannot accept novice guys enters to trash our good designers products this way...when our leader's importance is reduced this way..we will be reduce in importance too.
I do not think people has the same value...Nelson Pass,because of many reasons, values hundred times more than me..... so...in my point of view...if i start to bother Nelson.... you should kick me out.
Carlos
........................................................................................................
I am very surprised this thread continues opened...because of less harm happened to forum folks, many threads were closed...
this thread will end anywhere...he will continue with those strange issues as this is feeding his soul with the need to be under the spot.
Wake up to the reality boys...world is not always sweet..there are the sweet guys and the non sweet guys in this earth
anatech said:
Hey John,
Your circuit has a gain of just-less-than-one? It appears to be an output stage only. I also see a capacitor there, to prevent oscillations?
Chris! How's it going? 🙂
Yes, the gain is 1, but the cap is not compensation (between the driver bases).
I've built other linguine salads with plenty of gain that didn't oscillate. Could be my good luck 😉

Hi tinitus,
What you see there is not point to point wiring, P-T-P wiring uses terminal strips or turret boards. Every component is fixed on both ends to a terminal on something and has well defined locations. What you are looking at is called "rats nest" construction. This is not how the older pros do things. They also used to lace the wiring into harnesses (also designed carefully). I know how to do this, harness lacing makes good sense in certain situations. I have (carbon) dated myself I think.
Hi Kenji,
You say you are 24. Do you understand that many of us here have been doing professional work since before you were born? I have over 30 years experience in audio and electronic design for example.
I don't know about you, but it would seem to me that your manner towards others here is completely inappropriate. You are in a position to learn from others, not to dictate your terms.
Why do you have this attitude? What courses of study have you pursued after the normal public school program?
I ask because I am concerned about you. The manner you are using right now will not work in life. I guess you need to learn these things the hard way.
-Chris
Well, actually they do not build like that. If you look at real point to point wiring, you will see that much care goes into lead dress and component placement.Its a fact that the most skilled tube builders do it that way, and only that way, cause they believe in it
What you see there is not point to point wiring, P-T-P wiring uses terminal strips or turret boards. Every component is fixed on both ends to a terminal on something and has well defined locations. What you are looking at is called "rats nest" construction. This is not how the older pros do things. They also used to lace the wiring into harnesses (also designed carefully). I know how to do this, harness lacing makes good sense in certain situations. I have (carbon) dated myself I think.
Hi Kenji,
You say you are 24. Do you understand that many of us here have been doing professional work since before you were born? I have over 30 years experience in audio and electronic design for example.
I don't know about you, but it would seem to me that your manner towards others here is completely inappropriate. You are in a position to learn from others, not to dictate your terms.
Why do you have this attitude? What courses of study have you pursued after the normal public school program?
I ask because I am concerned about you. The manner you are using right now will not work in life. I guess you need to learn these things the hard way.
-Chris
carlos is someone I wanted help from given that he has built several of Hughs amps as he says. He is also very knowledgeable about amps in particular.
But its unfortunate that he has prevented me from emailing him and has turned against me. Its all through a misunderstanding.
What he claims about me being a mischief maker is false.
On the other hand its very easy for what I say here to be misconstrued. Its like trying to diagnose a medical problem online. I have tried this and all kinds of possibilities present themselves based on the symptoms I describe. It's no substitute for seeing a doctor.
I am going to continue this privately via email with a few members here.
But its unfortunate that he has prevented me from emailing him and has turned against me. Its all through a misunderstanding.
What he claims about me being a mischief maker is false.
On the other hand its very easy for what I say here to be misconstrued. Its like trying to diagnose a medical problem online. I have tried this and all kinds of possibilities present themselves based on the symptoms I describe. It's no substitute for seeing a doctor.
I am going to continue this privately via email with a few members here.
Hi John,
That is a nice 'scope. Better behaved than mine is.
You are very lucky. I've been lucky as well, the trick is to keep the heat sink well grounded, and the other wires about where they should go.
Often when most of us "tack" something together, we still follow the rules we learned. This allows us to get away with some things that wouldn't fly as a permanent build. For instance, your output stage is a prototype for experimenting. I doubt it would stay that way and be put into use.
I'm still doing the doctor dance and trying not to over extend myself. I'm working on getting back to the level of activity I had when you were over last.
Of course, you do know you are always welcome over. Whenever, even if it's only to look at something.
Now, how are you doing these days? I hope business is good for you.
Take it easy John, Chris
That is a nice 'scope. Better behaved than mine is.
You are very lucky. I've been lucky as well, the trick is to keep the heat sink well grounded, and the other wires about where they should go.
Often when most of us "tack" something together, we still follow the rules we learned. This allows us to get away with some things that wouldn't fly as a permanent build. For instance, your output stage is a prototype for experimenting. I doubt it would stay that way and be put into use.
I'm still doing the doctor dance and trying not to over extend myself. I'm working on getting back to the level of activity I had when you were over last.
Of course, you do know you are always welcome over. Whenever, even if it's only to look at something.
Now, how are you doing these days? I hope business is good for you.
Take it easy John, Chris
I've been busier than a 3-legged man in a butt kicking contest. Not much time for play just yet. A little later, toward the end of the summer/early fall.
Yes, just a tacked together experiment. It will work fine laying on the bench, but as soon as that mess goes in a box, bad things start happening. 😀
There's no substitute for neat work.
Yes, just a tacked together experiment. It will work fine laying on the bench, but as soon as that mess goes in a box, bad things start happening. 😀
There's no substitute for neat work.
Hi John,
Good to hear.
Of course, any time that is good for you, you're welcome here. I'll even poison you with coffee.
I may have to remove the O.T. posts (not your picture one). Just our chit chat.
Stay busy and don't get hurt John! I may need some help with my basement later on. I have to at least but up some strapping and insulation. Haven't got a clue on that stuff.
-Chris
Good to hear.
Of course, any time that is good for you, you're welcome here. I'll even poison you with coffee.
I may have to remove the O.T. posts (not your picture one). Just our chit chat.
Stay busy and don't get hurt John! I may need some help with my basement later on. I have to at least but up some strapping and insulation. Haven't got a clue on that stuff.
-Chris
Kenji,
Like Chris, a man of huge experience in audio I respect greatly, I do think it is your manner. You have put people off side. You have somehow gotten Carlos, a man with a sunny nature delighted to help, against you, and in recent times, even me, the supplier of the product. I tried hard, but you pursued me relentlessly with your emails, and you never seemed to listen. Finally you made a blanket assumption that the amp was defective, entered a public forum where you must have known such aspersions might be damaging, and even though in the early stages you sang its praises, I became exasperated and gave up.
You seem very mild, but there is always a sting in your tail. You stubbornly refuse to accept that to isolate a fault you must isolate the operating environment; the original CD player, no preamp, speakers of known lineage, etc. You say you have no resources, no one to turn to, you are beginning to sound very socially insular, and yet you are patently unwilling to remedy the situation by moving outside your comfort zone and asking for assistance.
You MUST have some friends with similar interests. Do they have CD players, amps, speakers? Do you or your family know anyone with a technical background and a CRO you could examine your outputs on? Beg borrow or steal these items, they might help.
However, my thoughts are that this could be a power quality issue, and possibly a source issue. But you will never know for sure unless you use reference tracks you well know, in a listening room properly set up with reasonable speakers. This all takes effort and time. Lots of helpful posts on DIY audio are just that - but you must put in the effort. For myself, if I'd heard the system perform well, indeed spectacularly as you described it in an early email to me, then if it has deteriorated since I'd be looking at something I'd done, not lashing out at the amp design, which many others without vested interests have said is one of the best of breed. It strikes me that you are a negative fellow, and quick to apportion blame, without considering all the logical possibilities which might have led to your system losing its initial sparkle.
The issue of cap break-in is significant, and it might be accounting for these issues. BUT, you never did wait out the 150 hours, which is probably coming up about now. When it does come around, it will amaze you, because it happens in a few short hours.
Because of your approach, your negative comments, and your determined avoidance of testing the theories of contributors here, I and a few others have begun to doubt your motives. I have not met you and don't know your personality or approach directly, but I am exasperated beyond belief. I suspect you may be sincere, but I am not sure, and I'm not prepared to give more of my valuable time to merely wander around in circles. I have a lot to do, I'm a busy guy, and while I appreciate you are a fully paid up customer, I would remind you of my original exhortations to go elsewhere during your decision process because I suspected early on you would not be happy with any amp you bought. However, you insisted, and you bought a refurbished, traded AKSA 55N+ at a discount, and my email help has exhausted me and depleted my reserves, and I'm at a loss.....
As for design philosophy, have a good read of my white papers on the website. They trace my journey from early days, and present my amp development history, which focusses more on listening tests than rigorous measurment. I hasten to add that I use lots of measurement, but I'm more interested in distortion spectra, for example, than THD figures, which are a lumped parameter of dubious correlation with the subjective experience.
Finally, I should point out that as a manufacturer in a public forum, I am an extremely easy target. Everything I write will be construed as a manipulative and venal attempt to build sales. Naturally I have great difficulty with this, as the last thing I want is to defend myself against the naysayers who would paint me as a technical anti-Christ. I am therefore reluctant to take this further on DIYaudio, and I am unwilling to further enjoin communication via email as it has proven so wasteful of time and so unsuccessful at resolving your misunderstandings.
I would politely suggest you fix the wiring, dress it nicely so all power rail wires are twisted pairs, and make the wires suitably long so the power supply can be located a couple of inches behind and between the modules. Take care with the solder joints onto the spade connectors, or better still, use 1/4" spade connectors onto the amp modules to avoid heating up the spade connections on the foil side, where they might otherwise create dry joints.
If you want to build a simple mains filter, try the Felix (or Felicia) which is detailed by Paul Kaplan (Occam) in The Lab of audiocircle.com. Sometimes, in areas where power mains are dirty like large cities, mains filters are very helpful.
Cheers,
Hugh
Like Chris, a man of huge experience in audio I respect greatly, I do think it is your manner. You have put people off side. You have somehow gotten Carlos, a man with a sunny nature delighted to help, against you, and in recent times, even me, the supplier of the product. I tried hard, but you pursued me relentlessly with your emails, and you never seemed to listen. Finally you made a blanket assumption that the amp was defective, entered a public forum where you must have known such aspersions might be damaging, and even though in the early stages you sang its praises, I became exasperated and gave up.
You seem very mild, but there is always a sting in your tail. You stubbornly refuse to accept that to isolate a fault you must isolate the operating environment; the original CD player, no preamp, speakers of known lineage, etc. You say you have no resources, no one to turn to, you are beginning to sound very socially insular, and yet you are patently unwilling to remedy the situation by moving outside your comfort zone and asking for assistance.
You MUST have some friends with similar interests. Do they have CD players, amps, speakers? Do you or your family know anyone with a technical background and a CRO you could examine your outputs on? Beg borrow or steal these items, they might help.
However, my thoughts are that this could be a power quality issue, and possibly a source issue. But you will never know for sure unless you use reference tracks you well know, in a listening room properly set up with reasonable speakers. This all takes effort and time. Lots of helpful posts on DIY audio are just that - but you must put in the effort. For myself, if I'd heard the system perform well, indeed spectacularly as you described it in an early email to me, then if it has deteriorated since I'd be looking at something I'd done, not lashing out at the amp design, which many others without vested interests have said is one of the best of breed. It strikes me that you are a negative fellow, and quick to apportion blame, without considering all the logical possibilities which might have led to your system losing its initial sparkle.
The issue of cap break-in is significant, and it might be accounting for these issues. BUT, you never did wait out the 150 hours, which is probably coming up about now. When it does come around, it will amaze you, because it happens in a few short hours.
Because of your approach, your negative comments, and your determined avoidance of testing the theories of contributors here, I and a few others have begun to doubt your motives. I have not met you and don't know your personality or approach directly, but I am exasperated beyond belief. I suspect you may be sincere, but I am not sure, and I'm not prepared to give more of my valuable time to merely wander around in circles. I have a lot to do, I'm a busy guy, and while I appreciate you are a fully paid up customer, I would remind you of my original exhortations to go elsewhere during your decision process because I suspected early on you would not be happy with any amp you bought. However, you insisted, and you bought a refurbished, traded AKSA 55N+ at a discount, and my email help has exhausted me and depleted my reserves, and I'm at a loss.....
As for design philosophy, have a good read of my white papers on the website. They trace my journey from early days, and present my amp development history, which focusses more on listening tests than rigorous measurment. I hasten to add that I use lots of measurement, but I'm more interested in distortion spectra, for example, than THD figures, which are a lumped parameter of dubious correlation with the subjective experience.
Finally, I should point out that as a manufacturer in a public forum, I am an extremely easy target. Everything I write will be construed as a manipulative and venal attempt to build sales. Naturally I have great difficulty with this, as the last thing I want is to defend myself against the naysayers who would paint me as a technical anti-Christ. I am therefore reluctant to take this further on DIYaudio, and I am unwilling to further enjoin communication via email as it has proven so wasteful of time and so unsuccessful at resolving your misunderstandings.
I would politely suggest you fix the wiring, dress it nicely so all power rail wires are twisted pairs, and make the wires suitably long so the power supply can be located a couple of inches behind and between the modules. Take care with the solder joints onto the spade connectors, or better still, use 1/4" spade connectors onto the amp modules to avoid heating up the spade connections on the foil side, where they might otherwise create dry joints.
If you want to build a simple mains filter, try the Felix (or Felicia) which is detailed by Paul Kaplan (Occam) in The Lab of audiocircle.com. Sometimes, in areas where power mains are dirty like large cities, mains filters are very helpful.
Cheers,
Hugh
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