sploo said:
The Iwata W400WB is very air efficient, Iwata have made a name for themselves with efficient guns that are happy to run on lower HP compressors. If you don't have much air and want professional results than the Iwata's are probably the best answer. It only requires 25psi or 1.8bar of pressure at the air cap to achieve full atomisation. This means the air requirements are just 230ltr/min. The reason it can operate with so little air is simply because the air cap and fluid nozzle atomise the paint in two stages, the first is directly after the paint leaves the fluid nozzle and then its done so again by the air cap around 1/4" from the fluid nozzle. Its the only gun out there that does this. You can buy a SATAjet HVLP that chews up 380ltr/min of air and get similar atomisation but when you consider its only using 230ltr and getting the same results its impressive engineering.
Another thing that I would definitely not be without is an inline regulator. You always have a pressure difference between your compressor outlet and the end of your air line. This is caused by pressure drop and the amount is determined by the air line length. When you set 2bar on your compressors regulator it definitely isn't 2bar at the air cap on the gun! You can guess the correct pressure by using the somewhat hap hazzard rule of 10mtr air line = 1bar pressure drop but its not accurate and for a gun and product to spray correctly you need exact air pressure rating at the air cap on the gun. Only way to achieve this is an inline regulator that attaches to the gun.
I use a Devilbiss DGi gauge which is a digital type unit and accurate to within +/- 0.05bar. More than anything, when spraying waterbased paints and metallics its absolutely critical to set the correct rating for both the air cap to function properly and give correct atomisation as well as follow the paint manufacturers instructions. The quality of the finish is massively noticeable since I applied the inline regulator.
Here's the Iwata with the DGi gauge attached:
The SATAjet RP is the most air hungry at 300ltr/min and 35psi or 2.5bar of pressure at the air cap. This gun is probably right on the limit of what my compressor can handle (340ltr FAD max.)
Finally the Airgunsa AZ3 HTE is also very air efficient and no surprise since an Iwata gun. It requires 28psi or 2bar of pressure at the air cap and uses 205ltr/min of air.
Thanks for all the info Ant.
A mate that runs a spray shop mentioned that his waterbased paint wasn't any more expensive than his usual stuff, but I don't know where he's getting it from (and I expect it's much better value in large quantities).
As for those guns, 230ltr/m would be on the limit of what my compressor could deliver, but it might just do it.
I was mulling over what to do about running the mask and gun at the same time. What I need is something that will supply 6cfm (170litres/min) at 2.5bar (35psi).
An impeller based blower would be ideal, as it just sucks in air and pushes it out. Because the air doesn't go through a motor you wouldn't need any filters, water/oil separators etc. The problem is that whilst an impeller will deliver huge CFM (100cfm is trivial) the pressure is very low.
Of course, I could try supplying the mask via a larger diameter hose (say 1-2"), but that would require modding it, which I'm reluctant to do.
A mate that runs a spray shop mentioned that his waterbased paint wasn't any more expensive than his usual stuff, but I don't know where he's getting it from (and I expect it's much better value in large quantities).
As for those guns, 230ltr/m would be on the limit of what my compressor could deliver, but it might just do it.
I was mulling over what to do about running the mask and gun at the same time. What I need is something that will supply 6cfm (170litres/min) at 2.5bar (35psi).
An impeller based blower would be ideal, as it just sucks in air and pushes it out. Because the air doesn't go through a motor you wouldn't need any filters, water/oil separators etc. The problem is that whilst an impeller will deliver huge CFM (100cfm is trivial) the pressure is very low.
Of course, I could try supplying the mask via a larger diameter hose (say 1-2"), but that would require modding it, which I'm reluctant to do.
Gordon,
What do you think of attaching thin aluminium sheet over exposed lamination joints? Specifically I was thinking of using some of the 0.5mm thick ones I have lying around.
I just can't get my head around living with the slight joints marks that still creep back using the veneer. Its not a definite joint line but more like a watermark the follows the path of the joint ie. faint but visible in the right light.
Strangely enough, the joint marks are only appearing on two of the five facets on each baffle and this is consistent across both baffles. No idea why either, there's nothing different about any of the facets, they're essentially identical and were formed in the same manner.
I think I'm going to have a shot at stripping back the paint I've already got on them and then carefully sand the veneer off. After that apply the alu sheet with contact adhesive and trim as well as I can in the mitre saw and then move onto sanding to get it flush with the surrounding areas. Its a pretty soft grade of alu and being 0.5mm thick it doesn't take much work to sand either.
Its a ball ache of a job but I think it might be OK and thats what I need to save my sanity at this point.
Alternatively I could avoid that effort and go with another solid colour, as the problems I'm talking about above only apply to metallics, but a solid colour doesn't seem to be what I'm after. I think the only ones I'd consider would be black or maybe white.
We seriously need to find a fool proof material that machines well, is acoustically inert to a good degree, reasonably priced and finishes well. Not asking too much then.
What do you think of attaching thin aluminium sheet over exposed lamination joints? Specifically I was thinking of using some of the 0.5mm thick ones I have lying around.
I just can't get my head around living with the slight joints marks that still creep back using the veneer. Its not a definite joint line but more like a watermark the follows the path of the joint ie. faint but visible in the right light.
Strangely enough, the joint marks are only appearing on two of the five facets on each baffle and this is consistent across both baffles. No idea why either, there's nothing different about any of the facets, they're essentially identical and were formed in the same manner.
I think I'm going to have a shot at stripping back the paint I've already got on them and then carefully sand the veneer off. After that apply the alu sheet with contact adhesive and trim as well as I can in the mitre saw and then move onto sanding to get it flush with the surrounding areas. Its a pretty soft grade of alu and being 0.5mm thick it doesn't take much work to sand either.
Its a ball ache of a job but I think it might be OK and thats what I need to save my sanity at this point.
Alternatively I could avoid that effort and go with another solid colour, as the problems I'm talking about above only apply to metallics, but a solid colour doesn't seem to be what I'm after. I think the only ones I'd consider would be black or maybe white.
We seriously need to find a fool proof material that machines well, is acoustically inert to a good degree, reasonably priced and finishes well. Not asking too much then.
sploo said:
Good idea but I think you need that positive pressure for the air gates in the mask to work properly ie. the exhaust vent doesn't allow gas in whilst your breathing in and likewise when you breath out the carbon dioxide is forced through the exhaust correctly.
Not worth voiding the warranty on your expensive air fed mask. Especially if it doesn't go to plan.
Roughly how many litres of air per minute does the average person consuming when doing light work such as spraying? I keep thinking back to your idea about modding a tradition filter based respirator. You've already got the valves in place to control air flow and you could attach the hoses directly to where the filters once were. The problem is I'm guessing you'll need a substantial bore on the supply hose and you'll need a head sock such as this:
...and goggles to do the work a full face mask would.
I'd love to see a photo of someone wearing that little home made collection though.
It's just occurred to me that we spend so much time worrying about joints showing, the we forget that most speaker manufacturers seem to deal with this problem by designing with the joints in mind, that is, using them as a natural break in their surfaces, and instead of trying to hide them, they highlight them with contrasting materials or surface treatments.
Just look at anything by Sonus Faber and you can see they fairly revel in the joins.
Just look at anything by Sonus Faber and you can see they fairly revel in the joins.
ShinOBIWAN said:
I would guess that the alu would work pretty well, in the sense that it wouldn't show the joins underneath. I am surprised that it telegraphs through the veneer to be honest, but I suppose it isn't as tough as metal.
Rich makes a good point about etch primer though - I'd expect you'd want something suitable for the metal. Though I must admit to having used red oxide from a can, and 2K high solids on both alu and steel before, and have gotten away with it.
Mos Fetish said:
Very good points. In fact, if you look at a lot of top class cabinetry work (i.e. very skilled carpentry) the joins are often accentuated and used as a focal point.
However, you could also argue that most speaker boxes are rectangular cabinets, because it's the easiest to make (even though it's about the worst shape for a speaker), so why bother trying anything else (like some of B&W's stunning offerings).
With apologies to John Kennedy... "We choose to make these silly shaped speakers. We choose to make these speakers in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard, because that goal will serve to look bling in our living rooms and wow other geeks, because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one which we intend to win, and the others, too."
ShinOBIWAN said:
I took a good look at the mask last night, and it's actually pretty simple.
A thin PVC tube runs down the inside of the mask, and is clipped to the area that goes under your chin. The last couple of inches has lots of small perforations (slits) in the tube, and the end has a cap. Around the slit area is a foam cover - a bit like a wind sock on a microphone.
The mask has a loop of elastic edged material that you hook under your chin, and it seals the gap between the mask and your neck.
There is no other seal, valve, vent of any kind I could see. All that happens is that a light 'waft' of air comes out of the foam sock, which you can breath, and air will escape round the sides of the mask (past your ears). It appears that it's simply the fact that it keeps pumping air into the mask volume that keeps it safe (a tiny bit like those old diving helmets).
Basically, all you need is to be able to supply clean air at a sensible rate - the pressure coming out of the foam sock is very low, it obviously just needs the pressure to go through all the thin hoses (and probably the carbon filter on the waist belt).
So, I was considering looking for a small impeller blower, which I could run through 4" diameter hose, then a short run of a thinner hose attached to the mask - you could even push the hose past the elasticated chin strap, and still get a good seal around your neck. Not every comfortable, but it'd work.
Well, I was chatting to a mate about this, and he suggested using the HVLP turbine - genius! It supplies more air than you'd possibly need, through several meters of thin(ish) flexible hose, and should be pretty clean*. When I get time, I'm going to take a look into how practical this will be.
* I'm assuming, as a turbine, it'll be an impeller, which means the air doesn't go through the motor or any other 'dirty' channel.
Lots to report since my last post...
Ages ago, I created a whole set of blocks, glued and sealed with a variety of products (these were before I tried the G4 damp-proof sealer or urethane paint).
All the blocks had been given a couple of coats of black cellulose, and have since been sitting in a warm and dry location. The best four (least/no lines) were the following:
Cascamite glued/epoxy coated
Cascamite glued/poly varnish coated
Epoxy glued/epoxy coated
Epoxy glued/poly varnish coated
I sanded them, applied 2K clearcoat, and left them for a couple of weeks. They've now been sanded and polished. None are showing any lines, but they've only been finished for a couple of days, so time will tell.
I also had another Cascamite glued block, which was covered in three coats of white 1K Urethane Isolack.
This looks impressive, and has never shown sinking lines. It was also sanded and polished, and I'll keep an eye on it.
Because the 1K Isolack is a bit soft, and reacts with 2K clearcoat, I've just bought the 2K version of the Isolack, and I sprayed some new test blocks last night.
All the blocks were Cascamite glued, two were raw MDF, one was sealed with Cascamite (it occurred to me that cured Cascamite is supposedly waterproof, and it's pretty easy to brush onto a surface, so I gave it a test).
The Cascamite coated block covered well with paint (I've previously found that the 1K Isolack initially struggled to stick to a G4 coated block). As expected, it soaked into the raw blocks (just like the 1K version).
The Cascamite block will require a little sanding, and probably another coat. Experience with raw MDF tells me those two blocks will need another two coats (one to actually coat the surface, sand to de-nib, and another finish coat).
I checked the blocks this morning, and (after just 8 hours) they're already nearly as hard as the 1K version (after several weeks of drying).
I plan to try the 2K clearcoat over one of the raw MDF blocks in the long term, to check compatibility, but the paint (being 2K) should be tough enough without a clearcoat, so it's just a case of finding what looks better.
I've also given a mate a raw test block, as he's going to try some epoxy paints he's using on RC aircraft models. I may also try another G4 coated block, as it looked promising with the 1K Isolack, but the application of the 2K clearcoat damaged the paint finish, so an accurate assessment isn't possible.
As for the HVLP turbine, I've checked it's "guts" and found that it draws air over the motor, so I don't fancy using it to supply breathing air (also begs the question of what particulates will get into your paint job when using it, as there was a fair bit of fine dust in the unit).
Ant - I've watched one of the DVDs - the one with the guy prepping and spraying what looked like a 'vette. Picked up some good tips, though I was surprised that he warned of the dangers of isocyanates, then sprayed without any airfed gear! I suppose it was in a proper spray booth (presumably with extraction) but looking at the mist buildup, I wouldn't want to spray in an enclosed location with just a passive mask and goggles.
Ages ago, I created a whole set of blocks, glued and sealed with a variety of products (these were before I tried the G4 damp-proof sealer or urethane paint).
All the blocks had been given a couple of coats of black cellulose, and have since been sitting in a warm and dry location. The best four (least/no lines) were the following:
Cascamite glued/epoxy coated
Cascamite glued/poly varnish coated
Epoxy glued/epoxy coated
Epoxy glued/poly varnish coated
I sanded them, applied 2K clearcoat, and left them for a couple of weeks. They've now been sanded and polished. None are showing any lines, but they've only been finished for a couple of days, so time will tell.
I also had another Cascamite glued block, which was covered in three coats of white 1K Urethane Isolack.
This looks impressive, and has never shown sinking lines. It was also sanded and polished, and I'll keep an eye on it.
Because the 1K Isolack is a bit soft, and reacts with 2K clearcoat, I've just bought the 2K version of the Isolack, and I sprayed some new test blocks last night.
All the blocks were Cascamite glued, two were raw MDF, one was sealed with Cascamite (it occurred to me that cured Cascamite is supposedly waterproof, and it's pretty easy to brush onto a surface, so I gave it a test).
The Cascamite coated block covered well with paint (I've previously found that the 1K Isolack initially struggled to stick to a G4 coated block). As expected, it soaked into the raw blocks (just like the 1K version).
The Cascamite block will require a little sanding, and probably another coat. Experience with raw MDF tells me those two blocks will need another two coats (one to actually coat the surface, sand to de-nib, and another finish coat).
I checked the blocks this morning, and (after just 8 hours) they're already nearly as hard as the 1K version (after several weeks of drying).
I plan to try the 2K clearcoat over one of the raw MDF blocks in the long term, to check compatibility, but the paint (being 2K) should be tough enough without a clearcoat, so it's just a case of finding what looks better.
I've also given a mate a raw test block, as he's going to try some epoxy paints he's using on RC aircraft models. I may also try another G4 coated block, as it looked promising with the 1K Isolack, but the application of the 2K clearcoat damaged the paint finish, so an accurate assessment isn't possible.
As for the HVLP turbine, I've checked it's "guts" and found that it draws air over the motor, so I don't fancy using it to supply breathing air (also begs the question of what particulates will get into your paint job when using it, as there was a fair bit of fine dust in the unit).
Ant - I've watched one of the DVDs - the one with the guy prepping and spraying what looked like a 'vette. Picked up some good tips, though I was surprised that he warned of the dangers of isocyanates, then sprayed without any airfed gear! I suppose it was in a proper spray booth (presumably with extraction) but looking at the mist buildup, I wouldn't want to spray in an enclosed location with just a passive mask and goggles.
Sounds good Gordon and looks like there's a few promising choices. I guess time will tell, give the 2k clear about a week to dry and I remember hearing on one of those DVD's that it takes 8 weeks to cure. Paint drys from the top down and cures from the bottom up.
So the DVD's have arrived eh? The one that you watched is OK but the best one is the custom spraying. Watch that next.
So the DVD's have arrived eh? The one that you watched is OK but the best one is the custom spraying. Watch that next.
I thought I mailed you to let you know they'd turned up? Might be going senile in my old age... 
.
Yea, the one I watched mentioned 8 weeks before waxing, as it could interfere with the curing process.
I checked the 2K Isolack blocks this evening, and they're now definitely harder than weeks old 1K!
Planning an air supply for the mask at the moment (looking at squirrel cage fans and vaccum hose).
.Yea, the one I watched mentioned 8 weeks before waxing, as it could interfere with the curing process.
I checked the 2K Isolack blocks this evening, and they're now definitely harder than weeks old 1K!
Planning an air supply for the mask at the moment (looking at squirrel cage fans and vaccum hose
).
sploo said:I thought I mailed you to let you know they'd turned up? Might be going senile in my old age...
Just check my mail and yes you did last week. I can't remember reading it, yet its marked as read. Strange. I'd have replied if I'd known, sorry about that.
Certain waxes are new paint friendly and don't mess with the curing process. These are always advertised as suitable for use on new paint. There's no rush for wax anyway so I'd always leave it a couple months before applying.
That great to hear and surprising. 2k does harden quicker but that's quite some difference there.
I'll be sending anything I build from now your way to having it primed
.ShinOBIWAN said:...That great to hear and surprising. 2k does harden quicker but that's quite some difference there.
I'll be sending anything I build from now your way to having it primed
*LOL* It does dry very quickly compared to the 1K stuff. Wait for me to sort out this breathing setup before you go posting hundreds of kilos of enclosures for me to paint
.Since my last post, I sanded the three most recent blocks, gave them another two coats of 2K Isolack (30 minute flash off between each coat).
This still didn't completely cover the raw MDF blocks. I wasn't quite so aggressive with the first coats on the raw blocks this time - with the 1K I put loads of coats (maybe 10 or so) on the blocks in quick succession (with them all soaking in and dissapearing). I guess I need to do the same with the 2K version, in order to saturate the MDF. Once dry, this appears to let the next coats sit on top, and not soak in.
After a couple of days, I sanded the blocks, and this time gave them three coats, again with a 30 minute flash off time.
They're all now nicely covered, though you can just see the glue lines on the raw MDF blocks. I'll give them a week or two before final sanding, and report on the results.
One thing I have noticed with the 2K is that it seems to be thinner and less 'sticky' than the 1K product. I'm getting lots of runs on the surface, and trying to reduce the paint quantity (or increasing the spray distance) just gives lots of orange peel. It's not difficult to sand the runs flat, but it is a pain.
Ant - I watched the custom painting DVD. First thought - simply amazing. The guy's skill is awe-inspiring. Second thought - why waste all that talent painting a bolloxed up chav hatchback?
Seriously though, nearly as impressive as the guy's talent was his example with the waterbased paint - spray, 30 seconds flash off with a heat gun, repeat, then apply masking tape and remove. Simply incredible drying speed.
BTW I was intriuged by this 'transparent base' he kept using. Not something I've seen before.
Hi Sploo,
Your research continues.
I have seen the light! and it's waterbased. Over here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=106736&perpage=25&pagenumber=3
I've used the WB urethane clear on the stained part and over the previously painted baffle. I'm waiting on the waterbased urethane paint to come in this week. Based on the results I have had with the clear WB urethane, I'll never go back to solvent based.
I will still use solvent based urethane for priming, but I'll just brush and roll that on. Finish painting will be WB from now on.
Amazing dry time and hard enough for sanding the next day.
Your research continues.
I have seen the light! and it's waterbased. Over here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=106736&perpage=25&pagenumber=3
I've used the WB urethane clear on the stained part and over the previously painted baffle. I'm waiting on the waterbased urethane paint to come in this week. Based on the results I have had with the clear WB urethane, I'll never go back to solvent based.
I will still use solvent based urethane for priming, but I'll just brush and roll that on. Finish painting will be WB from now on.
Amazing dry time and hard enough for sanding the next day.
Hi John,
Well, Ant certainly seems to be sold by this waterbased stuff. It does look impressive.
I hadn't actually spotted your thread - hugely impressive work, and great to see more of that speaker (having only seen a couple of pics you posted earlier in this thread).
Is the solvent based urethane you're using for priming a primer, or a paint? I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I've been getting reasonable results from using the urethane paint on raw MDF.
The Isolack product indicates the application of two coats, with a through drying of 5-6 days for the 1K, and 24-48 hours for the 2K. It doesn't indicate a flash off time, so I was applying two or three coats with a 30 minute flash off time, which seems to work OK.
You indicate you'll spend a day spraying loads of coats (10). Were you laying down 1K solvent based urethane with a 30 minute flash off time?
Is the waterbased urethane you're now trying as elastic as the solvent based product? That seems to be a big factor (as well as thick coverage) in stopping lines from showing on MDF.
Well, Ant certainly seems to be sold by this waterbased stuff. It does look impressive.
I hadn't actually spotted your thread - hugely impressive work, and great to see more of that speaker (having only seen a couple of pics you posted earlier in this thread).
Is the solvent based urethane you're using for priming a primer, or a paint? I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I've been getting reasonable results from using the urethane paint on raw MDF.
The Isolack product indicates the application of two coats, with a through drying of 5-6 days for the 1K, and 24-48 hours for the 2K. It doesn't indicate a flash off time, so I was applying two or three coats with a 30 minute flash off time, which seems to work OK.
You indicate you'll spend a day spraying loads of coats (10). Were you laying down 1K solvent based urethane with a 30 minute flash off time?
Is the waterbased urethane you're now trying as elastic as the solvent based product? That seems to be a big factor (as well as thick coverage) in stopping lines from showing on MDF.
Hi,
The solvent based urethane is paint (flat, dries quicker), though I've used polyurethane varnish. Not sure there is a urethane primer.
I've done 10 coats in a day, flash time was variable. Main thing was not to let it dry completely (sanding will show layers). I'd pick a really great day to paint though - sunny, warm, a nice breeze seems to help. Keeping the work out of direct sunlight while painting also improves results.
The WB clear seems harder and more brittle. I don't have the paint that I ordered yet. It's a special tint that my local Sherwin Williams can't do, so it has to come up from Toronto. I could have gone and picked it up, but I've got a few days off to catch up on things around the house. I ramble...
My plan is to use the WB paint 2 or 3 coats, then 4 to 5 coats clear on top, without waiting for the colour to completely dry, just flash. I'm sick of the black muck that forms from wet sanding the colour.
As far as elasticity goes, I think the 1K solvent based is more resilient. Time will tell though.
The solvent based urethane is paint (flat, dries quicker), though I've used polyurethane varnish. Not sure there is a urethane primer.
I've done 10 coats in a day, flash time was variable. Main thing was not to let it dry completely (sanding will show layers). I'd pick a really great day to paint though - sunny, warm, a nice breeze seems to help. Keeping the work out of direct sunlight while painting also improves results.
The WB clear seems harder and more brittle. I don't have the paint that I ordered yet. It's a special tint that my local Sherwin Williams can't do, so it has to come up from Toronto. I could have gone and picked it up, but I've got a few days off to catch up on things around the house. I ramble...
My plan is to use the WB paint 2 or 3 coats, then 4 to 5 coats clear on top, without waiting for the colour to completely dry, just flash. I'm sick of the black muck that forms from wet sanding the colour.
As far as elasticity goes, I think the 1K solvent based is more resilient. Time will tell though.
MJL21193 said:
Interesting. But why bother spraying the WB paint over the urethane when you could spray the urethane colour you want (which you have to do anyway), then go straight to the clear?
My understanding of clears is that the best are still solvent based - especially 2K, or are you planning on a WB final coat?
Interesting point about the elasticity. It's now been four days since I sprayed the 2K Isolack and it's like concrete. On a couple of the blocks, there are slight signs of glue lines, but I'm going to give it a bit of time before sanding, so hopefully it'll be good.
The 1K Isolack always seems to stay just slightly elastic (it will take a fingernail) and I'm wondering if that helps absorb any minor movement in the glue lines, as the block I did has never shown any lines.
I'm about to update progress
The plan (and I executed it today) is to prime with solvent based urethane using brush or roller. Then once that is dry, sand smooth and paint with the WB urethane paint. After 3 or 4 quick coats of paint then I'll proceed right away to the WB urethane clear. Put on 7 or 8 thin coats of that.
With this process I'll never have to spray a solvent based product.
There is a 2K WB clear available. I'm not sure if the solvent based one is better. My guess is no, given all of the advantages to using the WB.
I'm about to update the progress on my speaker build thread. Check that out for more details on using this paint (which I got yesterday).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=106736&perpage=25&pagenumber=4
sploo said:
The plan (and I executed it today) is to prime with solvent based urethane using brush or roller. Then once that is dry, sand smooth and paint with the WB urethane paint. After 3 or 4 quick coats of paint then I'll proceed right away to the WB urethane clear. Put on 7 or 8 thin coats of that.
With this process I'll never have to spray a solvent based product.
There is a 2K WB clear available. I'm not sure if the solvent based one is better. My guess is no, given all of the advantages to using the WB.
I'm about to update the progress on my speaker build thread. Check that out for more details on using this paint (which I got yesterday).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=106736&perpage=25&pagenumber=4
That looks very good John. One thing I would note is that, whilst it's certainly more dangerous to spray, there is an exposure time issue.
I once primed something with 2K high solids auto primer, using a roller, and didn't feel good afterwards. Because the spraying is so much quicker, I have found I can take a deep breath, attack the item with the spray gun, retreat, take another breath and so on. That way you're never breathing in the fumes (assuming you're in an open space, not a sealed room).
I once primed something with 2K high solids auto primer, using a roller, and didn't feel good afterwards. Because the spraying is so much quicker, I have found I can take a deep breath, attack the item with the spray gun, retreat, take another breath and so on. That way you're never breathing in the fumes (assuming you're in an open space, not a sealed room).
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