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    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Posted new P-P power amp design

https://seasidechassisdesign.com/
Terry is the gent's name. Does a great job at a very reasonable price.
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I gotta ask, can you share a pic of it open, share the gauge and the price, if that is ok?
Fine looking Canadian content you have there
Here it is in it's unfinished glory. I was happy when I received this chassis and a bit distraught. The topside was riveted while the sides were tapped and screwed together. My thoughts were it was made exactly like an old school instrument amp chassis. It came with no bottom, feet etc. The rivets were removed and countersunk screws were in in minutes. $95.00 Canadian shipped.
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Hi everyone,
I'm at the point of buying tubes, populating the BRB and planning for transformers. My heart was set on 6HJ5 and 6GU5 combination but as you know the prices are getting stupid to the point of not being able to justify them. I read here (Our resident guru from TubeLab) that the 6HD5 will do an equal job. My talents are up to piecing this together following in the footsteps of those here but my knowledge is lacking in terms of tube pin outs. Will the 6HD5 work with the same mod as the 6HJ5? I'm also looking to go with the 2 x Antec AS-2T230, AN-0240 for bias and Edcor CXPP100-3.3K for outputs. Any comments?
Ron
 
The 6HJ5 and 6HD5 tubes should be the same internally with guts borrowed from the 6DQ5 octal tube. There is a minor pinout variation. The 6HJ5 has the cathode on pin 2 and G3 on pins 4 and 10. The 6HD5 has the cathode and G3 on pins 2, 4, and 10. Running a small jumper wire from pin 2 to pin 4 will make both tubes work in the board, assuming the board mods to use these tubes were done. Every 6HJ5 that I have seen was made by Raytheon regardless of the brand painted on the glass. They have the letters LYFA etched into the glass somewhere. I have seen Raytheon 6HD5's and 6HD5's from a Japanese manufacturer. I would not intermix the Japanese and Raytheon tubes in the same amp. There was something different about them, but I can't remember what it was. The red board in this photo is all that remain from my long term experiments with this board.
 

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Running a small jumper wire from pin 2 to pin 4 will make both tubes work in the board, assuming the board mods to use these tubes were done.
My apologies for not expressing my undying gratitude sooner! Thank you. I've made the mods as required and added the jumper. I dropped the hay for outputs and power minutes ago, finally deciding on 2 x Antek AS-2T230, 1 x AN-0240 for bias and 2 x Edcor CXPP100-4.2K. I'm hereby so poor I can't pay attention. I had better hide from my wife and re-read this thread again for the 3rd time 🙂 All kidding aside, the prices of things these days is bordering on abuse.
 
Mouser # 512-FQPF9N90CT
You should be good to go with that part. Looking at the datasheet, I don't see anything drastically different vs the 800v part I used (FQPF8N80CYDTU), other that the max. voltage and max. power rating.

Edit: FWIW, Digikey has the Mosfet listed on Pete's 50W monoblock BOM in stock (FQPF8N60CFT). I realize this doesn't help if you're ordering from Mouser, as the parts obsolete.

jeff
 
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