I've always wanted to build a guitar and finally got my act together to give it a try the year before covid hit. Since then we've also had a daughter, so the guitar has taken a loooong time. It's nearly complete though, so here are some pics.
It's built with UK wood, so the body is Horse Chestnut, the neck and back(!) are flamed Sycamore and the fretboard is Laburnum.
The body is inspired by a few of my favourite guitars. Bits of Mustang, Melody Maker and 335. Maybe even a little Red Special. It's semi hollow and thin as I wanted it light.
24" scale length, fretboard radius is compound 10" - 14". Frets are stainless and there is a zero fret as I loved learning on my dads old Eko Ranger 6 with a zero fret. It's both a wide and deep neck out of preference - measuring 45mm at the nut.
I wanted a narrow headstock and straight string pull, so the tuners are Steinberger to make the layout work.
The pickups are rear mounted and height adjustable with springs/washers/bolt combo into brass inserts - this allows them to come out flush on the top with no mounting ring. They have white plastic covers which I know is a bit weird, but I really liked the white plastic covered pickups on an old Mustang I had.
Rather than have the fancy Sycamore top on the top, it's on the back - can't remember why anymore, but pickup covers are also formed from the same wood. If I was to do it again, I'd have a nice Sycamore top and bottom, and a hollow frame sandwiched between them.
I wanted to bind the whole thing, but didn't feel comfortable binding the neck as frets with bits nipped out from them just felt like a recipe for trouble. That was probably my only concession on the build. The finish is tinted shellac as I wanted a nice thin finish that wasn't too plasticky.
In the final stages of wiring now, which is pretty standard, two volume, two tone, 3 way switch. But just for a final flourish, there will be a coil split via no-load blend pots for each pickup. It plays really nicely unplugged and although it's not perfect here and there, I'm really proud how it's turned out.
It's built with UK wood, so the body is Horse Chestnut, the neck and back(!) are flamed Sycamore and the fretboard is Laburnum.
The body is inspired by a few of my favourite guitars. Bits of Mustang, Melody Maker and 335. Maybe even a little Red Special. It's semi hollow and thin as I wanted it light.
24" scale length, fretboard radius is compound 10" - 14". Frets are stainless and there is a zero fret as I loved learning on my dads old Eko Ranger 6 with a zero fret. It's both a wide and deep neck out of preference - measuring 45mm at the nut.
I wanted a narrow headstock and straight string pull, so the tuners are Steinberger to make the layout work.
The pickups are rear mounted and height adjustable with springs/washers/bolt combo into brass inserts - this allows them to come out flush on the top with no mounting ring. They have white plastic covers which I know is a bit weird, but I really liked the white plastic covered pickups on an old Mustang I had.
Rather than have the fancy Sycamore top on the top, it's on the back - can't remember why anymore, but pickup covers are also formed from the same wood. If I was to do it again, I'd have a nice Sycamore top and bottom, and a hollow frame sandwiched between them.
I wanted to bind the whole thing, but didn't feel comfortable binding the neck as frets with bits nipped out from them just felt like a recipe for trouble. That was probably my only concession on the build. The finish is tinted shellac as I wanted a nice thin finish that wasn't too plasticky.
In the final stages of wiring now, which is pretty standard, two volume, two tone, 3 way switch. But just for a final flourish, there will be a coil split via no-load blend pots for each pickup. It plays really nicely unplugged and although it's not perfect here and there, I'm really proud how it's turned out.
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Turbobork, looks like good work! Building a guitar to your own design really makes it your own. Factories don't always get it right. And, at least for me, experimentation has been the best lutherie education. No shame in using plastic PU covers! They're magnetically transparent. Anyway, it looks great!
BeaufortRalph, I like it! Wondering what pot & cap values you have in mind. And the finish? I don't envy you working in ash, it's a challenge. Love the neck & diamond inlays. Keep us posted.
BeaufortRalph, I like it! Wondering what pot & cap values you have in mind. And the finish? I don't envy you working in ash, it's a challenge. Love the neck & diamond inlays. Keep us posted.
I certainly posted it already... 😉
At the start, an obscure 60s cheap generic Japanese derelict, direct from trash 😕... The whole set, as is :
Once rebuilt, and LH-ized :
The woodwork and refinish are the skills of an Amateur-Luthier pal, while I am responsible of the rest : hardware, assembly, electronics, setup...
My Orange Blossom Special sounds fine, stays in tune, and sings as if she wanted to thank me to have offered her a new life... 😎
T
At the start, an obscure 60s cheap generic Japanese derelict, direct from trash 😕... The whole set, as is :
Once rebuilt, and LH-ized :
The woodwork and refinish are the skills of an Amateur-Luthier pal, while I am responsible of the rest : hardware, assembly, electronics, setup...
My Orange Blossom Special sounds fine, stays in tune, and sings as if she wanted to thank me to have offered her a new life... 😎
T
Thanks @slerner ! 🙂
For the occasion, I have another one "Epic Resto" - as you said : a Lefty illegal Chinese thinline copy of a Grestch Tennessee Rose, bought as is for less-than-peanuts, at a local flea market. The seller was desperated because he could not sell it : a left-handed model ! What the heck ? He was even ready to trash it...
See it below, at the Left, side to side with my regular Gretsch Tennessee Rose G6119LH :
And then...
... I changed her miserable life for an Improbable Custom Fake Lefty Gretsch new fame !
The woodwork and refinish is always the skills of one of my Luthier pal, and I am responsible of the design, the hardware and the electronics. The little silver Graf Zeppelin LZ127 on the pickguard comes directly from the Zeppelin Museum, of Friedrichshafen, Germany.
Ad just like my Orange Blossom Special, my Silver Zepp sounds fine, stays in tune, and sings as if she wanted to thank me to have offered her a new life...
T
Thanks @Havoc !
Yes, I have the chance to have two friends that are - one amateur, one pro, but both talented - Luthier friends...
Here's a build from scratch instrument from one of them, the SuperCharger :
As usual, I am responsible for the design, the hardware and the electronics :
The finished instrument :
T
Thank you Guys ! 🙂
A trio of my DIY Scratchbuilt or Restorations :
You recognize the Orange blossom Special and the SuperCharger, topped above by the Minerva Verde :
My regular Danelectro DC-59 LH flanked by her two Improbable Sisters :
T
A trio of my DIY Scratchbuilt or Restorations :
You recognize the Orange blossom Special and the SuperCharger, topped above by the Minerva Verde :
My regular Danelectro DC-59 LH flanked by her two Improbable Sisters :
T
Another example of a "cheap guitar" restoration - still with the help of my Luthier pals :
Before : an unplayed, dirty, abandoned Epiphone Les Paul special LH, bought for nothing...
After : Daphne Blue
Here with some sisters of the same pedigree...
T
Before : an unplayed, dirty, abandoned Epiphone Les Paul special LH, bought for nothing...
After : Daphne Blue
Here with some sisters of the same pedigree...
T
Wow, a whole page of gorgeous guitars! Kudos to all of you.
I'll post my efforts at an acoustic and live with the embarrassment when I find time to pull out the project box... its been a marathon
I'll post my efforts at an acoustic and live with the embarrassment when I find time to pull out the project box... its been a marathon
I made a Trainwreck Express (EL34) and its a beast. With post PI master volume and Tube FX loop. The volume pot is push pull for halve power.
Tubes are NOS, Mullard/Philips/Telefunken/RCA, EL34 are from EH.
Tubes are NOS, Mullard/Philips/Telefunken/RCA, EL34 are from EH.
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Nice work @democles ! 😎😎😎
I see that we use very similar construction style : studied parts placement, compacity, short wiring... And possibly the same parts suppliers ! 😉
What I note is that you don't seem to front power transformer induction problems with that big toroid. Possibly because your amp has a moderate gain ?
I have not been always so happy... On one of my amps, I have been forced to get rid of the toroid, because it was spreading hum induction and network parasitic / spike noises all around in an completely unacceptable manner :
Original build - unbearable :
Change of toroid, this time isolated from chassis, placed on an alumium 4mm thick plate and put under a 1mm steel cover for complete shielding - barely better :
Discarding toroids and shifting for an EI lamination transformer, suitably placed into 3mm aluminium wing - complete eradication of any hum / noises issue :
That said, my amp is a dual channel with high-gain type circuit, but despite that, even the loudspeaker itself (EVM12L) was affected by the toroid induction, with the amp off...
I must confess that it's the only time when I seriously met this awful noise / induction problem. I have built other guitar amps with toroids and did not fronted that issue :
compact design, put on chassis, no shielding of the toroid :
toroid placed out of chassis, like you did in your Trainwreck amp :
toroid placed on chassis, and shielded by aluminium adhesive foil wrapped around (not in the center) :
toroid in a tube phono preamp, also aluminium foil wrapped, and placed behind 2mm aluminium screens :
... To the point that I was ready to put absolute trust in the toroids - beware : was wrong ! 😕
T
I see that we use very similar construction style : studied parts placement, compacity, short wiring... And possibly the same parts suppliers ! 😉
What I note is that you don't seem to front power transformer induction problems with that big toroid. Possibly because your amp has a moderate gain ?
I have not been always so happy... On one of my amps, I have been forced to get rid of the toroid, because it was spreading hum induction and network parasitic / spike noises all around in an completely unacceptable manner :
Original build - unbearable :
Change of toroid, this time isolated from chassis, placed on an alumium 4mm thick plate and put under a 1mm steel cover for complete shielding - barely better :
Discarding toroids and shifting for an EI lamination transformer, suitably placed into 3mm aluminium wing - complete eradication of any hum / noises issue :
That said, my amp is a dual channel with high-gain type circuit, but despite that, even the loudspeaker itself (EVM12L) was affected by the toroid induction, with the amp off...
I must confess that it's the only time when I seriously met this awful noise / induction problem. I have built other guitar amps with toroids and did not fronted that issue :
compact design, put on chassis, no shielding of the toroid :
toroid placed out of chassis, like you did in your Trainwreck amp :
toroid placed on chassis, and shielded by aluminium adhesive foil wrapped around (not in the center) :
toroid in a tube phono preamp, also aluminium foil wrapped, and placed behind 2mm aluminium screens :
... To the point that I was ready to put absolute trust in the toroids - beware : was wrong ! 😕
T
Nice amps!!!!
I measured in advance what the best setup was with the least radiation of the power transformer.
Net voltage on the toroid and measure the radiated mV on the output transformer.
I measured in advance what the best setup was with the least radiation of the power transformer.
Net voltage on the toroid and measure the radiated mV on the output transformer.
In my phono amp i separated the power supply.
Toroid made by Toroidy have a intern shield that you ground.
Toroid made by Toroidy have a intern shield that you ground.
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Good job again @democles ! 😎 😎 😎
What kind of connectors do you use between your phono peamp and your separate supply ? They seem to be very compact...
Yes, I was thinking about following that same "separated supply" route as you did, for my next phono preamp.
For my SRPP Anzaï DIY preamp, I wanted to stay monoblock...
... Like my Audio Research SP3A1 (which conversely uses a EI lamination transformer).
Obviously, it's better for compactness, but evidently also less favourable in terms of S/N ratio than separate units.
T
What kind of connectors do you use between your phono peamp and your separate supply ? They seem to be very compact...
Yes, I was thinking about following that same "separated supply" route as you did, for my next phono preamp.
For my SRPP Anzaï DIY preamp, I wanted to stay monoblock...
... Like my Audio Research SP3A1 (which conversely uses a EI lamination transformer).
Obviously, it's better for compactness, but evidently also less favourable in terms of S/N ratio than separate units.
T