With the mechanical spring loaded pumps, keep the soldering iron tip on the pin, place the pump tip over the pin and soldering iron tip, and then activate the pump. That has worked for me. The pump that I use is a Jonard DP-100, similar to the Edsyn Soldapllt, and it has a hard tip.
For small solder joints, I find desoldering braid is quite quick. I apply flux on the solder joint and wick and that helps quite a bit.
For small solder joints, I find desoldering braid is quite quick. I apply flux on the solder joint and wick and that helps quite a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4?th=1
That video of it in action = ohhhh yeeahhh
Actually, the techno song in the background of the solder sucker video is pretty sick.
Thank you for the link. Will see if I can get one 🙂
Recoil free suckers are nice.......
Recoil free suckers are nice.......
For EU-citizen this could be a possibility:
https://eleshop.eu/engineer-ss-02-desoldering-pump.html
They also show another product with combined iron/pump at a quite low price.
https://eleshop.eu/engineer-ss-02-desoldering-pump.html
They also show another product with combined iron/pump at a quite low price.
Oh so shiny... I'd probably go for it if I stayed in the EU. 🙂
Downunder, it is Soldapullt for me.... has been for the last 3 decades... with just a touch of fine machine oil inside to build that sucking force to the max. Great stuff.
Downunder, it is Soldapullt for me.... has been for the last 3 decades... with just a touch of fine machine oil inside to build that sucking force to the max. Great stuff.
I was using for decades regular pump with teflon tip, with short silicone tube as sleeve
work wonders
in last several years I'm using proper desoldering station, worth every penny, trice
work wonders
in last several years I'm using proper desoldering station, worth every penny, trice
Report time.
I.C's came in today.
I.C's swapped out (I did all three).
No different at all.
The relay tap was not due to ham fists tapping to hard, as gentle tapping on the main board in multiple areas has the same result of cracking noises.
So back to square one.
When I have a chance I'll have to pull the main board and look for broken tracks.
I doubt dry joins since it's a plate through board, then again, I have seen plate through bodges.
I'm getting too old and cranky to play these games.
I retired from repairs for a reason.
I.C's came in today.
I.C's swapped out (I did all three).
No different at all.
The relay tap was not due to ham fists tapping to hard, as gentle tapping on the main board in multiple areas has the same result of cracking noises.
So back to square one.
When I have a chance I'll have to pull the main board and look for broken tracks.
I doubt dry joins since it's a plate through board, then again, I have seen plate through bodges.
I'm getting too old and cranky to play these games.
I retired from repairs for a reason.
If you remove the gain module do you still get a pop? This may help isolate where it is coming from.
The same could be done with the volume module. From your testing it doesn't look like the modules.
The same could be done with the volume module. From your testing it doesn't look like the modules.
Wayne, Thank you, Seriously.
These things don't normally bother me, I must be having my 'man period' 🙂
With ugs modules removed and volume boards installed, the bulk of the noise is gone.
The cracking when tapping the board is gone.
The variable loud noise and popping is gone.
There is still what sounds like a missing earth low volume steady noise.
With ugs modules and volume boards removed, Same result as above.
With ugs modules installed and volume boards removed, all noises hissing popping is as per original fault.
All this is with the volume at '1' or above. Obviously since the output is (I'm assuming) shorted at '0'.
I noticed something today I haven't noticed with my x1. (does not mean it doesn't do it, I just have not noticed it)
Power it up, wind the volume up then down to zero to get the relays to activate (that's normal).
But, with this unit, when you turn the volume back up from mute, a few seconds later two relays click.
This only happens the first time, after that, there are only the expected relay activation clicks.
This does not affect the 'fault' noises as they are there the second you come off mute.
No idea if this has any relevance, just thought I'd mention it.
New Latches installed.
Overall pic minus ugs and volume boards.
Odd mark on C9. No physical signs of leakage, But I've never seen a panasonic with a stain in the sleeve. Obviously left channel, not the faulty channel.
I also noticed to my eye it looks like the entire board has been hand soldered or resoldered.
These things don't normally bother me, I must be having my 'man period' 🙂
With ugs modules removed and volume boards installed, the bulk of the noise is gone.
The cracking when tapping the board is gone.
The variable loud noise and popping is gone.
There is still what sounds like a missing earth low volume steady noise.
With ugs modules and volume boards removed, Same result as above.
With ugs modules installed and volume boards removed, all noises hissing popping is as per original fault.
All this is with the volume at '1' or above. Obviously since the output is (I'm assuming) shorted at '0'.
I noticed something today I haven't noticed with my x1. (does not mean it doesn't do it, I just have not noticed it)
Power it up, wind the volume up then down to zero to get the relays to activate (that's normal).
But, with this unit, when you turn the volume back up from mute, a few seconds later two relays click.
This only happens the first time, after that, there are only the expected relay activation clicks.
This does not affect the 'fault' noises as they are there the second you come off mute.
No idea if this has any relevance, just thought I'd mention it.
New Latches installed.
Overall pic minus ugs and volume boards.
Odd mark on C9. No physical signs of leakage, But I've never seen a panasonic with a stain in the sleeve. Obviously left channel, not the faulty channel.
I also noticed to my eye it looks like the entire board has been hand soldered or resoldered.
My friend (the owner) would've been using the xlr outputs.
But I'm currently using the rca outputs as the baby test amp I have is rca only.
I would Love the schematics please.
PM sent.
Thank you so much.
But I'm currently using the rca outputs as the baby test amp I have is rca only.
I would Love the schematics please.
PM sent.
Thank you so much.
Sent the schematics to you. I forgot how long ago I did these.
Wayne, Thank you. 
I have received your email and am very appreciative.
I shall post back with what I find.
It will take me a while though as I have several projects under way and need to clear a few out.
I have received your email and am very appreciative.
I shall post back with what I find.
It will take me a while though as I have several projects under way and need to clear a few out.
X1's are too easy; here is the cheat sheet
PS sources +/- 44 Vdc for the analog, 15V for the digital.
Pop the top on the control, look for +/- 32 Vdc at the test points on the right side of the UGS modules and 5V on pin 1 of the PROM on the FP.
IF you do not have proper voltages then someone "hot-swapped" the umbilical.
Rt side of the chassis 4 ea 15V regulators tricked into 33V by isolating the ground pin. Look for burned resistors next to the regulators
Next to the opto encoder volume control 5V regulator, same deal.
Change out regulators and any toasty looking resistors
IF the umbilical was hot swapped it frequently takes out the latches on the front panel too, change those. Sometimes the display
Popping coming out of mute, it's always the UGS, modules or no jumpers in the XLR input while running S/E.
Offset is adjusted on the modules, front most pot from signal ground to the tab of one of the ZVN devices
Noise, that too is always the modules, frequently the pots getting old and crusty.
Rear pot on the module set for minimum Thd+ noise (generally pretty close to mid band on the pot)
Swap modules front to back and back to front. Noise or popping follows the modules, then the fault is in the module.
All in you're looking at less than two hours of bench time to repair one, frequently half that.
Very rarely a drive transistor for the mute relay goes
99+% of the time that's it with the X1. Wayne built that one tough and reliable.
Cheers
Kent
PS sources +/- 44 Vdc for the analog, 15V for the digital.
Pop the top on the control, look for +/- 32 Vdc at the test points on the right side of the UGS modules and 5V on pin 1 of the PROM on the FP.
IF you do not have proper voltages then someone "hot-swapped" the umbilical.
Rt side of the chassis 4 ea 15V regulators tricked into 33V by isolating the ground pin. Look for burned resistors next to the regulators
Next to the opto encoder volume control 5V regulator, same deal.
Change out regulators and any toasty looking resistors
IF the umbilical was hot swapped it frequently takes out the latches on the front panel too, change those. Sometimes the display
Popping coming out of mute, it's always the UGS, modules or no jumpers in the XLR input while running S/E.
Offset is adjusted on the modules, front most pot from signal ground to the tab of one of the ZVN devices
Noise, that too is always the modules, frequently the pots getting old and crusty.
Rear pot on the module set for minimum Thd+ noise (generally pretty close to mid band on the pot)
Swap modules front to back and back to front. Noise or popping follows the modules, then the fault is in the module.
All in you're looking at less than two hours of bench time to repair one, frequently half that.
Very rarely a drive transistor for the mute relay goes
99+% of the time that's it with the X1. Wayne built that one tough and reliable.
Cheers
Kent
And I bow to all of you 😛
Eventually, I will have time to compare this unit to Wayne's pdf's and also cyclotronguys write up.
Anyone want to sell me some time ? 🙂
Eventually, I will have time to compare this unit to Wayne's pdf's and also cyclotronguys write up.
Anyone want to sell me some time ? 🙂
Pretty sure "TIME" is a SKU in the McMaster-Carr catalog; but I've not found it yet! Shipping costs would be prohibitive.
Time keeps on slipping into the futuuuuuure...
I absolutely love it when the boss tells you too > 'make time'. Sure thing I'll just pluck it out of thin air will I.......
What I really want to know, is you see all these folks in shopping centres with small people in their trolleys, but I have never found the isle or shelf they are stored on.
Maybe they just sell out before I get there.
In other news, managed to spend a few minutes on this today.
The power supply voltages are fine.
The ugs +/- 32v are near enough to be considered fine (-33.4 +32.14 // -32.77 +32.64).
Decided to 'test' the ugs trimpots.
Gave them a small turn either way to clean/spread the conductive material. No noise while doing that.
Tapped the trimmers cases Very gently with the adjuster driver. Well, right channel did not like that at all. POP POP POP.
I've just ordered new pots. Ohhhhhh that infuriates me. Not the pots, the shipping and delay.
4 pots, ~$2.00 each. Including freight it comes to $37.57. Yes. 30 frikken dollars for 'Same day freight'.
And best still, e14 (the cheapest) still has to ship them from the uk.
Just HOW is it 'same day freight' when it has to come from the uk, with an eta of "UK stock available for 5-8 business days delivery" ??????
Sorry but this bs with local companies really gets me worked up.
I was going to used digikey, but their freight on such a small order was sadly worse than e14.
I need to touch up the ugs semi's soldering to get them to my level of happiness.
So in a few weeks or months, when ever I get them, I will post back as to the result.
Sorry for the slightly off topic rants 🙂
I absolutely love it when the boss tells you too > 'make time'. Sure thing I'll just pluck it out of thin air will I.......
What I really want to know, is you see all these folks in shopping centres with small people in their trolleys, but I have never found the isle or shelf they are stored on.
Maybe they just sell out before I get there.
In other news, managed to spend a few minutes on this today.
The power supply voltages are fine.
The ugs +/- 32v are near enough to be considered fine (-33.4 +32.14 // -32.77 +32.64).
Decided to 'test' the ugs trimpots.
Gave them a small turn either way to clean/spread the conductive material. No noise while doing that.
Tapped the trimmers cases Very gently with the adjuster driver. Well, right channel did not like that at all. POP POP POP.
I've just ordered new pots. Ohhhhhh that infuriates me. Not the pots, the shipping and delay.
4 pots, ~$2.00 each. Including freight it comes to $37.57. Yes. 30 frikken dollars for 'Same day freight'.
And best still, e14 (the cheapest) still has to ship them from the uk.
Just HOW is it 'same day freight' when it has to come from the uk, with an eta of "UK stock available for 5-8 business days delivery" ??????
Sorry but this bs with local companies really gets me worked up.
I was going to used digikey, but their freight on such a small order was sadly worse than e14.
I need to touch up the ugs semi's soldering to get them to my level of happiness.
So in a few weeks or months, when ever I get them, I will post back as to the result.
Sorry for the slightly off topic rants 🙂
UGS before and afters while I wait for some trimpots to arrive.
One of the trimpots just about fell apart when I removed it.
Surprising as I've never had a bourns fail.
All transistors needed to be de-soldered and resoldered to ensure a clean joint.
Two of the smd transistors needed to be removed and have their legs scraped to clean metal, before being resoldered.
I'm getting to old and 'broken' for this level of work.
I'm not super happy with the result, but under a maglamp it looks serviceable.
One of the trimpots just about fell apart when I removed it.
Surprising as I've never had a bourns fail.
All transistors needed to be de-soldered and resoldered to ensure a clean joint.
Two of the smd transistors needed to be removed and have their legs scraped to clean metal, before being resoldered.
I'm getting to old and 'broken' for this level of work.
I'm not super happy with the result, but under a maglamp it looks serviceable.