Yes - thanks, Mark.
The 2.2uH inductors you specified seem to have a resistance of 10mohm ... so even with my 50mohm resistors (and the cable), I should be within the 150mohm limit you specified.
Andy
A great device very useful put it every-where I'm thinking 1 on each channel of AJ just before PCB as well is that workable ?
I put one of these in front of each VFET amp channel, with great results (and in front of many other devices).
Don't know what PS requirements you have, but as long as sticking below 3A & 48V, and the outputs aren't connected together in parallel (which is what you meant I guess), should be a no brainer.
Claude
Don't know what PS requirements you have, but as long as sticking below 3A & 48V, and the outputs aren't connected together in parallel (which is what you meant I guess), should be a no brainer.
Claude
You would need two per channel of an Aleph J, because the Aleph J has positive and negative rails.
I have a very curious issue using this with my B1Korg. I have two of these filters in series in a little box with a flying lead so that I can use it on all of my various preamps and headphone amps. It has been a positive addition to every device so far.
With the B1Korg, I can hear a low level wasp-like buzz when it's connected. It disappears once the filter is removed. Has anyone else had this experience?
With the B1Korg, I can hear a low level wasp-like buzz when it's connected. It disappears once the filter is removed. Has anyone else had this experience?
Nope, works perfectly well in my case...
B1K is quite transparent, especialy once tweaked, perhaps a solder joint or rather a connexion isn't perfect and you can hear it (= buzz)? Do you have that when you plug only one single filter... and then regardless the filter you use? If so, connexions are likely the cause, or casing etc.
On another note, whereas daisy chaining 2 filters for the B1K didn't bring any negative in my set up, I found that 1 filter was working just aswell for the B1K. All IME of course...
Claude
B1K is quite transparent, especialy once tweaked, perhaps a solder joint or rather a connexion isn't perfect and you can hear it (= buzz)? Do you have that when you plug only one single filter... and then regardless the filter you use? If so, connexions are likely the cause, or casing etc.
On another note, whereas daisy chaining 2 filters for the B1K didn't bring any negative in my set up, I found that 1 filter was working just aswell for the B1K. All IME of course...
Claude
6-way filter board completed - see pic.
(For 3x 5v Meanwells and 3x 12v Meanwells.)
Now waiting for the case to arrive from Modushop. 🙂
Thanks for posting the design, Mark.
Andy
Attachments
At that rate you will build more filters than me: only 2 more of these and you are done 🙂
On another note, is it me or haven't you used the recommended parts?
Good luck with your build
Claude
On another note, is it me or haven't you used the recommended parts?
Good luck with your build
Claude
If these work well, I will build 1 more - for the 48v Meanwell which powers my TT motor controller. 🙂
Good pickup - yes, some parts are different:
1. the 470uF caps are Epcos (low ESR with a higher temperature rating)
2. I used 0.05 ohm Ohmite resistors instead of the ones Mark had specified.
Andy
The Modushop case arrived for my 6-way LCLC filter - so it is now complete. 🙂
I have re-posted the pic of the top side of the cct board ... and have added pics of:
One thing I have discovered - that I feel obliged to have to put right by building my own output DC cables - is that the pre-made cables that I had bought (having 2.1mm barrel plugs already attached) ... use much too thin wire (26g?). 🙁 I will feel happier using 20g solid-core wire for the DC feed.
Again - thanks Mark for the design.
Now to see if I can notice any difference in sound with it in place. 🙂
Andy
Andy
I have re-posted the pic of the top side of the cct board ... and have added pics of:
- the underside (showing the p-t-p wiring)
- the front
- and the back.
One thing I have discovered - that I feel obliged to have to put right by building my own output DC cables - is that the pre-made cables that I had bought (having 2.1mm barrel plugs already attached) ... use much too thin wire (26g?). 🙁 I will feel happier using 20g solid-core wire for the DC feed.
Again - thanks Mark for the design.
Now to see if I can notice any difference in sound with it in place. 🙂
Andy
Andy
A very lovely enclosure! Congratulations.
One way to get barrel connectors with heavy gauge wires, is to buy them already pre-built into cables. For example, I bought the one below, specifically because its conductors are size 18-AWG. Cut to desired length, strip off the insulation, done.
DC power adapter extension cable @ Amazon
One way to get barrel connectors with heavy gauge wires, is to buy them already pre-built into cables. For example, I bought the one below, specifically because its conductors are size 18-AWG. Cut to desired length, strip off the insulation, done.
DC power adapter extension cable @ Amazon
Thanks, Mark.
That's the same link that you posted in Post #1, right?
Which is what I think I ordered (unfortunately, Amazon is not showing the transaction where I ordered the cables, in my history 🙁 ).
Have you cut one open? (If so, Jeff Bozo could've selected the wrong part when he shipped it to me.)
Andy
That's the same link that you posted in Post #1, right?
Which is what I think I ordered (unfortunately, Amazon is not showing the transaction where I ordered the cables, in my history 🙁 ).
Have you cut one open? (If so, Jeff Bozo could've selected the wrong part when he shipped it to me.)
Andy
Aah, I've now been able to find my Amazon order - no, I ordered something different. 🙁
So now I will order the ones you've posted.
EDIT: Aaaagh, they won't ship to Oz! Damn! 🙁
Thanks,
Andy
Still you are better off than before. First, you are now aware they do exist. Second, you know that "2.1 x 5.5" and "18AWG" are excellent character strings to use in subsequent searches. Plus all of their likely permutations, such as 18-AWG and AWG18 and AWG-18 and 5.5x2.1 ... et cetera
Andy - what a wonderful device!! I suspect there are more people who could use something like that in their rack and I hope to see more like it.
Well done!!
Well done!!
True! 👍 Have not found any alternatives in Oz to the 18g extension cables that you posted a link to (that won't deliver to Oz) but I have found 5.5/2.1 barrel plugs which have a screw connection for the wires - see here:
https://www.led-shop.com.au/shop/dc-connector/
This enables me to use wire which I already have - which is 1mm^2 in area (so slightly thicker than 18g - which I believe is 0.8mm^2 in area?)! 🙂
So that's what I will do in the new year.
Andy
Hello.
I tried to buy one of these for my op-amp active crossover (I have an Altec Lansing 17vdc 2A SMPS wallwart from a powered loudspeaker),
but the DIY Store says "Sold out".
Other than scratch-building a circuit board, are there any suggestions for filtering the output, or do you think it's even necessary for this supply?
Thanks
I tried to buy one of these for my op-amp active crossover (I have an Altec Lansing 17vdc 2A SMPS wallwart from a powered loudspeaker),
but the DIY Store says "Sold out".
Other than scratch-building a circuit board, are there any suggestions for filtering the output, or do you think it's even necessary for this supply?
Thanks
You could use 1/8" teflon sheet as a 'board' to hold the components - and then do ptp wiring on the underside. Have a look at my post #811.
Yes, I would think this filter would improve your Altec Lansing wallwart.
Andy