A lot of equipment over the years looked cool, but didn't play cool. The sound was mesmerizing, but completely flat, no any 3D sound with deep separation.
My first revelation came when I connected something like a very good Denon with good wires, but it still played just as flat. Unlike PS1, or Rega. I really liked Rega at the time, both the sound and design, just like Cyrus. There were many good devices, but even more that had nothing to do with good sound.
Regarding the old Philips, you can actually get good sound from them, but from models of the more recent 7*-8* series.
Everything is quite relative. But when you have a sensitive system with good wires, you can convince that some old Tops are quite meager at this time. Yes, they play well, but it's educational when you start going deeper with them and realize that's their ceiling. All. Unlike the same PS1. How much you put into it, that's how it plays. It's weird as hell, but it's true. This is a upgrading treasure. Of course, also up to the level of limitation. But he is quite tall.
The irony is that quite a few early CD players used R2R decoders, but these were later considered not accurate enough.
The irony is that quite a few early CD players used R2R decoders, but these were later considered not accurate enough.
Perfection and precision are not always close. Often this is a special mix of advantages and disadvantages
Perfection and precision are not always close. Often this is a special mix of advantages and disadvantages
By the way, it was noticed that increasing the input HV capacitance neutralizes the influence of the power cable. That is, you begin to hear not the power cable, but the capacitor presentation itself. So I would not recommend greatly increasing the capacity, since you are depriving yourself of the pleasure of using different power cables.
If laser generally reads normally, but sometimes gets off track, try increasing the gain voltage (from 1.7V to 1.75-1.78V) with same offset on 1.82-1.85V.
Overall I would stick to a slightly higher gain 1.73-1.75V.
Also, for those who want to equalize the tonal balance, I recommend changing the cross-section at the power input from IEC to power supply board. It is recommended to use at least 20AWG conductors for neutral balance. To achieve lower tonal balance (downward bias) with extended bass and lower mids, 16AWG is recommended.
Overall I would stick to a slightly higher gain 1.73-1.75V.
Also, for those who want to equalize the tonal balance, I recommend changing the cross-section at the power input from IEC to power supply board. It is recommended to use at least 20AWG conductors for neutral balance. To achieve lower tonal balance (downward bias) with extended bass and lower mids, 16AWG is recommended.
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Short list of modifications:
- Case painted matte black
- Chassis coated with copper foil for improved shielding
- The power supply casing is covered with copper foil and additionally grounded to the main shield
- The input socket was replaced with Furutech copper gold plated
- Power wires replaced with Neotech UP-OCC multistrand copper and copper silver plated wire, also Neotech UP-OCC copper solid core wire
- The buffer cap has been replaced with Mundorf MLytic, also bypassed with Mundorf Silver-Gold cap
- The power supply has been upgraded with capacitors of the following series: Wima MKP10, Nichicon KA, Nichicon ES Muse.
- Factory fuse replaced with audio grade fuse
- Factory audio video connectors removed
- The analogue part of the output has been removed
- Signal wiring replaced with Neotech UP-OCC silver solid core wire
- Blocking capacitors have been replaced with Mundorf Silver-Gold cap
- RCA Connectors replaced with KLE Innovations
- Kiwame resistors installed
- Installed Duelund ground wire
- The remote control transmitter is integrated into the case
- Decorative front panel installed
- Damping supports replaced
- The remote control has been modified
Attachments
It looks amazing! is it the Maston Camouflage Spray Paint in Ultra Matt Black RAL9005 ? Did you use any primer before painting ? Thank you.
I accidentally purchased this paint (Halfords Camouflage Spray Paint Black 300ml), and I liked it so much that I have already used many cans, and I think I will buy more in reserve while they last. This paint is unlike any matte black I've seen before. It has a very interesting shade.
It absorbs light, but isn't so charcoal that it looks like a stain. It has a soft touch effect. No primers are required.
But it is still advisable for you to use fine sandpaper (400+) before doing this if you want to achieve a perfect surface without scratches.
Also (due to the soft touch) it like scratches, grease and anything that can damage the coating. But if you use it responsibly, it is difficult to damage it.
It's worth it.
You can also reapply layers on top of previous ones without any visible differences. In other words, refresh the coating (so it’s worth having a spare one).
It absorbs light, but isn't so charcoal that it looks like a stain. It has a soft touch effect. No primers are required.
But it is still advisable for you to use fine sandpaper (400+) before doing this if you want to achieve a perfect surface without scratches.
Also (due to the soft touch) it like scratches, grease and anything that can damage the coating. But if you use it responsibly, it is difficult to damage it.
It's worth it.
You can also reapply layers on top of previous ones without any visible differences. In other words, refresh the coating (so it’s worth having a spare one).
Many thanks mate. I placed an order for two of them from local Halfords. Will go collect tomorrow and try painting mine over the weekent. I'll reply back with a pic once done (if I dont make a mess haha).
Have a great weekend.
Have a great weekend.
wow cool thread/topic, i never noticed it so far
nice builds 🙂 really cool to make something old useful again
nice builds 🙂 really cool to make something old useful again
Hi mfgroup,
Can you explain the 'cable lifters' and perhaps what advantages they have over placing cables on the floor, like I currently have.
Thanks Richard
I wonder whether there could be more gems like this, tho i guess the beauty about the old PS1 design is, that its probably more easly modable (and there is actual information around it)
Hi, Richard. I know that many here like numbers, so I will provide data from the manufacturer.
It seems to me that the whole point is in the additional capacitance, which works as a filter (together with the inductance and capacitance of the cable itself).
On my own behalf, I’ll add that a cable lying on the floor feels dull and indistinct, more blurred, and loses dynamics and its airiness.
Accordingly, decouplings towers give good resolutions improve clarity, focus, and remove some blurriness. Peak sounds in the dynamics are handled well, and high frequencies are separated very well. An even bigger advantage is that they normalize the tonal balance. In general, this is what good decouplings should do.
The funny thing is that it even works on cables that are just hanging in the air (although this is the best option if there are no decouplings). Apparently the point is that the cable under its own weight has nonlinear stresses along its entire length due to weight or touching something. The uniform arrangement on the supports compensates for this. And yes, again, this sounds funny, but they also improve the sound of a cable hanging in the air (I mean those cases when the cables are twisted into rings or something else to prevent them from touching the floor). Of course, this does not work on short cables that do not require supports.
