Hi,
I'm glad it worked ... these little machines are very robust and they sound very good too! Regarding cleaning CDs, I just rotate them on whatever I am wearing! Nothing hi-tech about this ... just make sure fingerprints are gone. Scratches I have never tried to remove. I have found that th settling time of the laser gives a pretty good idea about the state of the cd, from the laser/PS1 point of view. The longer it takes then either the more trouble with that cd or poor setting of the voltage. If you set the voltage too high then settling time becomes infinite, it just keeps trying and failing.
I'm glad it worked ... these little machines are very robust and they sound very good too! Regarding cleaning CDs, I just rotate them on whatever I am wearing! Nothing hi-tech about this ... just make sure fingerprints are gone. Scratches I have never tried to remove. I have found that th settling time of the laser gives a pretty good idea about the state of the cd, from the laser/PS1 point of view. The longer it takes then either the more trouble with that cd or poor setting of the voltage. If you set the voltage too high then settling time becomes infinite, it just keeps trying and failing.
I may never buy another cd player as the more I listen the better it gets.And so far still no skipping and reading disks perfectly.Unlike the denon I currently own and Rotel cd player that I sold this little player makes listeng for hours on end enjoyable.I am going to buy another off of ebay as a backup and have ordered a remote as it is a pain to use the wired reomte.
I am thinking of getting a small 5 of 6 inch monitor to hook it up to so I do not have to keep changing inputs on the tv.Any suggestions on a cheap little monitor.Thanks.
I am thinking of getting a small 5 of 6 inch monitor to hook it up to so I do not have to keep changing inputs on the tv.Any suggestions on a cheap little monitor.Thanks.
Ps2
I have tried using my fat ps2 (scph-50001) and well i must say... no words can describe how bad it is. I tried the optical digital output running into a dac and it still sounds like garbage. Its not just that model either. All fat ps2s including slimline sound compressed and tinny where as the old ps1s sound a bit compressed but not tinny. Ps3 sounds way better than a ps2 does, infact its pretty good. I dont know what it is with ps2 but if anyone out there is thinking of trying it as a cd player... you are in for a big disapointment.🙁
I have tried using my fat ps2 (scph-50001) and well i must say... no words can describe how bad it is. I tried the optical digital output running into a dac and it still sounds like garbage. Its not just that model either. All fat ps2s including slimline sound compressed and tinny where as the old ps1s sound a bit compressed but not tinny. Ps3 sounds way better than a ps2 does, infact its pretty good. I dont know what it is with ps2 but if anyone out there is thinking of trying it as a cd player... you are in for a big disapointment.🙁
It's been two days since I connected my PS1 ( aka Top Loading Wadia 😀) to my recently acquired Yaqin Tube Buffer. The power cord is a PS Audio C-7 for my PS-1 and a generic 12awg power cord for the Yaqin. I don't know for the other mods people are doing here, but the sound really improved with the buffer. I noticed more distinguished details and deeper/wider soundstage. Not perfect BUT... for around $120 I got a Top Loading Player with a Tube Output....🙂
Jose
Hi
Does enyone know how may I connect the bck,data,lrck in my cd player direct into bck,lrck, data in PSX AK4909 DAC, im trying this but this is not excatly working, i got some noise, but i connect not directly into dacs legs but in other side of the psx PCB i found three points of soldering that i think are leading to lrck,bcfk,data of the psx DAC. Maybe in this forum has someone descriebed that ??? Would you please give me the link. (sorry for my english)
Does enyone know how may I connect the bck,data,lrck in my cd player direct into bck,lrck, data in PSX AK4909 DAC, im trying this but this is not excatly working, i got some noise, but i connect not directly into dacs legs but in other side of the psx PCB i found three points of soldering that i think are leading to lrck,bcfk,data of the psx DAC. Maybe in this forum has someone descriebed that ??? Would you please give me the link. (sorry for my english)
The removeable plate that covers the laser module and the guides. Exhange the top plates between the PSone and the PS-1. The rest fits perfectly. Put the laser module thing from the PSone (with the PS-1 top plate) back into the SCPH-1001 PS-1.
That, and replacing the rectifier diodes on the PSU with FREDs, and upping all (almost) the capacitances on the PSU, are the extent of my mods. And it sounds *good*
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I've a couple of questions:
1. Is it possible to take the audio directly from the DAC bypassing everything else and sending it straight to my stereo?
2. Shouldn't the SCPH-550X PS1's be slightly better than SCPH-100X because the CD mechanism is further away from the power supply therefore less interference ?
3. I'm going to buy some Coax RCA cables soon, any reason that they won't be good to use between my AMP and equalizer?
4. Would putting EMI suppressors on my RCA cables have a noticeable effect?
Let's see if my message actually get posted
1. Is it possible to take the audio directly from the DAC bypassing everything else and sending it straight to my stereo?
2. Shouldn't the SCPH-550X PS1's be slightly better than SCPH-100X because the CD mechanism is further away from the power supply therefore less interference ?
3. I'm going to buy some Coax RCA cables soon, any reason that they won't be good to use between my AMP and equalizer?
4. Would putting EMI suppressors on my RCA cables have a noticeable effect?
Let's see if my message actually get posted
1: Should be possible, but not easy
2: I doubt that the relocated CD mech. would have any improvement
3: Shouldn't be worse...
4: I doubt it...
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Hi Martin,
1: I have done this .... but I did remove subsequent components to reduce the chance of interference. You need to be sure that the pre-amp has a decoupling capacitor or else DC might enter your system. It is easier to connect to the capacitor pads than the pins on the DAC chip.
2: I think interference from the cd mechanism is a red herring. Nothing noticeable at all. There is heat problem from the electronics driving the CD mechanism, hence the out-boarding of the power supply
3: Don't see a problem other than the usual religious debates about cables
4: No idea.. but avoidance is better than a cure
1: I have done this .... but I did remove subsequent components to reduce the chance of interference. You need to be sure that the pre-amp has a decoupling capacitor or else DC might enter your system. It is easier to connect to the capacitor pads than the pins on the DAC chip.
2: I think interference from the cd mechanism is a red herring. Nothing noticeable at all. There is heat problem from the electronics driving the CD mechanism, hence the out-boarding of the power supply
3: Don't see a problem other than the usual religious debates about cables
4: No idea.. but avoidance is better than a cure
Just wondering why replacing the PS1 Power Supply with another kind is better, why is the stock Power supply not so great. Are there any modifications that could be done to it rather than creating a whole new one?
Make sure there is a capacitor at the input of the following amp as the DAC sends out DC!
I've done all the Feuerbacher mods on a 1001 and have proper settings, but the unit has problems reading my Taiyo CD-Rs. Pressed CDs play fine. This site suggests increasing the bias a bit, is this the way to go?
http://www.cyber-mag.com/station/laserPSX.htm#sectA
http://www.cyber-mag.com/station/laserPSX.htm#sectA
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I have found that the recommended bias, gain and laser intensity settings in Mick's Web site don't always work. For some reason, some consoles won't work at all with the recommeded settings. You sometimes have to identify one or two troublesome CD-R and work with all three settings until you can get the laser unit to read the CD-R. It takes a lot of time to optimize all three by trial and error.
Another possible solution is to work on the burn speeds for burning CD-Rs. The slowest burn rate isn't always best.
If the sound quality of a modded Playstation wasn't so rewarding, this trouble wouldn't be worth it.
Another possible solution is to work on the burn speeds for burning CD-Rs. The slowest burn rate isn't always best.
If the sound quality of a modded Playstation wasn't so rewarding, this trouble wouldn't be worth it.
Sure. replace the rectifying diode with soft/fast recovery diodes, and replace all (but not the smallest one) the power supply caps with ones of larger capacitance (buy quality). You can also put a ferrite bead on the main chopper diode of the SMPS PSU.
Blue LED
Could someone explain to me what the blue LED modification is all about?
I noticed it mentioned early in this thread and not sure what it's for.
Could someone explain to me what the blue LED modification is all about?
I noticed it mentioned early in this thread and not sure what it's for.
Hi there.
Been reading this site on and off for years, and saw this thread ages ago too, but kind of didn't really think much about it.
Tidying up the other day, came across a ps1 in the cupboard.
Doesn't sound offensive with a couple of nicer by-pass caps in.
Kind of interested in giving it a linear psu (smps are only ever used as cost compromise).
Lokked through hundreds of pages here, and else where, and I'm under the impression that the dac has it's voltage rail derived from the 7.6 where the motor is controlled from.
Would it not be better to supply a separate 5v rail just for the dac, thus removing the artifacts that the motor will leave on the rail?
Also, I am under the impression that the dac only recieves 3.6v.
Surely running it at 5v, as it's data sheet confirms is possible, will yield a bigger voltage swing at the output.
Highly impressed at some of the work exhibited on here. 10/10 guys
Bernie
Been reading this site on and off for years, and saw this thread ages ago too, but kind of didn't really think much about it.
Tidying up the other day, came across a ps1 in the cupboard.
Doesn't sound offensive with a couple of nicer by-pass caps in.
Kind of interested in giving it a linear psu (smps are only ever used as cost compromise).
Lokked through hundreds of pages here, and else where, and I'm under the impression that the dac has it's voltage rail derived from the 7.6 where the motor is controlled from.
Would it not be better to supply a separate 5v rail just for the dac, thus removing the artifacts that the motor will leave on the rail?
Also, I am under the impression that the dac only recieves 3.6v.
Surely running it at 5v, as it's data sheet confirms is possible, will yield a bigger voltage swing at the output.
Highly impressed at some of the work exhibited on here. 10/10 guys
Bernie
