Mick_F said:
Hi,
a nice quote concerning this matter:
"....I do know that the audio world is "enriched" with a lot of so called " armchair audiophiles"..and that is how it always was.
Do you want to find out with your own ears? Heat up your soldering iron and find out for yourself...."
Triode Dick (www.triodedick.com)
Peter
How is everybody going with Miick's new power supply?
Any more built yet?
I am in the process of accumulating parts but still need to decide on which traffo/s I am going to use.
It would be great to here peoples impression of the PS1 with linear supply.
Keep up the good work Mick.
Any more built yet?
I am in the process of accumulating parts but still need to decide on which traffo/s I am going to use.
It would be great to here peoples impression of the PS1 with linear supply.
Keep up the good work Mick.
I have a PSU up and running. The 3.6V regulator gets quite hot despite a rather large heatsink, as mentioned by Mick. I use three paralleled 5W resistors, which might be overkill. I will probably replace them with a 4A, 1-5mH common mode choke, type these: http://www.coilws.com/emi_linefilters.html
It's great. I have no complaints whatsoever.
It's great. I have no complaints whatsoever.
Hi,
I only found this thread, as well as Mick Feuerbacher's website, very recently (thanks to the article on sixmoons), and managed to get myself one one epay for about £13 including postage. Sounds great, but the ease of losing exactly where you are on a CD (especially an unfamiliar one) is a little annoying! I got a little remote (very similar to that on Mick's website infact). If you plug a TV in, you get a screen with track listing, repeat options etc. in a grid which you navigate around using the up/down/left/right/OK buttons. I don't particularly want to have to get a TV. However, as each press of a button moves the cursor a single square on the grid, I thought that it might be possible to use a learning remote with macro functionality and program in a sequence of keystrokes for each function. It would probably be rather cumbersome, because you'd need to make sure you got the cursor back to a start-point each time, but if it worked, it would be very useful. I don't have a remote that could do that yet (I don't even know if learning remotes can learn so many keystrokes for a macro), and I don't know if this is an old idea, but I thought I'd put it up here in case anyone had tried/wanted to try it.
As always, thank you to everyone for all the open ideas. Over the last 6 months or so I've got rid of nearly all my old mainstream hifi in favour of DIY (amp, speakers, turntable.) I really couldn't say exactly how/whether the sound has improved, but the sound is unquestionably good, and the pleasure I get from listening to it is huge.
Philip
I only found this thread, as well as Mick Feuerbacher's website, very recently (thanks to the article on sixmoons), and managed to get myself one one epay for about £13 including postage. Sounds great, but the ease of losing exactly where you are on a CD (especially an unfamiliar one) is a little annoying! I got a little remote (very similar to that on Mick's website infact). If you plug a TV in, you get a screen with track listing, repeat options etc. in a grid which you navigate around using the up/down/left/right/OK buttons. I don't particularly want to have to get a TV. However, as each press of a button moves the cursor a single square on the grid, I thought that it might be possible to use a learning remote with macro functionality and program in a sequence of keystrokes for each function. It would probably be rather cumbersome, because you'd need to make sure you got the cursor back to a start-point each time, but if it worked, it would be very useful. I don't have a remote that could do that yet (I don't even know if learning remotes can learn so many keystrokes for a macro), and I don't know if this is an old idea, but I thought I'd put it up here in case anyone had tried/wanted to try it.
As always, thank you to everyone for all the open ideas. Over the last 6 months or so I've got rid of nearly all my old mainstream hifi in favour of DIY (amp, speakers, turntable.) I really couldn't say exactly how/whether the sound has improved, but the sound is unquestionably good, and the pleasure I get from listening to it is huge.
Philip
I assume you didn't grow up with vinyl. Back then you actually learned album tracks by name and not by number.😀
Those things are what the parallel port is for. For example, when you plug in the Game Hunter/Action replay card the PSX starts instantly without the startup tune. But the card is for gaming, not CD playback.
The problem is that the people who can program these things have no interest in an antiquated gaming console, much less a gaming console as CD player.
Those things are what the parallel port is for. For example, when you plug in the Game Hunter/Action replay card the PSX starts instantly without the startup tune. But the card is for gaming, not CD playback.
The problem is that the people who can program these things have no interest in an antiquated gaming console, much less a gaming console as CD player.
phn said:
@ this port you can get the internal 1x FS I2S Signal in japanese format...great for nonos experiments with the TDA1545.....
Do you have a spare parallel port adapter for me?
Carsten
Mini-Headphone Amp with OPA2134
Hi all,
here an idea for a little headphone-amp (sorry, the site is in german), maybe for a PS-CDP recasing-project!?
http://www.loetstelle.net/projekte/opa2134headphone/opa2134headphone.php
Technical data (taken from the site above):
Regards Patrick
Hi all,
here an idea for a little headphone-amp (sorry, the site is in german), maybe for a PS-CDP recasing-project!?
http://www.loetstelle.net/projekte/opa2134headphone/opa2134headphone.php
Technical data (taken from the site above):
DISTORTION: 0.00008%
NOISE: 8nV/sqrt(Hz)
Input Current: IB = 5pA
SLEW RATE: 20V/µs
BANDWIDTH: 8MHz
OPEN-LOOP GAIN: 120dB (600ohm)
SUPPLY RANGE: ±2.5V to ±18V
Regards Patrick
Stock SMPS upgrades
Like Greg, I tried doing some upgrades on the stock smps. First I removed the small rectifier diodes and placed mur860s in their place, then I removed the stock 150uf 200v cap at the primary side of the transformer and replaced it with a rubycon 1000 uf 200v cap. Immediately, deeper bass was the first thing I noticed, not necessarily stronger, but deeper with a lot more authority. Second thing I noticed is the blacker background, less noise I guess? However, I need to ask you guys if it's advisable to place .1uf poly caps to bypass the large 1000uf cap? and what benefit, if any, is it to upgrade the five electrolytics after the trafos? Four of the electrolytics i think are 560ufs while one is around 150uf? I'm having a hard time looking for quality caps to replace these. Thanks for taking time out reading my querries. 🙂
Like Greg, I tried doing some upgrades on the stock smps. First I removed the small rectifier diodes and placed mur860s in their place, then I removed the stock 150uf 200v cap at the primary side of the transformer and replaced it with a rubycon 1000 uf 200v cap. Immediately, deeper bass was the first thing I noticed, not necessarily stronger, but deeper with a lot more authority. Second thing I noticed is the blacker background, less noise I guess? However, I need to ask you guys if it's advisable to place .1uf poly caps to bypass the large 1000uf cap? and what benefit, if any, is it to upgrade the five electrolytics after the trafos? Four of the electrolytics i think are 560ufs while one is around 150uf? I'm having a hard time looking for quality caps to replace these. Thanks for taking time out reading my querries. 🙂
Hi Mick_F,
could you explain the difference between the MUR860 and the MSR860? Where did you buy the MSR?
Thank you.
Regards Patrick
The MSR860 is a soft recovery diode especially designed for switch-mode power supplies. I have mine directly from OnSemi.
Mick
Mick
Mick, what are the disadvantages from using MURs instead of MSRs? I dont have any access for the MSRs in this part of the world. Is it going to be "noisier" or worse, a fire hazard? 😱 Btw, just noticed from the Onsemi site, they describe the MURs as: " ...designed for use in switching power supplies, inverters and as free wheeling diodes" so I guess its fine to leave them there? Thanks.
Of course you may also use the MURs, dont worry. I suggested the MSRs because they are well suited for the purpose and they were also recommended by other users (I remember a detailed discussion by Peter Daniel) for the use in supplies of digital sources.
Re: Stock SMPS upgrades
Hi D0Hbert,
some good ideas there. I tried to better filter the cables from PSU to motherboard, which seems to work quite well
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=800269#post800269
D0Hbert said:
Hi D0Hbert,
some good ideas there. I tried to better filter the cables from PSU to motherboard, which seems to work quite well
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=800269#post800269
Hi Mick,
the MSR860 also improves the sound for example pre-amplifiers. There was a thread in the Pass-forum from Peter Daniel. He compared the MSR860 to the MUR860. The MSR860 is the better one.
Please tell me where ON-Semi is situated in Germany.
Greetings from Vienna
Helmut
the MSR860 also improves the sound for example pre-amplifiers. There was a thread in the Pass-forum from Peter Daniel. He compared the MSR860 to the MUR860. The MSR860 is the better one.
Please tell me where ON-Semi is situated in Germany.
Greetings from Vienna
Helmut
I decided to check the PSX laser, intensity, biasing and gain.
I didn't get further than intensity. I get 1.5V, or more than 120 times as much as ideal! I get the same measurement between point "P" in Mick's photo and ground.
I stopped there. Either I measure things wrong or there's something not right about my PSX.
Edit: Just in case. Bias should be 1.7V. But as I understand it, I measure the intensity (the CDM trimmer) and not bias. I'm not yet quite sure where I measure bias and gain. But first thing first.
I didn't get further than intensity. I get 1.5V, or more than 120 times as much as ideal! I get the same measurement between point "P" in Mick's photo and ground.
I stopped there. Either I measure things wrong or there's something not right about my PSX.
Edit: Just in case. Bias should be 1.7V. But as I understand it, I measure the intensity (the CDM trimmer) and not bias. I'm not yet quite sure where I measure bias and gain. But first thing first.
PSX
my expierences with the psu : when i change the capacitor 47 micro farad 400 volt
in a greater one ( 150 micro ) , it's losing it's charming and natural sound in a more deep and blubb bass and that is'nt a realistic sound. I think SONY have done a good job. I changed the capacitor with a better and newer one, the same value !!! and that give me a other sound on ' mid tones ' , more softer but clear and also good bass tones, very realistic. It sounds very subtle and lovely. I bypass all the other caps with 0,1 micro.
First i take the output stage : the AV output. It sounds not bad.
Twice i take the output direct from the DAC with a 3,3 micro MKT .
It's much better in detail, but it's not so havy, it sounds not so loud, so
there is'nt a amplifier..... sorry, but the schema on the output stage ( given here on the site ) is not correct.
When I use a psx that is not ' handeld ' I mean on the output stage, the AV output is much louder than direct taken from the DAC. So there
must be an amplifier. This are my expierences.
I am looking for the best, it's take time...
my expierences with the psu : when i change the capacitor 47 micro farad 400 volt
in a greater one ( 150 micro ) , it's losing it's charming and natural sound in a more deep and blubb bass and that is'nt a realistic sound. I think SONY have done a good job. I changed the capacitor with a better and newer one, the same value !!! and that give me a other sound on ' mid tones ' , more softer but clear and also good bass tones, very realistic. It sounds very subtle and lovely. I bypass all the other caps with 0,1 micro.
First i take the output stage : the AV output. It sounds not bad.
Twice i take the output direct from the DAC with a 3,3 micro MKT .
It's much better in detail, but it's not so havy, it sounds not so loud, so
there is'nt a amplifier..... sorry, but the schema on the output stage ( given here on the site ) is not correct.
When I use a psx that is not ' handeld ' I mean on the output stage, the AV output is much louder than direct taken from the DAC. So there
must be an amplifier. This are my expierences.
I am looking for the best, it's take time...