Sorry for not checking this thread until now. I've made a note to look for that manual and scan it.
ok:
...I have find a electrical scheme and a short manual for my gm...
and I have read previous post but I don't understand how I can modify my gm120 for use it in a moderm car hifi... I know that someone have do this!!
What I can to do??
please help me
...I have find a electrical scheme and a short manual for my gm...
and I have read previous post but I don't understand how I can modify my gm120 for use it in a moderm car hifi... I know that someone have do this!!
What I can to do??
please help me
I've scanned the manual, but the schematic and overlay pages were each spread over two pages (overlapping). I'd like to combine them back to a single sheet. I don't have access to an 11x17 scanner to do them together.
Can someone suggest software that's good for stitching two scans together? I tried an opensource program that was intended for stitching together panoramic photos. It merged the two scans together OK at the edge, but the overall shape of the schematic ended up distorted.
Can someone suggest software that's good for stitching two scans together? I tried an opensource program that was intended for stitching together panoramic photos. It merged the two scans together OK at the edge, but the overall shape of the schematic ended up distorted.
You can do it in the GIMP (Google) but you'll have to do it manually.
Open a new file that's 11x17.
Drag each image into the window. Select the MOVE tool (4-way arrow) and align the images.
Save it as a GIF to retain the detail. Set the pallette to less than 256 colors (toolbar IMAGE >> MODE >> INDEXED - set to less than 256) to reduce the file size.
Open a new file that's 11x17.
Drag each image into the window. Select the MOVE tool (4-way arrow) and align the images.
Save it as a GIF to retain the detail. Set the pallette to less than 256 colors (toolbar IMAGE >> MODE >> INDEXED - set to less than 256) to reduce the file size.
Thanks for your work! But I have contacted Bahc and I have already modified and mounted the gm120 in car. However dangus send to me the material that you have scanned to androbi.et@libero.it ! thanks!
Here are the schematics for the GM. I just uploaded it, it's about 2.5MB.
http://rapidshare.com/files/32195174/PIONEER_GM_120.rar.html
Regards zeoN_Rider
http://rapidshare.com/files/32195174/PIONEER_GM_120.rar.html
Regards zeoN_Rider
I see zeoN_Rider uploaded the full manual already; well, here's the scans of mine for what it's worth as jpegs (just under 4 megs):
http://rapidshare.com/files/32670810/GM120_svc_manual.zip.html
http://rapidshare.com/files/32670810/GM120_svc_manual.zip.html
Hi Bob 2
I already tried to sent you a direct mail. But the Operator gives me allways the same answer. So I try to reach you this way.
I still have an original good Interconnector for your Pioneer Amplifier GM 120 to other Pioneer Components, named Pioneer CD-129. Let me know it if you are interested in.
Dieter Engelhardt
I already tried to sent you a direct mail. But the Operator gives me allways the same answer. So I try to reach you this way.
I still have an original good Interconnector for your Pioneer Amplifier GM 120 to other Pioneer Components, named Pioneer CD-129. Let me know it if you are interested in.
Dieter Engelhardt
Thanks to all who posted information on this amp. I was given one of these in the early '80s when someone else couldn't figure out how to use it. I modified it to work with any brand of tuner/tape unit and installed it in my car. It was miles ahead of the TA7205AP and TDA2002 or uPC1230 amplifiers that my friends were using at the time. I liked it well enough that I bought another one, built an active crossover and used the two amplifiers in an active setup in my car. This was probably 1985 or 1986, way before this setup was common in cars.
In 1987 the first amp dropped one channel so I had to repair it with no schematic or manuals and I can tell you first hand that these are not fun to work on. Tracing the circuit is difficult at best. They are, however, good enough amplifiers that I would still fix and use one today if I had need of a decent amplifier for automotive use.
When I measured the output of these amplifiers years ago the maximum output before clipping was 42 watts per channel, not 60. So I've always considered these to be 25 wpc amplifiers. That's more than adequate for music reproduction, unless you think it's necessary to try to achieve more than 110 dB in a car.
Best regards.
Wade
In 1987 the first amp dropped one channel so I had to repair it with no schematic or manuals and I can tell you first hand that these are not fun to work on. Tracing the circuit is difficult at best. They are, however, good enough amplifiers that I would still fix and use one today if I had need of a decent amplifier for automotive use.
When I measured the output of these amplifiers years ago the maximum output before clipping was 42 watts per channel, not 60. So I've always considered these to be 25 wpc amplifiers. That's more than adequate for music reproduction, unless you think it's necessary to try to achieve more than 110 dB in a car.
Best regards.
Wade
repairing gm120
I used to do warranty repair on pioneer back when the gm120 were new ( guess that kind of dates me).
I remember that they had eyelets in the pcb which are a bad thing in the automotive environment of drastic temp changes.
we solved the cracked solder joints that plagued this unit by
first removing the solder then run a small bare wire thru the eyelet and solder it directly to the foil( resolder the eyelet too )
this was the problem in most cases and simply resoldering
is a very temporary fix ,when we used this method the problem never reoccured.
I hope this helps someone
I used to do warranty repair on pioneer back when the gm120 were new ( guess that kind of dates me).
I remember that they had eyelets in the pcb which are a bad thing in the automotive environment of drastic temp changes.
we solved the cracked solder joints that plagued this unit by
first removing the solder then run a small bare wire thru the eyelet and solder it directly to the foil( resolder the eyelet too )
this was the problem in most cases and simply resoldering
is a very temporary fix ,when we used this method the problem never reoccured.
I hope this helps someone
PIONEER GM-120
Hello I am new to this community. My name is Carlos Daniel Garcia Savino, I am Venezuelan birth, and now live in the city of Cabudare, Lara State.
I have a Component Car Stere High Power Main Amplifier PIONEER GM-120 100% operating with its full installation kit, with its original box in good condition.
Really that has great sentimental value to me, but since there is at this site a lot of people interested in this product, and because I need extra money, I decided to sell it.
I have no idea how much to ask, so I listen to offers, which can send my direction email: cdgsco@hotmail.com.
PD Excuse me very badly written English but I hope that at least can understand the message.
Greetings
Hello I am new to this community. My name is Carlos Daniel Garcia Savino, I am Venezuelan birth, and now live in the city of Cabudare, Lara State.
I have a Component Car Stere High Power Main Amplifier PIONEER GM-120 100% operating with its full installation kit, with its original box in good condition.
Really that has great sentimental value to me, but since there is at this site a lot of people interested in this product, and because I need extra money, I decided to sell it.
I have no idea how much to ask, so I listen to offers, which can send my direction email: cdgsco@hotmail.com.
PD Excuse me very badly written English but I hope that at least can understand the message.
Greetings
Hello
Hello dangus,
If you have schematics or servicemanual for GM-40, could you email it to me?
mitoko@geobiz.net
Thanks in advance.
Regards.
dangus said:
Hello dangus,
If you have schematics or servicemanual for GM-40, could you email it to me?
mitoko@geobiz.net
Thanks in advance.
Regards.
im digging this up coz i got a complete pioneer component setup and i wanna change the kpx-9000 installed with a newer hu. i'm still gonna use the CD-5 equalizer coz i like it.
thanks to all those who supplied info. though i havent been able to see the rapidshare scans, i hope all your help leads me somewhere. thanks
thanks to all those who supplied info. though i havent been able to see the rapidshare scans, i hope all your help leads me somewhere. thanks
Re: Hello
Sorry, I haven't come across anything for the GM-40. So, I may be mistaken about having any info on that model. If something turns up, I'll post it here.
It wouldn't be hard to trace a schematic, though. Take a picture of the solder side, reverse it, play with the brightness/gamma/contrast to make the traces more visible, then draw in the components. Highlight/trace power and ground with colored pens, then create a schematic. If the board is very dense, desoldering components will help. Make sure the identity and orientation are recorded accurately, of course. Digital cameras or a flatbed scanner are a great help.
mitoko said:
Sorry, I haven't come across anything for the GM-40. So, I may be mistaken about having any info on that model. If something turns up, I'll post it here.
It wouldn't be hard to trace a schematic, though. Take a picture of the solder side, reverse it, play with the brightness/gamma/contrast to make the traces more visible, then draw in the components. Highlight/trace power and ground with colored pens, then create a schematic. If the board is very dense, desoldering components will help. Make sure the identity and orientation are recorded accurately, of course. Digital cameras or a flatbed scanner are a great help.