panomaniac said:
A hand full of 0.1 uF caps is very useful for tuning this kind of arrangement in.
dave
1uF, 0.47uF, and Lots of 0.1uF
Dont bother with the 4uF.
Small caps in parallel for a bigger value is always better than big caps in series to get a smaller value. (and usually cheaper too!)
Dont bother with the 4uF.
Small caps in parallel for a bigger value is always better than big caps in series to get a smaller value. (and usually cheaper too!)
few more hours building
rather slow, not too good with tools, have to work on finishing. I plan to just put on polyurethane, but did not realize the edge veneer is not the same wood!! (white birch, rather than regular birch).
may have to stain the edge to match the rest of the cabinet. I put the speaker brace, the triangle to divert the sound waves, hope the stuffing is OK.
I plan to mount the speaker with t-nut (put on some liquid nail so it won't fall off) so I can later add the tweeter and perhaps also modify the stuffing.
Most likely will be another few weekends for the finish and sanding etc.
gychang
clumsy attempt at reinforcing the frame.
rather slow, not too good with tools, have to work on finishing. I plan to just put on polyurethane, but did not realize the edge veneer is not the same wood!! (white birch, rather than regular birch).
may have to stain the edge to match the rest of the cabinet. I put the speaker brace, the triangle to divert the sound waves, hope the stuffing is OK.
I plan to mount the speaker with t-nut (put on some liquid nail so it won't fall off) so I can later add the tweeter and perhaps also modify the stuffing.
Most likely will be another few weekends for the finish and sanding etc.
gychang
clumsy attempt at reinforcing the frame.
Well, they look good fantastic to me so far. 🙂 Elegant. As the man says, any chance of sticking a driver in one temporarily and giving us a sneak preview... go on, you know you want to.
Can't wait to see one of the curved-front builds in progress now! 😀
Can't wait to see one of the curved-front builds in progress now! 😀
Hi gychang!
Must say that despite you say you are an amateur builder, you sure have made progress with all these speakers made!
If I may make suggestion, drill a hole in the back of the triangular cavities in the upper and lower mouths. Fill them with blister (right term?) sand. They will be heavy like Saturday sins on your shoulders if you have to move them.
Or a lighter option, spray polyurethane foam in them.
The kind used when sealing windows. It's expanding in cavities and give quite dead panels when cured.
Keep on building!!
Must say that despite you say you are an amateur builder, you sure have made progress with all these speakers made!
If I may make suggestion, drill a hole in the back of the triangular cavities in the upper and lower mouths. Fill them with blister (right term?) sand. They will be heavy like Saturday sins on your shoulders if you have to move them.
Or a lighter option, spray polyurethane foam in them.
The kind used when sealing windows. It's expanding in cavities and give quite dead panels when cured.
Keep on building!!
Gychang - got your email but I'm having mail problems right now, so I'll answer you online.
As Oz Mike says, but values in parallel for larger values.
Now that you will have a bag full of 1uF caps you can try a lot of different stuff. Going by 1uF steps is not bad, especially for this super tweeter type application.
If you need 0.5uf, put 2 in series. That way you should be able to find what works.
OT, to answer about these caps in a T-Amp. Yes, they will work. But you will want 2 or 3 in parallel on each channel. I suggest that you get a single better cap for each channel, anyway. 2.2uF is the standard value.
Keep up the great work, the boxes look nice!
As Oz Mike says, but values in parallel for larger values.
Now that you will have a bag full of 1uF caps you can try a lot of different stuff. Going by 1uF steps is not bad, especially for this super tweeter type application.
If you need 0.5uf, put 2 in series. That way you should be able to find what works.
OT, to answer about these caps in a T-Amp. Yes, they will work. But you will want 2 or 3 in parallel on each channel. I suggest that you get a single better cap for each channel, anyway. 2.2uF is the standard value.
Keep up the great work, the boxes look nice!
Thanks, I will have to try polyurethane foam next time...
thanks panomaniac. Parallel install to add the values, great.
I have actually finished but have not tested the sound, my kid is on the stereo and can't budge her at the moment. Here is the product, finish overall looks satisfying.
gychang
peterbrorsson said:
panomaniac said:
thanks panomaniac. Parallel install to add the values, great.
I have actually finished but have not tested the sound, my kid is on the stereo and can't budge her at the moment. Here is the product, finish overall looks satisfying.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
gychang
thanks for kind words.
I have only listened to exactly 10minutes last night. (wife thinks too late to turn on to normal volume in our closely packed neighborhood).
minimally boomy bass. lacks detail and sparkle compared to my zigmahornet... These are preliminary observation. I will add a tweeter later probably in few weeks.
Some conclusions:
1. my favorite cabinet design so far, and like the finish (plain polyurethane) on birch plywood.
2. cut and glueing of the slants on the top/bottom are critical for the whole cabinet alignment, otherwise the cabinet is very easy to construct (but heavy). Made several mistakes so it took long to hide them.
3. kept cursing t-nut use (I needed to move the driver easily for adjustment of stuffing and addition of tweeter). Even with a dab of "liquid nail" one nut fell off and had to reset the driver again.
4. should've used polyurethane foam behind slants/triangle rather than polyfil.
I will put up some more impression after more listening.
gychang
I have only listened to exactly 10minutes last night. (wife thinks too late to turn on to normal volume in our closely packed neighborhood).
minimally boomy bass. lacks detail and sparkle compared to my zigmahornet... These are preliminary observation. I will add a tweeter later probably in few weeks.
Some conclusions:
1. my favorite cabinet design so far, and like the finish (plain polyurethane) on birch plywood.
2. cut and glueing of the slants on the top/bottom are critical for the whole cabinet alignment, otherwise the cabinet is very easy to construct (but heavy). Made several mistakes so it took long to hide them.
3. kept cursing t-nut use (I needed to move the driver easily for adjustment of stuffing and addition of tweeter). Even with a dab of "liquid nail" one nut fell off and had to reset the driver again.
4. should've used polyurethane foam behind slants/triangle rather than polyfil.
I will put up some more impression after more listening.
gychang
sqlkev said:
great!, let's compare notes at that time. Speaker brace is easy to add. My initial impression is may indeed need a tweeter.
gychang
Re: few more hours building
What did you use on the frame? Epoxy? Since the legs of the frame are wide, you could try some ductseal or other damping material on the inside of the legs to reduce reflections back through the cone.
Looks good. I think most others have found that this driver can use the help of a tweeter.
If you find them boomy, you could try more damping/stuffing.
gychang said:
What did you use on the frame? Epoxy? Since the legs of the frame are wide, you could try some ductseal or other damping material on the inside of the legs to reduce reflections back through the cone.
Looks good. I think most others have found that this driver can use the help of a tweeter.
If you find them boomy, you could try more damping/stuffing.
Godzilla said:
Godzilla, I plan to mount this one, on the front next to B20, and have several 1uf caps.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-030&scqty=4
can I just use serial connection of 1uf caps depending on sound?, without a need for a crossover?
zayne742 said:
zayne742: any chance on the picture?, love the el cheapo BIB although mine was given away sometime ago.
gychang
Attachments
sound somewhat dull...
I have had chance to listen sometime in my small room and the main room. I have zigmahornet with Dave Merrill's speakers to compare.
I have to admit, I accidently dropped a 1/4" glob of epoxy on the back of the B20 cone when I was trying to reinforce the driver frame.
The Chang cabinet sound is less than ideal, overall good full lower range and base, midrange and high seem veiled, although acoustic guitar jazz does sound satisfying. Zigmahornet is more clear and detailed in mid, highs.
I will replace the driver with the epoxy on the cone, plan to add the tweeter posted above. If anyone have any suggestions on the stuffying I am willing to adjust while I have the speaker taken apart.
I love the cabinet design and concept that Scott, Dave, Ron and others have contributed, would like to come close to the audio nirvana if possible...
gychang
I have had chance to listen sometime in my small room and the main room. I have zigmahornet with Dave Merrill's speakers to compare.
I have to admit, I accidently dropped a 1/4" glob of epoxy on the back of the B20 cone when I was trying to reinforce the driver frame.
The Chang cabinet sound is less than ideal, overall good full lower range and base, midrange and high seem veiled, although acoustic guitar jazz does sound satisfying. Zigmahornet is more clear and detailed in mid, highs.
I will replace the driver with the epoxy on the cone, plan to add the tweeter posted above. If anyone have any suggestions on the stuffying I am willing to adjust while I have the speaker taken apart.
I love the cabinet design and concept that Scott, Dave, Ron and others have contributed, would like to come close to the audio nirvana if possible...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
gychang
Before replacing the driver: check the mass of the cone, a 1/4 inch drip would be very light. try peeling it off first if you're worried about it. You have nothing to lose if you were ready to replace the driver.
Listen to one of the pioneers on an open baffle and compare the midrange to the one in the box. The problem might be the drivers, not the cabinet.
I can't imagine such a wide whizzer being good at the extreme highs.
Listen to one of the pioneers on an open baffle and compare the midrange to the one in the box. The problem might be the drivers, not the cabinet.
I can't imagine such a wide whizzer being good at the extreme highs.
Re: sound somewhat dull...
Sounds like a pretty accurate description on the B20.... phase plugs + EnABLE?
dave
gychang said:
Sounds like a pretty accurate description on the B20.... phase plugs + EnABLE?
dave
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