Pictures of the "tweeterplug" for B20
here are the promised pictures.
The final results look good enough. It was an improvisation and I was running out of time, so the craftsmanship is not the best. But as I said, good enough. If needs be I can always re-do it, since now I know what it is that I want to do with it.
The burn on my index finger is a result of a soldering accident: Never try to catch falling soldering iron when it is hot!
here are the promised pictures.
The final results look good enough. It was an improvisation and I was running out of time, so the craftsmanship is not the best. But as I said, good enough. If needs be I can always re-do it, since now I know what it is that I want to do with it.
The burn on my index finger is a result of a soldering accident: Never try to catch falling soldering iron when it is hot!
Attachments
Re: Pictures of the "tweeterplug" for B20
Doh! Anyway, looking good! To post multiple pictures you have to upload them to one of the image hosting sites, then post the provided links in your post.
GM
brankovie said:
The burn on my index finger is a result of a soldering accident: Never try to catch falling soldering iron when it is hot!
Doh! Anyway, looking good! To post multiple pictures you have to upload them to one of the image hosting sites, then post the provided links in your post.
GM
i plan on experimenting with a baffle less speaker using the b20. my plan is to rigidly clamp the speaker by its magnet at my desired listening height. i know i am going to run into issues with bass and driffraction, but i think it would make a great test bed for trying different open baffle set ups. and just be a fun project.
It's really a great driver. Not just good, but great. It's not the flattest, lowest distortion, most extended, or any of those things- but it's very easy to use, sounds musically satisfying, does bass AND treble (not the highest highs), has presence and clarity, is inexpensive and works in a variety of enclosure types, and can be modded to a very high level of performance.
So far I've tried phase plugs, coaxial supertweeter mounting, basket tricks, a polyfill version of the 98c tweak (polyfill between whizzer and main cone).
Dammar on the whizzer and puzzlecoat on the main cone as well as Enabl to follow! FUN!
So far I've tried phase plugs, coaxial supertweeter mounting, basket tricks, a polyfill version of the 98c tweak (polyfill between whizzer and main cone).
Dammar on the whizzer and puzzlecoat on the main cone as well as Enabl to follow! FUN!
Ping Dave
Dave:
Have you done any more work with the B20? You did kensai's, and back then posted about devel for a tweetered phase plug. Have you tested which variant of coatings is ideal? I'm thinking dammared whizzer and puzzlecoated main cone, all with Enabl natch..
Thoughts?
I've been working on tweaks with this driver but going rather slow as I'm doing impedance sweeps at each phase. Thus far apart from the dustcapectomy for phaseplug/coax supertweeter play, I haven't modded the cone. Frame got mortite and the legs got some batting wrapped around them to kill early reflection.
Dave:
Have you done any more work with the B20? You did kensai's, and back then posted about devel for a tweetered phase plug. Have you tested which variant of coatings is ideal? I'm thinking dammared whizzer and puzzlecoated main cone, all with Enabl natch..
Thoughts?
I've been working on tweaks with this driver but going rather slow as I'm doing impedance sweeps at each phase. Thus far apart from the dustcapectomy for phaseplug/coax supertweeter play, I haven't modded the cone. Frame got mortite and the legs got some batting wrapped around them to kill early reflection.
So its on
Upon unexpected encouragement from my wife:"If you are going to do anything with those speakers you might as well do it now, before the baby is born" I have unceremoniously removed the dust caps and relocated the drivers to the garage where the drilling of the pole piece will take place. (There is surprisingly a lot of room around the tweeterplugs when they are inserted in to the voice coil)
I also decided to do the EnABLing at the same time - since with the new baby coming it would probably be years before I would be able to get to it.
That prompts me to ask Dave about the treatment he recommends on these beyond the pattern and the gloss. Any pretreatment on the cone or at least the
whizzer?
I would really appreciate any input.
thank you all for sharing your knowledge on this forum
branko
Upon unexpected encouragement from my wife:"If you are going to do anything with those speakers you might as well do it now, before the baby is born" I have unceremoniously removed the dust caps and relocated the drivers to the garage where the drilling of the pole piece will take place. (There is surprisingly a lot of room around the tweeterplugs when they are inserted in to the voice coil)
I also decided to do the EnABLing at the same time - since with the new baby coming it would probably be years before I would be able to get to it.
That prompts me to ask Dave about the treatment he recommends on these beyond the pattern and the gloss. Any pretreatment on the cone or at least the
whizzer?
I would really appreciate any input.
thank you all for sharing your knowledge on this forum
branko
Well, the holes are drilled and the first coat of modgepodge is on.
Drilling went smoothly with a drill press. Just take your time, clean the shavings from the drill bit often and cover the voice coil with masking tape.
For the modgepodge I recommend using a good paint brush - not a cheapo like mine that leave bristles on the cone. I also tried the foam brush, but it turned out to be too abrasive on the paper. I covered the whizzer as well. We will see. Of-course it has been raining all day so that thing is not drying out so the secon coat has to wait until tomorrow.
Now i just need to locate the proper paints for the pattern and the pens. That seem to be a little problem (I tried one store with no luck). By the way, did anyone try the acrylic paint from different manufacturers? Just looking for alternatives.
branko
Drilling went smoothly with a drill press. Just take your time, clean the shavings from the drill bit often and cover the voice coil with masking tape.
For the modgepodge I recommend using a good paint brush - not a cheapo like mine that leave bristles on the cone. I also tried the foam brush, but it turned out to be too abrasive on the paper. I covered the whizzer as well. We will see. Of-course it has been raining all day so that thing is not drying out so the secon coat has to wait until tomorrow.
Now i just need to locate the proper paints for the pattern and the pens. That seem to be a little problem (I tried one store with no luck). By the way, did anyone try the acrylic paint from different manufacturers? Just looking for alternatives.
branko
branko
All you need is... Ed
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119852&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
He has the entire kit available for world wide delivery and for a very nice price. You might ask him to obtain a basic white or black, to practice with, as the kit comes with the clear stealth paint.
And, please do practice with the tools, read the tutorials that are available and do not assume that applying paint, from an upside down, A series calligraphy pen, in a curve, on a curved surface is a natural god given talent. Save your good drivers for last and practice on some computer speakers, or your car's speakers, or those from a boom box, even if you are a competent calligrapher.
I have attached the EnABL thread links text so you can easily find the tutorials.
Bud
All you need is... Ed
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119852&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
He has the entire kit available for world wide delivery and for a very nice price. You might ask him to obtain a basic white or black, to practice with, as the kit comes with the clear stealth paint.
And, please do practice with the tools, read the tutorials that are available and do not assume that applying paint, from an upside down, A series calligraphy pen, in a curve, on a curved surface is a natural god given talent. Save your good drivers for last and practice on some computer speakers, or your car's speakers, or those from a boom box, even if you are a competent calligrapher.
I have attached the EnABL thread links text so you can easily find the tutorials.
Bud
Thank you Bud.
I did read the tutorials and will read them again before application. I also disassembled one of the garage speakers for the purpose of practicing on it(only to discover that mice have a nest inside - disgusting!!). I am no calligrapher by any means. I think the last time I held a calligraphy pen was in the second or third grade when we were required to use them in school (writing in cursive). That was a long time ago.
I did read the tutorials and will read them again before application. I also disassembled one of the garage speakers for the purpose of practicing on it(only to discover that mice have a nest inside - disgusting!!). I am no calligrapher by any means. I think the last time I held a calligraphy pen was in the second or third grade when we were required to use them in school (writing in cursive). That was a long time ago.
Branko
I would put a set of rings on either end of the shaft. This to quell any nonlinear emissions from pressure waves off of the cone, attaching and then lifting off of the surface. The tweeter diaphragm should follow the pattern shown in the attached PDF, even though it is not your tweeter. Dome tweeters are, thankfully, not particularly unruly beasts and a generic pattern set will usually take care of them.
Bud
I would put a set of rings on either end of the shaft. This to quell any nonlinear emissions from pressure waves off of the cone, attaching and then lifting off of the surface. The tweeter diaphragm should follow the pattern shown in the attached PDF, even though it is not your tweeter. Dome tweeters are, thankfully, not particularly unruly beasts and a generic pattern set will usually take care of them.
Bud
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