Well this thing is about 99.99% done. Still have to toss on the knobs, trim some of the shafts and add a few bolts. I took these pictures while testing it so nothing too exciting I still need to switch out these tubes and toss in my nice ones. It is sounding pretty good so far 🙂 It is nice to finally have a working amp again. You can't really see it in the picture but the sides are walnut and there are adjustable bias switches behind the large capacitors. UL/Triode and feedback switches are on the back panel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
Here's my latest build:
Prior to completion, to show Connectors.
With my other amp
Made this one Triode only since I preferred triode by a wide margin on the last build.
Prior to completion, to show Connectors.
With my other amp
Made this one Triode only since I preferred triode by a wide margin on the last build.
Actually spalted maple and the frame is walnut. Spalted maple is very hard to get and expensive! It's even harder to work with according to my buddy Cal who made the box.
Edit: posted right after Dave. Good guess! I am noticing deeper sound field without all the CFB UL wiring switches etc. I am also very pleased with the sonics the Silver/copper I have been using.
Edit: posted right after Dave. Good guess! I am noticing deeper sound field without all the CFB UL wiring switches etc. I am also very pleased with the sonics the Silver/copper I have been using.
Posted 1 min earlier than you 😀
I got the wood for my amp, speaker stands and equipment rack from this guy:
eBay Seller: antlersexpress: Crafts, Collectibles items on eBay.com
It's been incredibly good quality lumber, highly recommended. Depending on the amount of spalting an how it's used, a lot of the time spalted and burled wood needs to be stabilized, esp. when used for pens and knife scales. Used in larger pieces with support (like in your amp) it should do fine without. Spalting happens when the tree falls and sits on the dirt, bacteria get in there and start the rotting process, so a lot of times there's soft spots in the wood.
I got the wood for my amp, speaker stands and equipment rack from this guy:
eBay Seller: antlersexpress: Crafts, Collectibles items on eBay.com
It's been incredibly good quality lumber, highly recommended. Depending on the amount of spalting an how it's used, a lot of the time spalted and burled wood needs to be stabilized, esp. when used for pens and knife scales. Used in larger pieces with support (like in your amp) it should do fine without. Spalting happens when the tree falls and sits on the dirt, bacteria get in there and start the rotting process, so a lot of times there's soft spots in the wood.
Last edited:
Interesting stuff. Think I'm done with tube amps for a while, I really REALLY don't need another one... Though I do have another SSE board. 
Thinking I might build a little Digital amp next for my woofer section... Who knows.
Thinking I might build a little Digital amp next for my woofer section... Who knows.
Well here it is the Point to Point Simple SE. I finished this little amp in about four days, I worked on it in the evenings.
I used transendar output tansformers. For the B+ I used two 10H 90ma chokes in parallel and a 100uf motor run cap and a 33uf electrolytic for the first cap. The amp is very quiet, you can't hear any hum or noise between songs. It sounds as good as the other amp I have on here.
I can change the B+ by changing the rectifier tube, the 5y3 will give me 360v and the 5AR4 will give me about 430v.
This was a fun project and easier than I thought.
I used transendar output tansformers. For the B+ I used two 10H 90ma chokes in parallel and a 100uf motor run cap and a 33uf electrolytic for the first cap. The amp is very quiet, you can't hear any hum or noise between songs. It sounds as good as the other amp I have on here.
I can change the B+ by changing the rectifier tube, the 5y3 will give me 360v and the 5AR4 will give me about 430v.
This was a fun project and easier than I thought.
![IMGDEAD]](/community/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BIMGDEAD%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fmedia6.dropshots.com%2Fphotos%2F650815%2F20100117%2F181530.jpg%5B%2FIMGDEAD%5D&hash=baa321b3101e8697f804a504da0eff4a)
![IMGDEAD]](/community/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BIMGDEAD%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fmedia7.dropshots.com%2Fphotos%2F650815%2F20100117%2F181402.jpg%5B%2FIMGDEAD%5D&hash=60bbebd59b54de58712985f5a084c909)
Questions.Here's my 6A3-SE.
![IMGDEAD]](/community/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BIMGDEAD%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fmedia8.dropshots.com%2Fphotos%2F650815%2F20100117%2F181502.jpg%5B%2FIMGDEAD%5D&hash=5fe9c78d13e85833475442741590d772)
1. Did you do point to point connection instead of board?
2. Shouldn't PT and OPT be rotated 90d from each other?
3. Those 2 knobs in front, are they volume pots?
In my experience transformer orientation only matters sometimes oddly enough. sometimes what seems like transformer orientation is really a problem with your cabling picking up some nasty noise, so twist it together in the amp.
I believe the 2 knobs are volume and source select being that there are 3 sets of RCAs on the back.
Looks like a wonderful build! Same with PR audios point to point job, really interesting stuff.
I believe the 2 knobs are volume and source select being that there are 3 sets of RCAs on the back.
Looks like a wonderful build! Same with PR audios point to point job, really interesting stuff.
![IMGDEAD]](https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/[IMGDEAD]http://media7.dropshots.com/photos/650815/20100204/201448.jpg[/IMGDEAD])
Ohhh, very cool great P2P wiring.
Bad job linking the pic though 😀
😛
Bad job linking the pic though 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
😛
Last edited:
Are you going to be using detachable power supply line? If so, what kind of plugs?
Also, what kind of camera did you take those pictures with? 😀
Also, what kind of camera did you take those pictures with? 😀