My F5Tv3's
My F5Tv3 monos. Power supply comes out to +/-47vdc under load @ .7A (.350v) per device x8 with an Antek 800VA xfrmr and 88k uf per rail CRC. The small xfrmr is just a 10va for standby power to run the main power relay and switch LED. Soft start and speaker protect are both from the store. The 12Vac from the main xfrmr runs the speaker protect board and the soft start uses 3 CL60's in series in place of resistors. Case is the 5U from the store. Started out with the steel version then got the aluminum covers later on.
The front panel was cut on my CNC, only .020" deep, then filled with black nail polish & the excess wiped off with acetone when dry. The rear panel text will be cut later. The Preamp in the last pic isn't finished yet. It will house the Salas DCG-3, a Velman pre at unity gain for the blasphemes bass & treble
(for those difficult sources) that I can switch out of circuit & a small pair of VU meters. Hope you like 😀
My F5Tv3 monos. Power supply comes out to +/-47vdc under load @ .7A (.350v) per device x8 with an Antek 800VA xfrmr and 88k uf per rail CRC. The small xfrmr is just a 10va for standby power to run the main power relay and switch LED. Soft start and speaker protect are both from the store. The 12Vac from the main xfrmr runs the speaker protect board and the soft start uses 3 CL60's in series in place of resistors. Case is the 5U from the store. Started out with the steel version then got the aluminum covers later on.


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My F5Tv3 monos. Power supply comes out to +/-47vdc under load @ .7A (.350v) per device x8 with an Antek 800VA xfrmr and 88k uf per rail CRC. The small xfrmr is just a 10va for standby power to run the main power relay and switch LED. Soft start and speaker protect are both from the store. The 12Vac from the main xfrmr runs the speaker protect board and the soft start uses 3 CL60's in series in place of resistors. Case is the 5U from the store. Started out with the steel version then got the aluminum covers later on.The front panel was cut on my CNC, only .020" deep, then filled with black nail polish & the excess wiped off with acetone when dry. The rear panel text will be cut later. The Preamp in the last pic isn't finished yet. It will house the Salas DCG-3, a Velman pre at unity gain for the blasphemes bass & treble
(for those difficult sources) that I can switch out of circuit & a small pair of VU meters. Hope you like 😀
Merry Christmas to you! Nice and tidy. Fun to look at. Very nicely done.
Interesting.. I've often wondered as I'm running Hiraga class-a from SMPSWhat makes the SMPS better? What do you like about it?
Would be nice to hear comparisons.
This is a new build. I had the SMPSs in the wings in the event things didn't work out as I had hoped. I may have to perform surgery and get the SMPSs in there permanently.
I believe I have DC on my lines <and> I think the choppers in my electric heating thermostats are messing with me. I cannot get a large toroid to run quietly here. No matter which toroid I have tried over - say 200VA, I always get a 'nice' physical buzz. This always makes it's way into the audio, unless the thing goes into the next room. I have tried some pretty high quality transformers - all the same. SMPS is winning 'in my house'.
The SMPS sounds as good, if not better than the linear supply TO MY EARS. The bass might be a bit tighter and the highs may be a bit cleaner. This is all possibly attributed to the lack of PSU noise. I am using 4 Vicor 200w 48v PSUs trimmed down to 34v. Each channel has two in series to make + / - 34v. Per Vicor data sheet, the PSUs switch to a higher freq when the load increases - up to something like 1Mhz so it's probably a good idea to push them hard. I have 4700uf on each rail and the psu has no problem starting.
I am also running a NS10 clone linestage and phono on a Vicor 24v. The preamp has 30,000uf and the PSU starts up fine there too.
There are many Vicor products, but I believe they are mostly based on the same modules. Not cheap stuff.
I believe I have DC on my lines <and> I think the choppers in my electric heating thermostats are messing with me. I cannot get a large toroid to run quietly here. No matter which toroid I have tried over - say 200VA, I always get a 'nice' physical buzz. This always makes it's way into the audio, unless the thing goes into the next room. I have tried some pretty high quality transformers - all the same. SMPS is winning 'in my house'.
The SMPS sounds as good, if not better than the linear supply TO MY EARS. The bass might be a bit tighter and the highs may be a bit cleaner. This is all possibly attributed to the lack of PSU noise. I am using 4 Vicor 200w 48v PSUs trimmed down to 34v. Each channel has two in series to make + / - 34v. Per Vicor data sheet, the PSUs switch to a higher freq when the load increases - up to something like 1Mhz so it's probably a good idea to push them hard. I have 4700uf on each rail and the psu has no problem starting.
I am also running a NS10 clone linestage and phono on a Vicor 24v. The preamp has 30,000uf and the PSU starts up fine there too.
There are many Vicor products, but I believe they are mostly based on the same modules. Not cheap stuff.
Attachments
After a few years of passive observation i finally gathered the courage to show my Nelson Pass inspired projects.
I run a B1 as a main control amp, "HeadLamp" - a Zenlite with a buffer (off 48V SMPS), and ACA with and outboard linear PSU.
All great fun and very enlightening.
The "HeadLamp" especially was very educational, it's all assembled on a proto board, went through a number of PSU options until settled on a 48V SMPS feeding a cap multiplier which also provides a very gentle start up.
Started with IRFZ44N at low currents (around 300 mA), then tried IRF610 and was utterly dissappointed. Then changed it to IRFZ34 with somewhat increased current. Still not happy.
Finally changed it back to IRFZ44N with 750 mA current and loved it.
I'm sure higher currents will bring even more joy but will have to change the heatsinks to do that.
All the case work is mostly wood and metal with predominantly recycle bits.
Here are some photos.
I run a B1 as a main control amp, "HeadLamp" - a Zenlite with a buffer (off 48V SMPS), and ACA with and outboard linear PSU.
All great fun and very enlightening.
The "HeadLamp" especially was very educational, it's all assembled on a proto board, went through a number of PSU options until settled on a 48V SMPS feeding a cap multiplier which also provides a very gentle start up.
Started with IRFZ44N at low currents (around 300 mA), then tried IRF610 and was utterly dissappointed. Then changed it to IRFZ34 with somewhat increased current. Still not happy.
Finally changed it back to IRFZ44N with 750 mA current and loved it.
I'm sure higher currents will bring even more joy but will have to change the heatsinks to do that.
All the case work is mostly wood and metal with predominantly recycle bits.
Here are some photos.
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You have good cause to be proud. It works! It pleases you to own and use these devices...and I bet you are not done on the journey 🙂
What makes the SMPS better? What do you like about it?
Space, ripple, efficiency. Accurrate. Vibrations.
Thank you all for the kind words. The journey is definitely continuing.
Most importantly big thank you for Mr. Pass for sharing all these wonderful designs with us, much appreciated.
Could not resist posting a few more shots of my ACA - a gem of an amp for sensitive speakers.
Most importantly big thank you for Mr. Pass for sharing all these wonderful designs with us, much appreciated.
Could not resist posting a few more shots of my ACA - a gem of an amp for sensitive speakers.
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Aleph J looks great and sounds even better.
Curious what speakers you are driving with the Aleph J?
Stentorians, Speaker Design Works.
Speaker Design Works
92db sensitivity. I Biamped to a set of Saturn Subs at 200hz.
Speaker Design Works
92db sensitivity. I Biamped to a set of Saturn Subs at 200hz.
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
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Aleph J looks great and sounds even better.
Very nice and clean implementation! I would keep an eye on the temp of those sinks because your wooden rack is rather close to them. It's hard to tell from your image how much space is above the completed amp...
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