Hi culture,
Nice metalwork.
2 questions;
How big are your heatsinks.....(they look to be same as the ones i got for my F3 ( 295mm x 150mm x 80mm)) ?
How hot do they get on prolongued listening ?
...just checking if mine will take the F3's heat 😎
Nice metalwork.
2 questions;
How big are your heatsinks.....(they look to be same as the ones i got for my F3 ( 295mm x 150mm x 80mm)) ?
How hot do they get on prolongued listening ?
...just checking if mine will take the F3's heat 😎
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Hi CeeVee
Thanks for the compliment, it a true kitchen table effort, drilling and all 🙂
The heatsinks are 16x23x7,5 cm. I don't know the actual temperatures. I can touch them for more than five seconds, hot but no problem and i have to confess the amp is not in the most well ventilated place.
cheers,
c.
As I said before "The ear will decide".
When I have done the listening tests I will let everyone know what my impressions are.
I've never heard of a Class A amplifier sufferring from too much PSU supply capacitance. It is true that the ESR of the caps should be kept low so that the impedance of the PSU is low.
Some of the more bizzarre Hiranga Class A amplifiers even go the extreme of using car batteries in place of the capacitors.
Surely the aim is to get a PSU that provides a rock stable voltage at full power whilst also having a low impedance. ie massive Transformer and even bigger PSU caps.
I'm using 3 x Dubillier 33000uF / 75V Computer Grade caps per rail - 4 rails in total for the two amps. These caps actually measured at nearly 100000uF each when I was selecting them.
The sound was absolutely stunning, however, I'm now looking for a better pair of speakers as the amp has shown up the weaknesses of my B&W DM602s3's.
Some of the more bizzarre Hiranga Class A amplifiers even go the extreme of using car batteries in place of the capacitors.
Surely the aim is to get a PSU that provides a rock stable voltage at full power whilst also having a low impedance. ie massive Transformer and even bigger PSU caps.
I'm using 3 x Dubillier 33000uF / 75V Computer Grade caps per rail - 4 rails in total for the two amps. These caps actually measured at nearly 100000uF each when I was selecting them.
The sound was absolutely stunning, however, I'm now looking for a better pair of speakers as the amp has shown up the weaknesses of my B&W DM602s3's.
You may well be right. This was my first attempt at a Class A design. I solved the problem by reducing the quiescent current slightly and replacing the silpads with mica washers.
NEVER again will I use SILPADS, they are ABSOLUTELY USELESS at high power.
My diy F5
Hi,
this is my f5 finished at the end of June.
Built around cviller ampli and supply board in a dual mono config.
Sounds very smooth with a special bottom end energy in my system.
Dc at output is always under 2,5 mV with a bias around 0,6 volt.
Thanks to Mr. Pass, Cviller and to all f5 builders 🙂
Hi,
this is my f5 finished at the end of June.
Built around cviller ampli and supply board in a dual mono config.
Sounds very smooth with a special bottom end energy in my system.
Dc at output is always under 2,5 mV with a bias around 0,6 volt.
Thanks to Mr. Pass, Cviller and to all f5 builders 🙂
Attachments
I like wood 😉
make some decent holes in bottom , same on top plate ..... soak these wood plates with some decent oil , and I would say Fugly!
make some decent holes in bottom , same on top plate ..... soak these wood plates with some decent oil , and I would say Fugly!
Yeah once you have done that, he will ask you to carve ZENMOD in big letters across the front plate. 😛
Yes, oil is nice for wood.
Anyway. For what it's worth I think it looks great.
Yes, oil is nice for wood.
Anyway. For what it's worth I think it looks great.
I like wood 😉
make some decent holes in bottom , same on top plate ..... soak these wood plates with some decent oil , and I would say Fugly!
yeah I will do it. 🙂
When a new ampli starts to sound I always think building a new one instead of finishing it 🙂
Anto