Here's a pic of the pair. They aren't finished yet still some smoothing out left to do on the front panels and the amp case is still empty, it's too cold to work in my garage right now. These will be the first amp a pre that I've made so I want them to look good.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Steve!
borrow a digital camera, i'd love to see the pics of that amp.
Woodwork sounds really nice.
everyone else, some very nice work 🙂
borrow a digital camera, i'd love to see the pics of that amp.
Woodwork sounds really nice.
everyone else, some very nice work 🙂
Here is something unusual. The heatsink has spacers on the four bolts to raise it about 3/16ths of an inch to allow for circulation. It is a Borbely DC-50 biased for 20 watts Class A. I call it the butcher block look.
moe29 said:
Thanks.
Actually I've been saving up to get a good digital camera and a professional lighting rig so I can do decent product photography in-house.
Hoping to pull it together in a couple of months and couple that with a DIY piece on the amp itself.
se
Bricolo: he,he...
This is finger contact ( on/off). I made it of transparent plastic with stainless steel center. Plastic is illuminated by red/blue ( protection on/off) LEDs behind. More on koy.hi-end.org ( unfortunatelly Czech version avaible so far, I am working, as time allows, on english one).
This is finger contact ( on/off). I made it of transparent plastic with stainless steel center. Plastic is illuminated by red/blue ( protection on/off) LEDs behind. More on koy.hi-end.org ( unfortunatelly Czech version avaible so far, I am working, as time allows, on english one).
You have made that button yourself 
I thought you used one of bulgin (www.bulgin.co.uk). I have been druling over these but they are so expensive. Could you give some close-ups of the button and some details how you've made it...
I thought you used one of bulgin (www.bulgin.co.uk). I have been druling over these but they are so expensive. Could you give some close-ups of the button and some details how you've made it...
Nice these Bulgins. This one of mine made for me a friend. He works in aircraft factory and has everything he needs (turning machine, etc.)
It is made from roll of plexi-glass and in the center is milled a small hole for steel roundlet. The plexi roll bears on the switch of protection circuits and is enlighted by LEDs. If somebody is intrested I try to make a snap. Tomorow.I am not at home now. I am at work.
It is made from roll of plexi-glass and in the center is milled a small hole for steel roundlet. The plexi roll bears on the switch of protection circuits and is enlighted by LEDs. If somebody is intrested I try to make a snap. Tomorow.I am not at home now. I am at work.
Bricolo said:
Have you seen the current rate and voltage? I don't think they should be good for a power amp.
Carlos
carlmart said:
<a href="http://www.alliedelec.com">Allied Electronics</a> sells 'em for about $18 a pop. Here's the catalog page pdf: <a href="http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/catalogpages/2002/893.pdf">Bulgin Switches</a>
se
edm said:
Yes, if they control a relay based circuit. But I think I prefer a good old switch that opens the contacts for AC.
Carlos
carlmart said:
the thing is, that I'm building a TDA7294 based gainclone
and this chip has a mute/stdby function 😀
I already said they were expensive, farnell also stocks them but not the blue ones (yes they have them with a BLUE led, for all you blue led fetishists). From the top of my head i thought even a bit cheaper....
edm said:
do you know other swiches (yes, I'm looking for a swich, not a pushbutton) that are cheaper?
In this style, maybe a little smaller.
A round swich, in metal, with led
Bricolo said:
...And you're thinking of using this switch for muting? Sounds good, even if expensive perhaps for this Bulgin option.
The LM3886 also has a muting function, as well as the LM3876. I have heard many claims that this muting circuit is bad for the rest of the circuit. But I don't see quite why yet. Can anybody risk an opinion?
Halojoy has also raised the question that he doesn't quite believe that an inverted gainclone will necessarily sound better than a non-inverted, and I think I am with him.
We seem to be rejecting certain opinions from objectivists that raise measurements as THE LAW to be worshipped, but we are creating new idols apparently, with no tangible proof they do exist indeed.
About the inverted vs non-inverted question I've read reports from DIYers that built both and it was really a matter of preference, not audio quality.
And I'm afraid this muting option (which can be practical if used) became a new idol.
And idols are not something I really like...
Carlos
- Status
- Not open for further replies.