Swede and Ursv,
How about getting your responses to my questions that I post earlier this morning? I have cut and paste it here again for easy reference.
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I'm also interested & wanting to build this speaker for my next project. Couple of general questions
for now - in no particular order.
1. How much does it cost? Typical cost and nothing exotic in parts and in USD?
2. How is the bass? Is it great, good or just so-so?
3. In terms of bass, does this speaker work well in small or large room?
4. Does this speaker need a lot of room to breath?
5. What prevented you from building 3 or 3.8? Is it due to cost? Complexicity? Or both?
6. Is information readily available on the web and especially on diyaudio.com?
7. I have some ideas (from BrianGT) of the tools needed to built speakers. Did you have to get a
lot of tools to built yours?
Thanks.
And how about some internal pictures?
__________________________________________________
How about getting your responses to my questions that I post earlier this morning? I have cut and paste it here again for easy reference.
__________________________________________________
I'm also interested & wanting to build this speaker for my next project. Couple of general questions
for now - in no particular order.
1. How much does it cost? Typical cost and nothing exotic in parts and in USD?
2. How is the bass? Is it great, good or just so-so?
3. In terms of bass, does this speaker work well in small or large room?
4. Does this speaker need a lot of room to breath?
5. What prevented you from building 3 or 3.8? Is it due to cost? Complexicity? Or both?
6. Is information readily available on the web and especially on diyaudio.com?
7. I have some ideas (from BrianGT) of the tools needed to built speakers. Did you have to get a
lot of tools to built yours?
Thanks.
And how about some internal pictures?
__________________________________________________
Wow!
You guys have built some mighty beautiful speakers...
Hey, I have a router. Maybe I should give that
a try sometime... 🙂
Dennis
You guys have built some mighty beautiful speakers...
Hey, I have a router. Maybe I should give that
a try sometime... 🙂
Dennis
Hi,
As I stated on my webpage (linked to above) my speakers cost close to 404 euros (equal amount in USD). I believe I got a good deal on all parts, though. You shouldn't be sad if your budget gets doubled.
The tools I used was:
* Cordless drill (for both drilling and screwing)
* Router (cost me 79 euros)
* Knifes (regular + razor cutter)
* Sand paper + small clamp
* "the tool for putting on the (in swedish "spackel") messy stuff to leveling out any uneven parts".
I believe that's it. Nothing more fancy.
//magnus
As I stated on my webpage (linked to above) my speakers cost close to 404 euros (equal amount in USD). I believe I got a good deal on all parts, though. You shouldn't be sad if your budget gets doubled.
The tools I used was:
* Cordless drill (for both drilling and screwing)
* Router (cost me 79 euros)
* Knifes (regular + razor cutter)
* Sand paper + small clamp
* "the tool for putting on the (in swedish "spackel") messy stuff to leveling out any uneven parts".
I believe that's it. Nothing more fancy.
//magnus
Swede,
I have read thru your web site and I see that you have quite a few other projects that you're working on.
On your ProAc 2.5 site, you have mentioned that you're using some kind of substance to cover up the screw holes and to level it out. My question is won't that mess up the flow of the wood grain? I can't tell from your picture - it looks good. Also, is it normal to screw the pieces together from outside - again kind of related to the first question.
I have read thru your web site and I see that you have quite a few other projects that you're working on.
On your ProAc 2.5 site, you have mentioned that you're using some kind of substance to cover up the screw holes and to level it out. My question is won't that mess up the flow of the wood grain? I can't tell from your picture - it looks good. Also, is it normal to screw the pieces together from outside - again kind of related to the first question.
rendisha,
My clones are of Walnut Custer Burl. Total cost was $1100 USD with top quality crossover components - Alpha Core foil inductors and Auricap bypassed Solen caps. The sound IMO is better than the original using the modified crossover values on the clone website. Bass is very tight, impressive, and enough volume to fill a 20' x 30' room. My room is about 14' x 20' so I thought 3.8's would be overkill, and I do not have a reliable, proven crossover design as the 2.5's have. I use a 150 wpc solid state amp but have heard them with 30 wpc 300B amps, ARC VT-100, Quicksilver M135, Muscal Reference RM-200, Sim Audio Moon W5, and they all sound great.
My clones are of Walnut Custer Burl. Total cost was $1100 USD with top quality crossover components - Alpha Core foil inductors and Auricap bypassed Solen caps. The sound IMO is better than the original using the modified crossover values on the clone website. Bass is very tight, impressive, and enough volume to fill a 20' x 30' room. My room is about 14' x 20' so I thought 3.8's would be overkill, and I do not have a reliable, proven crossover design as the 2.5's have. I use a 150 wpc solid state amp but have heard them with 30 wpc 300B amps, ARC VT-100, Quicksilver M135, Muscal Reference RM-200, Sim Audio Moon W5, and they all sound great.
dshortt9,
Wow, those are pretty good looking!! Did you use veneer? If so how did you do the edges? It looks like solid wood. And how do you attach the grill? I made some grills to but I’m not sure I want to drill holes in the front.
Swede,
404 euros!! I’d say got a good price all right. 7mm bitumen! I could only find 4mm. any estimates on how much yours weights?
By the way, how far from the side did you guys off set the tweeter? The cad drawing shows it 25mm from the edge, (lining up with the woofer), but the text says 35mm. On the original the distance appear closer to 35mm than 25mm. I believe someone at the madisound forum said 35mm was correct. That’s what I did anyway.
Wow, those are pretty good looking!! Did you use veneer? If so how did you do the edges? It looks like solid wood. And how do you attach the grill? I made some grills to but I’m not sure I want to drill holes in the front.
Swede,
404 euros!! I’d say got a good price all right. 7mm bitumen! I could only find 4mm. any estimates on how much yours weights?
By the way, how far from the side did you guys off set the tweeter? The cad drawing shows it 25mm from the edge, (lining up with the woofer), but the text says 35mm. On the original the distance appear closer to 35mm than 25mm. I believe someone at the madisound forum said 35mm was correct. That’s what I did anyway.
DIY ProAc
Swede
Please could you tell me if you used the brace in the drawings and if so where in the cabinet did you put it. Also how much padding did you place in the cabinet.
Thanking You Les
Swede
Please could you tell me if you used the brace in the drawings and if so where in the cabinet did you put it. Also how much padding did you place in the cabinet.
Thanking You Les
dshortt9 and Swede really great finish of your speakers!
Swede really appriciate your work on the homepage. Nice and informative with all the pics which is missing on the official page about the clone.
Which solution have you taken towards the issues with the crossover. I thinking about two issues! First have you changed the 1.5 mH inductor to 1.8mH and the 8.5 µf capacitor to 7.0 µf as jacq has metioned being more like the original proac. And second it's metioned on the official page and at forum that the tweeter and the woofer is out of phase which would suggest that the polarity should be reversed have you done that or have you used the pics on the site? If you have reversed the polarity how is that done(please explain to not so gifted 🙂 )
Seve
Swede really appriciate your work on the homepage. Nice and informative with all the pics which is missing on the official page about the clone.
Which solution have you taken towards the issues with the crossover. I thinking about two issues! First have you changed the 1.5 mH inductor to 1.8mH and the 8.5 µf capacitor to 7.0 µf as jacq has metioned being more like the original proac. And second it's metioned on the official page and at forum that the tweeter and the woofer is out of phase which would suggest that the polarity should be reversed have you done that or have you used the pics on the site? If you have reversed the polarity how is that done(please explain to not so gifted 🙂 )
Seve
To my earlier post:
I have figured out what reversing the polarity means. Jacq explains it at another forum. Still would like to hear what you have done.
Seve
I have figured out what reversing the polarity means. Jacq explains it at another forum. Still would like to hear what you have done.
Seve
I used 1.8uh and 7.4 uf. To invert the polarity just reverse the leads to the tweeter, which I did. To my ears they resemble the 3.8's more than the 2.5's and my two buddies have the real ones that I've been listening to for years.
Pictures for the site please
Dshort9,
Could we please have a your photo for the site to display to others?.
Please send a copy/s to DIYProac25 website email.
Great work guys.
Thanks,
Al.M
Dshort9,
Could we please have a your photo for the site to display to others?.
Please send a copy/s to DIYProac25 website email.
Great work guys.
Thanks,
Al.M
Hi guys!
Some answers to the questions. Quite some response. Fun.
fcel: On this picture UrSv is filling up the screw holes with that messy stuff I don't know the english word for (in swedish: "spackel").
Larger picture: http://www.skip.informatik.gu.se/~k...roac2.5/pics/camera/640.06_urban_spacklar.jpg
I believe it is pretty normal to screw the boxes together from the outside.
Kermit: My speakers weigh about 27 kg (some 50 lbs) per piece, including the crossover filters. I had to weigh them now, when you asked. ;=)
The tweeter is about 35 mm from the side.
Les: No bracing. The box is so narrow anyways, so I didn't use it. Padding??? Hmmm... I used a lot of glue when I assembled the boxes to get them air tight. Then the bitumen damping + a LOT of insulation. I kind of folded the insulation back and forth in 50 mm curves to get it really dense. I don't have any pictures of that. I'll try and take some pictures of it later.
seve: I just connected the tweeters positive connector to the negative connector on the amp.
Best,
//magnus
Some answers to the questions. Quite some response. Fun.
fcel: On this picture UrSv is filling up the screw holes with that messy stuff I don't know the english word for (in swedish: "spackel").
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Larger picture: http://www.skip.informatik.gu.se/~k...roac2.5/pics/camera/640.06_urban_spacklar.jpg
I believe it is pretty normal to screw the boxes together from the outside.
Kermit: My speakers weigh about 27 kg (some 50 lbs) per piece, including the crossover filters. I had to weigh them now, when you asked. ;=)
The tweeter is about 35 mm from the side.
Les: No bracing. The box is so narrow anyways, so I didn't use it. Padding??? Hmmm... I used a lot of glue when I assembled the boxes to get them air tight. Then the bitumen damping + a LOT of insulation. I kind of folded the insulation back and forth in 50 mm curves to get it really dense. I don't have any pictures of that. I'll try and take some pictures of it later.
seve: I just connected the tweeters positive connector to the negative connector on the amp.
Best,
//magnus
swede said:
We call it wood filler over here. I prefer to use "exterior" type, cause it's stronger. One could also use epoxy, but it's overkill. Fcel, I assume the venier goes on top, so you never see the holes.
Nice job guys.😉
Magnus,
Am I correct to assume that you put screws at the back piece of the speakers only - looking at the picture of Ursv that you just posted.
For the front and top piece, I assume you screw the pieces together from the inside - using some kind of wood joint at the corners?
These are some of the little things that one could get stuck with -wondering what to do - during the actual construction. I thought with the good of this forum, I might ask first before the actual construction.
Am I correct to assume that you put screws at the back piece of the speakers only - looking at the picture of Ursv that you just posted.
For the front and top piece, I assume you screw the pieces together from the inside - using some kind of wood joint at the corners?
These are some of the little things that one could get stuck with -wondering what to do - during the actual construction. I thought with the good of this forum, I might ask first before the actual construction.
Quote ... "I assume the venier goes on top, so you never see the holes"
Peter,
Just saw your post. You mean there is another piece of very thin wood that has to be glued on top of the bare wood? If that's the case, it does not really matter where you put the screws then. I thought those wood grain are natural after you sand/polish the bare wood?
Peter,
Just saw your post. You mean there is another piece of very thin wood that has to be glued on top of the bare wood? If that's the case, it does not really matter where you put the screws then. I thought those wood grain are natural after you sand/polish the bare wood?
Swede, nice webpage you have, very well documented (wish I had taken more photos to).
I see you have built the aleph 30. Have you had a chance to try them with your proac’s? I have been considering building aleph 30 or 5 myself, but find the cost of sinks, transformers and caps a bit to high for my budget. Maybe I’ll just go for P3A instead.
I see you have built the aleph 30. Have you had a chance to try them with your proac’s? I have been considering building aleph 30 or 5 myself, but find the cost of sinks, transformers and caps a bit to high for my budget. Maybe I’ll just go for P3A instead.
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