In case you didn't know, Nichicon Muse capacitors are available from Mouser. For example the 1000uF,25V Muse Gold serie: 647-UFW1E102MPD
sandbasser said:
Yes, thanks Richard, I've been combing previous posts cross referencing the last BOM to find any changes and you've got it all done.
Now to source everything.
rhysh's BOM with the part numbers has been a huge help in that regard.
This is going to be a blast once I get the parts together and settle on a power transformer. (torroid vs split bobbin)
j_sunne said:
I wouldnt use the BOM that i posted, it needs quite a few changes but you get the basic idea.
I keep forgetting to post the updated BOM, i will dig it out now.
Updated the info package, attached below. I will get around to posting it on the website eventually.
- cleaned up the schematic and board image files
- edited the BOM to change the electrolytic capacitor recommendation to Nichicon KW or FW which are widely available at mouser, digikey etc.
(note the high-end nichicon KZ, FG series are too big to fit)
re: part numbers. Consider the task of sourcing the parts a competence test. If you haven't done that sort of thing before, it's anyway a very worthwhile learning exercise.
- cleaned up the schematic and board image files
- edited the BOM to change the electrolytic capacitor recommendation to Nichicon KW or FW which are widely available at mouser, digikey etc.
(note the high-end nichicon KZ, FG series are too big to fit)
re: part numbers. Consider the task of sourcing the parts a competence test. If you haven't done that sort of thing before, it's anyway a very worthwhile learning exercise.
@rjm
could you please include excel and word versions for people that are still running office 2000/2003?
Thanks
could you please include excel and word versions for people that are still running office 2000/2003?
Thanks
You can download a patch that updates older versions of office to be compatible with the new formats. I recommend this. The new file formats are smaller, sometimes massively so, and generally nicer across the board. The only downside is Open Office 3 is much worse at importing these than the old Office 2003 files.
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/...70-3ae9-4aee-8f43-c6bb74cd1466&displaylang=en
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/...70-3ae9-4aee-8f43-c6bb74cd1466&displaylang=en
Thanks. I still have to connect the GND terminal. For now it is only connected to the frame. I'll try your own interconnect diagram first and see what kind of hum level I have, if any. Let you know.
Re: Phonoclone 32e board orders
Interested Richard, but can't Email you ... follow diyAudio for years, but new poster - any sets left ?
Finn
rjm said:
Interested Richard, but can't Email you ... follow diyAudio for years, but new poster - any sets left ?
Finn
PC3 - C3 questions
Hi All -
I'm certainly not an engineer - just a tinkerer, and a beginner at that...
I have some questions about C3 - RJM's schematic shows 2.2uf (RJM's website shows 4.7uf); but, several posters above have mentioned 1.5uf (Bennics from Madisound) and other values. Madisound has BOTH 1.5uf and 2.2uf listed on their website (small price difference). What's the best way to go???
I'm also considering ordering some other C3 caps from Madisound and trying them out - the site lists ClairtyCap, Solen and others. To that end, is it best to socket the connection for easy swapping???
Thanks,
Hi All -
I'm certainly not an engineer - just a tinkerer, and a beginner at that...
I have some questions about C3 - RJM's schematic shows 2.2uf (RJM's website shows 4.7uf); but, several posters above have mentioned 1.5uf (Bennics from Madisound) and other values. Madisound has BOTH 1.5uf and 2.2uf listed on their website (small price difference). What's the best way to go???
I'm also considering ordering some other C3 caps from Madisound and trying them out - the site lists ClairtyCap, Solen and others. To that end, is it best to socket the connection for easy swapping???
Thanks,
The value of the cap is variable and will determine the frequency cut off in conjunction with the input impedance of your preamp. If you go back a few pages, RJM has posted both a list of values and also a calculator.
So in my application, my pre has an input impedance of 28K, so 1uF would even be ok. If yours is 10K you might want a bigger cap.
If you think you will try out different caps then you are best adding a socket for the electroyltic pads for C3 (cut 2 legs from a dip8 socket) and solder in 2 straight wires for the wider pads that you can then easily solder those big caps to.
The big caps have heavier wire and they won't fit into a socket.
Fran
So in my application, my pre has an input impedance of 28K, so 1uF would even be ok. If yours is 10K you might want a bigger cap.
If you think you will try out different caps then you are best adding a socket for the electroyltic pads for C3 (cut 2 legs from a dip8 socket) and solder in 2 straight wires for the wider pads that you can then easily solder those big caps to.
The big caps have heavier wire and they won't fit into a socket.
Fran
As you can see the x-reg is implanted in my phonoclone.
The operation was more complicated then expected but everything is running smoothly for a couple of days.
At first startup you hear the smooth mid and highs directly. Also it sounds like you hear every detail there is. The highs are sounding more clear and bright (highhats and triangles sound like new).
Even the soundstage is so clear you can hear the different acoustic recording spaces for the different instruments/singers.
The bass sounds better defined (pink floyd's dark side is really spectacular now), but here I feel there is something missing, like the rhytm and the foottapping. Maybe it is the different character I have to get used to or maybe the X-reg needs some time to break in?
Technically the spikes above 300 Hertz are gone, no noise, but still some 50 Hertz ( and 150/250). It is in the noisefloor of the record, but still it's annoying me. I tried everything I can think of, but the most influence is the inputcable. When I hold it up in the air the hum is almost gone.
I was thinking that maybe a true star-earth would help, now I connected the COM to the X-reg left and right and from their to left and right phonoclone. Maybe it is better to connect the com to the phonoclone and to the x-reg seperately and not between x-reg and phonoclone?
It would be nice if the board would give an option to have seperate lines for signal and for power ground so you could make a star outside the boards for left and right combined?
So all in all a big improvement but I am still experimenting for hum and bass.
The operation was more complicated then expected but everything is running smoothly for a couple of days.
At first startup you hear the smooth mid and highs directly. Also it sounds like you hear every detail there is. The highs are sounding more clear and bright (highhats and triangles sound like new).
Even the soundstage is so clear you can hear the different acoustic recording spaces for the different instruments/singers.
The bass sounds better defined (pink floyd's dark side is really spectacular now), but here I feel there is something missing, like the rhytm and the foottapping. Maybe it is the different character I have to get used to or maybe the X-reg needs some time to break in?
Technically the spikes above 300 Hertz are gone, no noise, but still some 50 Hertz ( and 150/250). It is in the noisefloor of the record, but still it's annoying me. I tried everything I can think of, but the most influence is the inputcable. When I hold it up in the air the hum is almost gone.
I was thinking that maybe a true star-earth would help, now I connected the COM to the X-reg left and right and from their to left and right phonoclone. Maybe it is better to connect the com to the phonoclone and to the x-reg seperately and not between x-reg and phonoclone?
It would be nice if the board would give an option to have seperate lines for signal and for power ground so you could make a star outside the boards for left and right combined?
So all in all a big improvement but I am still experimenting for hum and bass.
Attachments
Hi Fran,
I'm using a vdHull Frog. As far as I know it has 23 ohm's impedance.
So I'm using this for R1 and 360 ohm for R2.
At testing I also found out that I forgot the trafo is 2 times 15 Volts, which gives 21 to the X-reg, and 11 Volts to the Phonoclone. I don't know if this is a problem... Maybe I better lower it to 9 or 10V ?
I'm using a vdHull Frog. As far as I know it has 23 ohm's impedance.
So I'm using this for R1 and 360 ohm for R2.
At testing I also found out that I forgot the trafo is 2 times 15 Volts, which gives 21 to the X-reg, and 11 Volts to the Phonoclone. I don't know if this is a problem... Maybe I better lower it to 9 or 10V ?
Mine sounded better at lower voltage, say 9-9.5 or so.
My reason for asking is that a few people have reported this hum, and others don't have it at all. I was wondering if those with carts which have very low impedance (eg mine is 11R for the Benz L2 and 4R for the zyx R50) are more susceptible to the hum.
Fran
My reason for asking is that a few people have reported this hum, and others don't have it at all. I was wondering if those with carts which have very low impedance (eg mine is 11R for the Benz L2 and 4R for the zyx R50) are more susceptible to the hum.
Fran
Can you describe in what way it sounds better?
Might be possible, even with a dummy input resistor there still is some 50 Hz left, although 20 - 30dB lower.
Other possibilities I was thinking off: The powercable picks up the 50 Hz but this should be filtered out by the X-reg.
Or the aluminium box does not shield enough?
Or the grounding is not OK...