I thought I already said which ones I use - although you seem to have bought the surface mount version. They do come in the flat-on-both-sides version of the TO-92. Whether or not you can get away with the SMD version depends on operating frequency. Yours isn’t crazy high, frequency but you are driving oversized devices (apparently to combat design issues). When you’re doing close to 1MHz (HARD!) switching to drive a class D hi-fi amp they won’t (BD139/140 get hot enough to burn fingers). High switching freq not only charges the gate capacitance more times per second, but the push pull drivers will themselves go into cross conduction.
Those On TO-92‘s are a little thin on gain. I’ve found the BC237/337 to be better. I used to like the C6043/A2127 pair for both amp and switch duty in the 15 volt range but NOOOOO, we can’t HAVE those anymore…..
Those On TO-92‘s are a little thin on gain. I’ve found the BC237/337 to be better. I used to like the C6043/A2127 pair for both amp and switch duty in the 15 volt range but NOOOOO, we can’t HAVE those anymore…..
Thanks dear,the TO92,SS8050 ordered because i see in this circuit with the same IGBT that i will use now.
Those you recommended aren't in stock at Mouser in To92 case style.
Those you recommended aren't in stock at Mouser in To92 case style.
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Transformer-driven, which means base current is (almost) irrelevant. When IC driven (especially with a passive pull up) you want as much gain as you can get out of ‘em.
As long as the IR’s bootstrap capacitors weren’t running out of charge driving the 1k static load I’d just leave it. Lower R is better overall.
Up and running again.
Instead of 10 Ohm NTC i have used 2X22 Ohm/5W resistors.
Next step is the bulb tester in series with 22 Ohm resistors.
When relay is closed bulb and resistors will be shorted and i hope not 💥.
Instead of 10 Ohm NTC i have used 2X22 Ohm/5W resistors.
Next step is the bulb tester in series with 22 Ohm resistors.
When relay is closed bulb and resistors will be shorted and i hope not 💥.
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Next step.
1)No bulb protection,just a 47 Ohm+22 Ohm+22 Ohm all in series to the main.NO BOOM!
2)>> >> >> ,just a 6R8+22 Ohm+22 Ohm >> >> >> >>. NO BOOM!
3) >> >> >> ,just a 3R9+22 Ohm+22 Ohm >> >> >> >>. NO BOOM!
1)No bulb protection,just a 47 Ohm+22 Ohm+22 Ohm all in series to the main.NO BOOM!
2)>> >> >> ,just a 6R8+22 Ohm+22 Ohm >> >> >> >>. NO BOOM!
3) >> >> >> ,just a 3R9+22 Ohm+22 Ohm >> >> >> >>. NO BOOM!
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The real test of course is zero ohms no boom. Then 8 ohms (on the output) at full power with no boom.
My guess is with some R there would never be any boom anyway. Even with two 22 ohm the current off the line would never get stupid. The resistor might smoke but might not draw enough current to cause IGBTs to actually go boom.
If you always started it through a resistor, let it stabilize, then short the resistor out you may never have had an issue to begin with. Light bulbs ARE a resistor. Just one that changes value in just the right way to be able to troubleshoot amps/power supplies without worrying about flying superheated pieces of silicon taking an eye out.
My guess is with some R there would never be any boom anyway. Even with two 22 ohm the current off the line would never get stupid. The resistor might smoke but might not draw enough current to cause IGBTs to actually go boom.
If you always started it through a resistor, let it stabilize, then short the resistor out you may never have had an issue to begin with. Light bulbs ARE a resistor. Just one that changes value in just the right way to be able to troubleshoot amps/power supplies without worrying about flying superheated pieces of silicon taking an eye out.
Hello! Great work! Looking forward for your part list, adding a lot of value to this thread! Thank you!I will post all used parts with Mouser code,i hope that this would be useful for someone here.
I would clarify that i don't know if all parts that i have replaced are all necessary.
Fuse:530-0659C4000-12 (4A slow blow).
IR2153
IGBT. 747-IXGH60N60C3D1
Diodes. 583-HER103G
Diode. 821-HER107GA0G
NTC replaced with 2 X22ohm resistors in series. 594-AC05W22R00JCS
Capacitors. 0.22uf . 5989-250V.22-F
Bridge rectifier. 750-GBJ2506-G
Reson. capacitor 594-2222-378-52105 (1uf/400v).
For IGBT drivers i used 512-FZT790A
522-FZT690BTA
Because i haven't found any suitable driver available,i used smd.
Shund resistors. 660-BPR58CR10J.
All from Mouser Electronic.
Please ask if something isn't clear enough.
Fuse:530-0659C4000-12 (4A slow blow).
IR2153
IGBT. 747-IXGH60N60C3D1
Diodes. 583-HER103G
Diode. 821-HER107GA0G
NTC replaced with 2 X22ohm resistors in series. 594-AC05W22R00JCS
Capacitors. 0.22uf . 5989-250V.22-F
Bridge rectifier. 750-GBJ2506-G
Reson. capacitor 594-2222-378-52105 (1uf/400v).
For IGBT drivers i used 512-FZT790A
522-FZT690BTA
Because i haven't found any suitable driver available,i used smd.
Shund resistors. 660-BPR58CR10J.
All from Mouser Electronic.
Please ask if something isn't clear enough.
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