pinkmouse said:
I was equally confused.
Noob has been building some drivers up recently and I'm pretty sure he's gone and swallowed some ferrofluid thinking it was Cola. 😛
Hi Shin,
Not sure if I should be seen conversing with such a dirty boy, but here goes, anyway!
Due to doubts over Carr's existence (and maybe a few drinks!) I didn't answer all of your query, i.e. over its use, yesterday.
Dipping is the suggested method, but I have had success with applying it with small brushes (some of their formulas are rather damaging, so don't use a good camel-hair one here!) or often simply a cotton bud. The time of application will determine the resultant colour depth, as it works by oxidising the surface of the substrate, rather than being an 'applied' finish like paint.
I reckon if it turns out to be suitable, you could do the pointy bit (AKA phase plug!) with a moistened cotton bud without risking any damage to the diaphragm. Otherwise, if you are taking the face-plate off anyway, you could do this by swilling it in a saucer, or whatever.
They have another useful product which is a pre-cleaner to ensure the surface is free of all sh(eye)t and grease, and this is called "Acidip", so you may find this useful, too. On larger areas it does ensure a more even application, but eventually the entire area will take up the maximimum black effect, even if the metal is not clinically clean.
You just don't want to start off with greasy thumb-prints, or whatever, as this inhibits the action of the oxidising agent.
My only reservation (until I have tried it on the same drivers for myself) is whether the metal parts are anodised already (they certainly don't appear to be lacquered in any way) as this will also tend to inhibit the action of this stuff, I guess. This is why I suggested trying the back of one unit first to see what happens, here.
Last time I checked "metal black" was not very expensive, anyway, and compared with the cost of the drivers, I reckoned it was worth trying this out. It gives a dull effect, not shiny, which I think would suit these drivers best.
Good luck if you try it, and I would be interested to learn of any results. When I have time, I must dissemble my units and do something similar, but this is unlikely for a week or two.
Regards, 🙂
Not sure if I should be seen conversing with such a dirty boy, but here goes, anyway!
Due to doubts over Carr's existence (and maybe a few drinks!) I didn't answer all of your query, i.e. over its use, yesterday.
Dipping is the suggested method, but I have had success with applying it with small brushes (some of their formulas are rather damaging, so don't use a good camel-hair one here!) or often simply a cotton bud. The time of application will determine the resultant colour depth, as it works by oxidising the surface of the substrate, rather than being an 'applied' finish like paint.
I reckon if it turns out to be suitable, you could do the pointy bit (AKA phase plug!) with a moistened cotton bud without risking any damage to the diaphragm. Otherwise, if you are taking the face-plate off anyway, you could do this by swilling it in a saucer, or whatever.
They have another useful product which is a pre-cleaner to ensure the surface is free of all sh(eye)t and grease, and this is called "Acidip", so you may find this useful, too. On larger areas it does ensure a more even application, but eventually the entire area will take up the maximimum black effect, even if the metal is not clinically clean.
You just don't want to start off with greasy thumb-prints, or whatever, as this inhibits the action of the oxidising agent.
My only reservation (until I have tried it on the same drivers for myself) is whether the metal parts are anodised already (they certainly don't appear to be lacquered in any way) as this will also tend to inhibit the action of this stuff, I guess. This is why I suggested trying the back of one unit first to see what happens, here.
Last time I checked "metal black" was not very expensive, anyway, and compared with the cost of the drivers, I reckoned it was worth trying this out. It gives a dull effect, not shiny, which I think would suit these drivers best.
Good luck if you try it, and I would be interested to learn of any results. When I have time, I must dissemble my units and do something similar, but this is unlikely for a week or two.
Regards, 🙂
Just found this link...
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/...e_Metalblacking_Products_187.html&CatalogBody
If anyone tries this, I would be very interested in results, I'm always very interested in home friendly metal finishing techniques.
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/...e_Metalblacking_Products_187.html&CatalogBody
If anyone tries this, I would be very interested in results, I'm always very interested in home friendly metal finishing techniques.
Hi Al,
If you mean 'tries' the Carrs products, I have been using them for around 35yrs, and they are excellent.
"Simply does what it says on the tin" as the expression goes!
One advantage is their availability in small (read inexpensive) quantities, but if going for larger amounts of *ferrous types* of metal black "Frost Auto" of Rochdale products [ www.frost.co.uk ] are cheaper, overall. 1 Litre is (was) £11 from them.
With 'clean' metal, the Carrs products work fine, but as I have these same tweeters as Shin, I am guessing that they may be anodised, which may (or may not!) affect the action of the product. It will depend on the depth of the anodising, of course, if they have already been treated, as this already oxidises the metal's surface to an extent and could inhibit much further action here.
I have all (six?) of their different formulations, and have as yet only come across two metals which are resistant to one or another of these products, or some combination which can be tested. As the makers advise, these different formulations can be used in combination (not mixed together, though) and this will cover most 'ordinary' metals you will come across. I must have worked here with all well-known ferrous and non-ferrous metals over the years, and a few of the more exotic types, too.
The only two metals I had some difficulty with were stainless-steel (hardly surprising, maybe?) and titanium.
Regards,🙂
P.S. Chronos are excellent people to deal with for small/light engineering supplies, but I forgot about them when I was thinking about Shin's needs, yesterday. I think it is called "having a senior moment"!
If you mean 'tries' the Carrs products, I have been using them for around 35yrs, and they are excellent.
"Simply does what it says on the tin" as the expression goes!
One advantage is their availability in small (read inexpensive) quantities, but if going for larger amounts of *ferrous types* of metal black "Frost Auto" of Rochdale products [ www.frost.co.uk ] are cheaper, overall. 1 Litre is (was) £11 from them.
With 'clean' metal, the Carrs products work fine, but as I have these same tweeters as Shin, I am guessing that they may be anodised, which may (or may not!) affect the action of the product. It will depend on the depth of the anodising, of course, if they have already been treated, as this already oxidises the metal's surface to an extent and could inhibit much further action here.
I have all (six?) of their different formulations, and have as yet only come across two metals which are resistant to one or another of these products, or some combination which can be tested. As the makers advise, these different formulations can be used in combination (not mixed together, though) and this will cover most 'ordinary' metals you will come across. I must have worked here with all well-known ferrous and non-ferrous metals over the years, and a few of the more exotic types, too.
The only two metals I had some difficulty with were stainless-steel (hardly surprising, maybe?) and titanium.
Regards,🙂
P.S. Chronos are excellent people to deal with for small/light engineering supplies, but I forgot about them when I was thinking about Shin's needs, yesterday. I think it is called "having a senior moment"!
Hi Shin,
Hi Bob
Speak of the devil - I bought an air brush kit from a local model maker on the way home from work this evening. Its only a very basic model and was cheap at £30. It works off the existing compressor with the air flow suitably toned down.
I should have commented on this before, in case it helps.
I use a thumping great compressor (mainly for a vehicle hoist in the garage and some spraying jobs) but I found that this is fine for the airbrush so long as you use a suitable pressure-reducing valve and filter. Initially I had some concerns, but didn't wish to shell-out for another compressor, of course.
Make sure it has an effective water-trap, though, but I expect you will already be aware of this from your spraying activities.
I like using the air brush for many reasons, not least because it uses much less thinners (and time!) to clean up afterwards, when you are just doing small paint jobs. I find it more useful (many times) than a 'touch-up' spray gun, which I hardly use nowadays since the arrival of the Badger, and I have done quite large areas with it like several solid-bodied guitars I made etc.
I'm sure you will get on OK with the 250 series gun you have. The main advantages of the 150 (which I have used for about 5 yrs.) is the extra versatility, as it is an internal-mix job and more 'adjustable' etc., but the operating technique is just the same, and so can the results be. The tiny open cup which can be attached to the 150s is rather handy too, and it hardly wastes any paint or thinners at all when doing very small jobs.
However, you are wise to dip your toe in the water first, as you have done, in case it doesn't turn out to your liking.
Having sprayed like yourself, it will be like falling off a log to you, I reckon, although the scale is different and the finger control for the paint etc., are too, but I am sure you will have some great results here.
I'm looking forward to seeing some 'flames', or whatever, on your next creation, or maybe even a nude woman if you want a bit of real class! Billy W. from ATC has had a hard time with his health recently, and that would bring a smile to his face.
Regards, 🙂
ShinOBIWAN said:
I meant that I liked them... they are very nice looking...
I can't wait to see them all dolled up and done 🙂
and yes... I might have become a little "crazy" lately
Just a quickie before I shoot off 😉
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Just caught the tail end of this thread. My dad knows a model train building bloke and he turned me some parts for my car and finished them with that Metal Black stuff. The finish is great. I can get the details off him if you want, he's stiff 'current' and visits enthusiast shows etc. He only lives in Wingerworth so you might even be able to slip him a few notes and he'll black the faceplates for you...
richie00boy said:
That sounds even better. Wingerworth is literally a 15-20 minute drive away and if I could get it done by a pro that'll take put my mind at rest as the thought of wrecking £500 worth of tweeters is holding me back at the moment.
If you could email me the details, I'll give him a call and hopefully we can come to some sort of arrangement.
Cheers Rich 🙂
Bobken said:
No I'm actually gay so I don't find women remotely interesting.
BTW: Just in case; that really was a joke. I did try being gay but just couldn't get along with it, so gave it up 😀
PS. That was a pretty distasteful post, no offense intended to George Michael, the male members of Steps or anyone who spends most of their time in the company of female 'friends'.
I'll stop because I'm going to get banned in a minute.
Hi,
Yes, I think you are digging yourself hole here.
As I got older, sex got on top of me, and at other times, it just got me down! 😱
Anyone got a spade?😀
Yes, I think you are digging yourself hole here.
As I got older, sex got on top of me, and at other times, it just got me down! 😱
Anyone got a spade?😀
Bobken said:
😀 😀 😀
Sorry but stuck at work sat in front of the computer, little work to do and bored.
Needed some light relief and came over all queer
OK OK... No really I'll stop now.
*Hands Bob the shovel*
Shin,
I've just made friends with a nice chap from Australia in another thread. If I keep digging at this rate, I'll soon be able to say hello to him!
Anyway, what's all this about getting someone else to do your tweeter colouring?
Would have thought you couldn't wait for an excuse to get the old rubber gloves on again!
I've just made friends with a nice chap from Australia in another thread. If I keep digging at this rate, I'll soon be able to say hello to him!
Anyway, what's all this about getting someone else to do your tweeter colouring?
Would have thought you couldn't wait for an excuse to get the old rubber gloves on again!
From what I remember the guy telling me, the kit I think he said was about £50. OK not a lot of cash, but for a one use thing... He might do the blacking for maybe £10 or £20 so that's got to be worth it? Especially as he knows the stuff?
Bobken said:
Your posts scared me off 😀 With all the talk of anodised this and do-dah that, it sounds like I'd need a +14 skill in metalurgy to even take the top of the 'black metal' container.
Besides Rich made it sound like this guy knows how to get the job done first time without mistakes and without coverups. That's got to be worth a few notes over the cost of buying the factory black ring radiator or even worse, disfiguring the existing silver ones through 'hey its my first time' o-rama.
Perhaps the real reason is more simple; I'm lazy 😀
Would have thought you couldn't wait for an excuse to get the old rubber gloves on again!
Gloves!? Just use your sleeves.
How much extra are the black tweeters? Also, is the faceplate steel? I think it's the steel formula he has.
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