Pass SLOB Build Discussion

I meant to make it balanced, should everything be matched perfectly? Lots of Jfets to match, if that is the case.
Haha! That didn’t even occur to me! Would be interesting to get opinions on this. I don’t think it’s a huge issue but it would be good to hear from people who know stuff like Zennie. In my case I probably won’t use it balanced, but it would be good to know….

However the question I thought you asked brings up a point: it would be cool if one could populate a PCB including all connectors and it would slide right into a case and everything would line up with the holes. Probably our kits will never get to that point!
 
oSyQbXs.jpg

Is that a titanium frame in the background? NIce!
 
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Hello Variac,

I did something similar like you with my ACN (post #370 following). Was a little bit of a pain, to get the print away (with solvent and something soft to 'scratch') without damaging the anodization. 😳
Cheers
Dirk
I”m planning to use paint remover which should be much more effective than a regular solvent. But I’ll try it in a not visible area! I once did try acetone to remove text from one of these chassis and yeah it required some scrubbing. Your photo reminds me that Neutrik does have an RCA connector that fits in an XLR hole, which we use in our “Deluxe Chassis” to allow people a choice of XLR or RCA. They also make plastic covers to put over unused holes, which is what I drilled to accommodate the power switch.
 
I like how you oriented the mounting screws for the woofs. On mine they are rotated such that the bolts at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees are up against the sides. I plan to install T-nuts the next time I try a new bass driver so I don't chew up my hand reaching into the slot to loosen/tighten the woofer bolts.
 
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I like how you oriented the mounting screws for the woofs. On mine they are rotated such that the bolts at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees are up against the sides. I plan to install T-nuts the next time I try a new bass driver so I don't chew up my hand reaching into the slot to loosen/tighten the woofer bolts.
The fixings are countersunk stainless steel allen bolts, epoxied into the ply and oriented so the sockets face front/back so that it's easy to to get an allen key onto the bolt heads inside the slot when I torque down the nuts.