Haha! That didn’t even occur to me! Would be interesting to get opinions on this. I don’t think it’s a huge issue but it would be good to hear from people who know stuff like Zennie. In my case I probably won’t use it balanced, but it would be good to know….I meant to make it balanced, should everything be matched perfectly? Lots of Jfets to match, if that is the case.
However the question I thought you asked brings up a point: it would be cool if one could populate a PCB including all connectors and it would slide right into a case and everything would line up with the holes. Probably our kits will never get to that point!
Is that a titanium frame in the background? NIce!
Sadly not, it's actually a steel frame with a pretend titanium paint job - Reynolds tubing though so not to shabby. It rarely gets ridden though as I'm more of a roadie. The blue one is a runabout gravel bike I've recently put together.Is that a titanium frame in the background? NIce!
I”m planning to use paint remover which should be much more effective than a regular solvent. But I’ll try it in a not visible area! I once did try acetone to remove text from one of these chassis and yeah it required some scrubbing. Your photo reminds me that Neutrik does have an RCA connector that fits in an XLR hole, which we use in our “Deluxe Chassis” to allow people a choice of XLR or RCA. They also make plastic covers to put over unused holes, which is what I drilled to accommodate the power switch.Hello Variac,
I did something similar like you with my ACN (post #370 following). Was a little bit of a pain, to get the print away (with solvent and something soft to 'scratch') without damaging the anodization. 😳
Cheers
Dirk
Congratulations….the speakers are like Pass amps…..detailed sound flows effortlessly from dead silence with lovely tone. I’m using ACAs at the moment but we’re on the same wavelength: I have the VFET modules for the wide range SAL driver and F-6 boards and transformers for the bass amp….
Not for long sucka! Remember there are 2 more amp channels you can’t see. All soon to be in big boxes with big manly heatsinks!that's Proper Papafollower, Iguana Style! Xover stage is bigger and weightier than 2 monoblocks!
😛
It is called DIY for a reason, as Zenmod likes to remind me when I ask to many questions. 🙂it would be cool if one could populate a PCB including all connectors and it would slide right into a case and everything would line up with the holes. Probably our kits will never get to that point!
since I’m probably the guy who would have to work it out, I am pretty sure it won’t happen soon if ever…
More sanding and glueing today - my SLOBs are all clamped up to cure now - I should get most of the assembling completed next weekend and I'll post some more pictures then.
I got most of the assembly of the SLOBs done this afternoon;

Nauti nice 🙂I got most of the assembly of the SLOBs done this afternoon;
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I like how you oriented the mounting screws for the woofs. On mine they are rotated such that the bolts at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees are up against the sides. I plan to install T-nuts the next time I try a new bass driver so I don't chew up my hand reaching into the slot to loosen/tighten the woofer bolts.
There is hope for a SLOBfest i.e. another Speaker Camp in California this summer an hour north of SF.
Best to go for M4 or M5 T-Nuts?I like how you oriented the mounting screws for the woofs. On mine they are rotated such that the bolts at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees are up against the sides. I plan to install T-nuts the next time I try a new bass driver so I don't chew up my hand reaching into the slot to loosen/tighten the woofer bolts.
The fixings are countersunk stainless steel allen bolts, epoxied into the ply and oriented so the sockets face front/back so that it's easy to to get an allen key onto the bolt heads inside the slot when I torque down the nuts.I like how you oriented the mounting screws for the woofs. On mine they are rotated such that the bolts at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees are up against the sides. I plan to install T-nuts the next time I try a new bass driver so I don't chew up my hand reaching into the slot to loosen/tighten the woofer bolts.
The bolts currently holding my Definimax woofs are SAE. Soon I plan to take one to the hardware store to find a match.Best to go for M4 or M5 T-Nuts?
I can't quite picture it. Probably 'cause it's late. :-]The fixings are countersunk stainless steel allen bolts, epoxied into the ply and oriented so the sockets face front/back so that it's easy to to get an allen key onto the bolt heads inside the slot when I torque down the nuts.
The hour north of SF I could manage, getting to SF is somewhat more problematic 😅There is hope for a SLOBfest i.e. another Speaker Camp in California this summer an hour north of SF.
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