Hi Garf, this looks ok to me. The final proof will be if the system hums or not....
Are you sure the GND of the new arm is not connected to the metalwork of the TT? Also, it would be interesting to check if the downstream equipment (amp and anything connected) is eventually grounded, and you may see a "Earth" connection that way.
By the way, I think using one box for both Paradise channels might be better, probably because it is easier to avoid unwanted ground loop impedance, but I never tried - personal taste, I guess....
Let us know how it works 😀
Are you sure the GND of the new arm is not connected to the metalwork of the TT? Also, it would be interesting to check if the downstream equipment (amp and anything connected) is eventually grounded, and you may see a "Earth" connection that way.
By the way, I think using one box for both Paradise channels might be better, probably because it is easier to avoid unwanted ground loop impedance, but I never tried - personal taste, I guess....
Let us know how it works 😀
Using the signal wiring to earth the TT arm seems wrong.
Can you use a separate wire to earth the arm?
Can you use a separate wire to earth the arm?
I am trying the PSU with the Paradise connected to it,and the voltage I get out of it is 23,5-24 volt.I have 1,5v over the resistors,I guess the only choise I have is to short the resistors,If I dont wanna change the transformers (I have the 22v variant).
How much CCS current is your PSU's drawing? If you have alot of headroom current, then lowering the CCS-current will give you a bit more voltage - since the pre-regulator drops more at higher currents..
I actually even had to drop the 10R resistor to 5.9R to have enough voltage out of the pre-reg, even though i have 24v secondaries.. But that was very low voltage in the wall outlet.. 220v.. But now it works fine all the way between 220-240v, with no heating issues at 240v AC-voltage..
I actually even had to drop the 10R resistor to 5.9R to have enough voltage out of the pre-reg, even though i have 24v secondaries.. But that was very low voltage in the wall outlet.. 220v.. But now it works fine all the way between 220-240v, with no heating issues at 240v AC-voltage..
No I don´t have much current headroom,as I have the original current resistors
and I use the optional buffer.
I messaured the incomming voltage,and it is 240v AC.
Will shorting the resistors raise noise?Is the regulator/CCS sensitive for this?
and I use the optional buffer.
I messaured the incomming voltage,and it is 240v AC.
Will shorting the resistors raise noise?Is the regulator/CCS sensitive for this?
If you are drawing ~130mA, then removing 10R will still only add 1.3v, so it will still not be enough.. and also if your maila voltage drop to 230 or even 220v you would be way to low... I would recommend changing the trans formers then...
Hmm,I wonder why theres Talema 70065K 22v transformer recomended in the BoM.....
Anyway I can´t find a Talema 25VA 2x24v on the net only 22v as I have.
Or should I go higher than 24v?
Anyway I can´t find a Talema 25VA 2x24v on the net only 22v as I have.
Or should I go higher than 24v?
This is my original design using a 24V transformer, as I have always been a like'r of toroid's, I would advice a 30VA (or 20VA) like this one https://sklep.toroidy.pl/en_US/c/30-VA/101/1/default/1/f_ov_8_58/1/f_ov_14_168/1/f_ov_14_169/1 (Toroidy does not show a 25VA model).
If current insights have changed (after that original post) then please let me know 🙂
Ryssen,
Remove the 10r resistors on the psu smoother board, that will give you nearly 1.5v back which will put you at 25v+ into the psu, which is enough.
Also, which diodes are you using? They make a difference, using the LQA10T300 gives me half a volt more on each rail than using the LQA05TC600.
Also, do you only have one of the common mode coils wired fully wired to the other psu board? It looks like you have one wired with two wires and the other wired with only one. This means only one is giving you common mode rejection, the other is bypassed on the coil.
Remove the 10r resistors on the psu smoother board, that will give you nearly 1.5v back which will put you at 25v+ into the psu, which is enough.
Also, which diodes are you using? They make a difference, using the LQA10T300 gives me half a volt more on each rail than using the LQA05TC600.
Also, do you only have one of the common mode coils wired fully wired to the other psu board? It looks like you have one wired with two wires and the other wired with only one. This means only one is giving you common mode rejection, the other is bypassed on the coil.
Last edited by a moderator:
I use LQA10T300.
You got good eyes,youre right about the common mode,I`ll fix that and bypass the resistors.
You got good eyes,youre right about the common mode,I`ll fix that and bypass the resistors.
But is it still really enough with 1.3V extra? Considering mains voltage flucations i would really look into replacing the transformers? What whas the absolutely minimum input voltage the paradise regulators need for 18v output? Wasn't that 25v?
At 240v AC I have about 23,5v and the regulator is working,If I take it down to 220v ,with an adjustable trafo I have about 21,5-22v and the led string under the heatsink stops lighting,So sure it would be nice with 2 (ac) extra volts.
But it´s NOT going to be the Supreme Audio grade trafo.. I´ll manage with the
Audio Grade...
But I wonder when will the power go down to 220v when where supposed to have 230v here in Sweden?
But it´s NOT going to be the Supreme Audio grade trafo.. I´ll manage with the
Audio Grade...
But I wonder when will the power go down to 220v when where supposed to have 230v here in Sweden?
You are on the harmonised mains supply.
You country operates on the same voltages it used before Harmonisation was introduced.
You are on a nominal 220Vac supply +-tolerances.
Your minimum supply voltage should be 216Vac.
That is the voltage you should test for "no drop out" of your regulators.
If your regulators go into drop out, the glitches in the LV supply repeat at 100Hz and sound horrible.
At 216v ac the Lv is 21.3v and the leds under the heatsink is dimmed.
without the adjustable trafo the voltage is 241v ac.
Will a 2x24 trafo be enough?They have a 2x25v trafo to,but maybe the Lv will be to high with 241v ac in.
without the adjustable trafo the voltage is 241v ac.
Will a 2x24 trafo be enough?They have a 2x25v trafo to,but maybe the Lv will be to high with 241v ac in.
That's where you have to design the system to work properly and safely over the range of mains supply voltage from 216Vac to 253Vac.
The same as the manufacturers have to do if they want to sell a product for use in the EU.
Ryssen : i have 2x24VAC r-core from selectronic, with those i had to to lower the 10R to 5.9R to have enough voltage at 220VAC mains. It is fine, but if i ordered today, then i would probably go for 2x25VAC rather, more headroom, and the possibility to increase CCS current a few mA extra.
I bought some Rcore and found the voltages much higher than expected/specified. I reported in a Thread many months ago.
The US average AC voltage is 117 and the Asians who sell these r-cores are clueless to get their testing and labels accurate enough to sell them properly.
I had the same higher voltage purchase when doing a pearl 2 build.
They get you also with very high shipping costs....,
Buyer beware!
I had the same higher voltage purchase when doing a pearl 2 build.
They get you also with very high shipping costs....,
Buyer beware!
How much Lv do you have at 240v?
With my calculations with a 2x25v trafo I will have about 27.76v at 241v ac in.
But then I have a 20 ohm resistor with one 18ohm in paralell,Iguess I could tweak the resistor a bit then.
With my test with the Lv bench PSU the CCS current went up a bit when I raised the voltage ,I think I used around 26-26-5v with the bech PSU