Fair points and intelligent question
As far as I understand the imputs benefit from hi Hfe
No so much for the current mirrors
Like you for same guide lines would be most welcome
On shielding
I am currently using a 304 stainless stell box (non magnetic)
and the boards are mounted inside a open top second box made with cooper
Noise is just not there but this IMO is in grand part due to the clever design and board quality.
As far as I understand the imputs benefit from hi Hfe
No so much for the current mirrors
Like you for same guide lines would be most welcome
On shielding
I am currently using a 304 stainless stell box (non magnetic)
and the boards are mounted inside a open top second box made with cooper
Noise is just not there but this IMO is in grand part due to the clever design and board quality.
Did see your nice build.
But for discussing proper shielding,
only the audible abscence of noise is not really a fact.
But for discussing proper shielding,
only the audible abscence of noise is not really a fact.
Tanks that is just beta....
Much smaller surface area for R3
it is a fact that with amp at max and ear glued to speakers I can not ear any noise when needle is up also a fact that I am not realy bothered by frequency above audible
low band with of ears and twetters take care of that.
I say buid Paradise to start with and then if you decide that improvment is needed no body is going to stop you to build new box
Propper shielding may involve Mu metal multiple layers as they do on moving coils transformers this can be had as A4 paper thin sheet from E bay or one can use EMC shielding Paint on multiple layer paper sheet all good stuff as long as one get to play a few track in between builds.
Much smaller surface area for R3
it is a fact that with amp at max and ear glued to speakers I can not ear any noise when needle is up also a fact that I am not realy bothered by frequency above audible
low band with of ears and twetters take care of that.
I say buid Paradise to start with and then if you decide that improvment is needed no body is going to stop you to build new box
Propper shielding may involve Mu metal multiple layers as they do on moving coils transformers this can be had as A4 paper thin sheet from E bay or one can use EMC shielding Paint on multiple layer paper sheet all good stuff as long as one get to play a few track in between builds.
And yes, the Paradise is dead quiet, when shielding, grounding and boxing is done right.
Short circuiting the input makes the noise even lower. The cartridge has some Johnson noise too. Your DL103 with 40 Ohm is 4 times more noisy then the Paradise itself, Benedetto.
Short circuiting the input makes the noise even lower. The cartridge has some Johnson noise too. Your DL103 with 40 Ohm is 4 times more noisy then the Paradise itself, Benedetto.
I keep those in the MY Paradise tread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/220354-my-paradise.html
As mijnheer van den Hul stated @ Krefeld,
my most beloved one o three is worn out !
Donno where to go or what to do.....
Take a look at the assembly guide, at the end I documented my approach to shielding and grounding, worked beautifully for me. Yes the Paradise is dead quiet if done right.....
Here is good stuff :Technics | Cartridge Data | Vinyl Engine
you should be able to shoot one for 50 to 100$
you should be able to shoot one for 50 to 100$
Thanx to both of you !
Im quite confused a bit because on MDR runs the legendary
Isle of Wight Hendix gig........
C ya tomorrow.
Im quite confused a bit because on MDR runs the legendary
Isle of Wight Hendix gig........
C ya tomorrow.
Guys I'd appreciate some input here.
I have measured all my 327's and 90% of them are sub 300hfe, I have 50 ranging from 375-420 but nothing above this.
But 99% of my 337's are 500+ (500-540 mostly) and I have maybe 5 that measure between 450 and 500, but none below 450
So I can't match ****.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a vendor of better 327's and suitable grades?
All help greatly appreciated.
I have measured all my 327's and 90% of them are sub 300hfe, I have 50 ranging from 375-420 but nothing above this.
But 99% of my 337's are 500+ (500-540 mostly) and I have maybe 5 that measure between 450 and 500, but none below 450
So I can't match ****.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a vendor of better 327's and suitable grades?
All help greatly appreciated.
Carolus has same but opposite problem in the other Paradise tread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/217858-paradise-phono-stage-part-gb-5.html post 216
Dig it up and and
option 1 make swap with him
option 2 I got pupu load of 327 (FEW UNDREDS) with HFE above 540 and few undreds 337 with with HFE around the 500 mark
I be happy to help PM on its way
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/217858-paradise-phono-stage-part-gb-5.html post 216
Dig it up and and
option 1 make swap with him
option 2 I got pupu load of 327 (FEW UNDREDS) with HFE above 540 and few undreds 337 with with HFE around the 500 mark
I be happy to help PM on its way
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How hot should the headsink become? Mine is getting boiling hot. Can't leave my fingers on it for more then a second. Output voltages are ok. Input voltage 30V@206mA positive and 30V/152mA negative rail.
Boiling hot is not right. Input conditions are ok so it does not come from over voltage .
Frans, do you have an idea on what to check ?
Un symmetric current draw is a bit strange too. Reversed electrolytic ?
Can you look if one on the electrolytic capacitors shows an expanded top ?
There are slots in the cap that break when an elcap is reversed.
Frans, do you have an idea on what to check ?
Un symmetric current draw is a bit strange too. Reversed electrolytic ?
Can you look if one on the electrolytic capacitors shows an expanded top ?
There are slots in the cap that break when an elcap is reversed.
How hot is boiling hot?
any way for you to mesure?
Running hot on my R2
mesured 48 C with extra sinks and 68 C with sink suplied for R2
see My paradise tread post 18 and after http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/220354-my-paradise.html
Ideal voltagge shuld be about 26 V
150 mA sound about right 200 mA on other rail is to much
Provided there is nothing wrong with components (but that 200 mA look a bit suspicious)
option 1 change trafos for 18 18 V ac ones (just got 2 of those to fit next week if you can wait I will report about it)
option 2 add further CRC after rectifiers (I got 4400 uF 10 Homs 4400 uf fitted inside phono box)
IMO to go a bit hi in voltage and use same extra CRC is way to go
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I did make that mistake and tok hours to find one reversed cap
Switch off for a while (sleep over it) and start afresh.
Cek each single capacitor on the board.