Yes the boards are double layer (Thanks Benedetto). They do have markings in the corners for mounting holes, that are not drilled since it was unclear which type of screws people would use. But you can safely drill there, no wires in that space (and no ground plane - watch out for unwanted ground connections when putting metal screws in other places on the PCB!!)
I was thinking of putting small pieces of copperplate on top of the clusters of trannies, to equalize the temperature, and maybe holding it in place with some small cableties, but only if necessary🙂
Its probably good enough to glue a U-shaped piece of copper on top of the transistors (using superglue). Have not tried this, though. At some point we were considering a "heatsink"-like piece of aluminum, wiht holes where the transistors are, but it never went anywhere.
Hi,
one question regarding the 4 100/16 capacitors. I still have some Black Gate N and I could use it for those areas. The RM does not fit 100%. However, they are non polar
1) can I use them
2) does it make sense to use them at this location (I like to use them, not to waste them). 🙂
The 10/16 and 10/25 will be Elna RFS. Anything, which tells me, that I should use slower capacitors. Like Panasonic FM, FR etc.?
Many thanks, tom
one question regarding the 4 100/16 capacitors. I still have some Black Gate N and I could use it for those areas. The RM does not fit 100%. However, they are non polar
1) can I use them
2) does it make sense to use them at this location (I like to use them, not to waste them). 🙂
The 10/16 and 10/25 will be Elna RFS. Anything, which tells me, that I should use slower capacitors. Like Panasonic FM, FR etc.?
Many thanks, tom
Hi Tom,
my take would be that C103/C203 would benefit from "good" caps, whereas C100/C200 can be regular elcaps - these are "isolated" from the rest of the circuit with rather large resistors so their influence is less.
On the 10uF caps, you can certainly try the Elna RFS. I have used Panasonic FM (or similar) with good results. There are some concerns that a "too good" cap at this spot (especially C105/C205) can cause the shunt to oscillate, but I did not find that to happen (the blocking caps at the mirrors are even lower high frequency impedance anyway). So just try and see if it works......
just my two cents
😀
The "calculated" values are 33.3n and 11n. There should be enough space on the PCB to acommodate these values with paralleling caps so you get the exact values, as good as possible. In my build I used 100pF and 220pF caps in addition to bigger caps to add up to just the right number. More important however than the absolute value is to get it right between the two channels so you get the stereo imaging right.
just my two cents.... this stuff should really be discussed in the "Paradise Builders" thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/218625-paradise-builders-25.html
...Moved. I was thinking just a couple 100nF for that 6x33.3nF and one 22nF for those 2x11nF was my alternative drift. Some 5mm pitch 1% probably.
Oops... it is NOT 6x33nF, only 1x33nF... the cap values given are the TOTAL value. That's why they have the same component indicator, perhaps I should have been more explicit with this.... thanks Salas for moving that comment over from the other thread
Aha, now its clear. So we need a bank of whatever good caps matched between channels for 33.3n and 11n. Roger
Ricardo came up with some alternative values for a total flat result. The recommended values give a slight lift in the deep bass like plus 0.75dB at 20Hz.That is the JG-MiiB house curve.
Updated assembly guide
See attached, this is just a little update regarding the RIAA components:
The values in the schematic are the total values (for both R and C), so in order to get there put as many caps in parallel as needed, same for the resistors.
See attached, this is just a little update regarding the RIAA components:
The values in the schematic are the total values (for both R and C), so in order to get there put as many caps in parallel as needed, same for the resistors.
Balanced out?
Hi,
has the board any support for balanced output? I think not. I remember I had read something in the mpp thread, but couldn't find it.
Has anyone thought about a balanced output, maybe with DRV134?
Best regards
Stephan
Hi,
has the board any support for balanced output? I think not. I remember I had read something in the mpp thread, but couldn't find it.
Has anyone thought about a balanced output, maybe with DRV134?
Best regards
Stephan
Hi Stephan, no there is no balanced out. you would have to use a differential amplifier or transformer for that. I believe there is a fully balanced version in the works, not sure it is done yet.
(Shouldnt say this here, but I am using a FPS from Joachim Gerhard at home, which is fully balanced from input to output - it sounds very very nice, but the Paradise has something special that makes it somewhat outstanding to my ears.....)
(Shouldnt say this here, but I am using a FPS from Joachim Gerhard at home, which is fully balanced from input to output - it sounds very very nice, but the Paradise has something special that makes it somewhat outstanding to my ears.....)