Starting on a prototype build of these myself. Using the Cube Fc8 and the 4015LF. Have the drivers for both, but woodworking skills need some practice, hence the single prototype first. Going to start with Nelson's Cube circuit values first and go from there. It'll be a few weeks yet until we are making music... I hope.
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Hi,
a lot of cool solutions here, I like this kind of speaker. So I plan to build my own
I would use the Dayton Audio DC-380-8 for the woofer and the Tang Band W8-2145. I would use just a low pass filter at about 150 Hz (12dB Butterworth, with Jantzen Audio 000-5356 12 mH/0,45 Ω iron core coil and 94uF cap), the TB should work FR without filter.
Could it work properly? Thank you for a quick check in advance
a lot of cool solutions here, I like this kind of speaker. So I plan to build my own
I would use the Dayton Audio DC-380-8 for the woofer and the Tang Band W8-2145. I would use just a low pass filter at about 150 Hz (12dB Butterworth, with Jantzen Audio 000-5356 12 mH/0,45 Ω iron core coil and 94uF cap), the TB should work FR without filter.
Could it work properly? Thank you for a quick check in advance
Neverminding the name/term, you need something to act as crossover between FR and bass drivers. Several options exist, but active crossover is good start. Meaning you will run one of your amps to drive bass on both speakers, and one for rest of frequency range. Check out the 6-24 article on firstwatt.com, and you’ll get the picture. And the diyaudiostore, they have PCBs and kits 
And no, using an active crossover is not the same as simply biamping. Biamping without active crossover is for sissies. DSP is prolly just as good, but since digital is for sissies, that’s a sissy solution too. That said, I use digital myself for several different things, nothing wrong with being a sissy
In essence: you cannot biamp these speakers without either
A) building a speaker mounted power sucking passove crossover
B) using DSP
C) using an analog/active crossover.
Or so I have read
And no, using an active crossover is not the same as simply biamping. Biamping without active crossover is for sissies. DSP is prolly just as good, but since digital is for sissies, that’s a sissy solution too. That said, I use digital myself for several different things, nothing wrong with being a sissy
In essence: you cannot biamp these speakers without either
A) building a speaker mounted power sucking passove crossover
B) using DSP
C) using an analog/active crossover.
Or so I have read
Nothing wrong with passive speaker crossover, just measure and simulate with mic and Xsim like usual. Requires a big iron core inductor for woofer and lots of padding for full range. Benefit is it works with all your amps and only requires one amp. Nice to listen to different amps without making two or having to redo active XO each time.
You might want to look here for ideas. The only way to “EQ boost for more bass” in passive is to attenuate the tweeter (full range).
The Manzanita is a good example with first order open baffle XO. Extra large inductor will attenuate higher frequencies from woofer.
Fast, fun, Inexpensive OB project
The Manzanita is a good example with first order open baffle XO. Extra large inductor will attenuate higher frequencies from woofer.
Fast, fun, Inexpensive OB project