WG45 has done a great work. I'd like to have a easy adjustable notch on ACN, but I know I'd use only one pair of fullranges on Beta15, at the end...
I used MDF and put a vinyl wrap over it. Not the best looking wrap, but it helped with an inexpensive construction.
I'd take Papa's advice and make the baffle removable and make more than one. I've already switched FR drivers, one 8" for another 8". It fits, just barely, since the dimensions are not the same between manufacturers.
I'd like to try a 10" FR but that means speaker surgery. Having a removable baffle would make it a lot easier to change FR drivers.
I'd take Papa's advice and make the baffle removable and make more than one. I've already switched FR drivers, one 8" for another 8". It fits, just barely, since the dimensions are not the same between manufacturers.
I'd like to try a 10" FR but that means speaker surgery. Having a removable baffle would make it a lot easier to change FR drivers.
I will use birch ply for the bass cradle and 20mm clear acrylic for the baffle.
It's nice that Papa's SLOB has a detachable baffle as it means it's easy to try different full-range drivers - I'll use construction grade plywood baffles for any experiments.
I would like to use Bamboo 'ply' for the cradle but it seems to be almost unobtanium in the UK at the moment and what there is available seems to be ridiculously priced.
Acrylic and bamboo are too expensive here. I think I'll go for plywood (birch or phenolic pine) for front and maybe mdf for base...
Considering that I will drive the 8" fullrange with F3, would 50Wrms be enough for woofer section? in the beginnng I could use an old Claymore (without internal preamp)...
If not, suggestions? class D?
If not, suggestions? class D?
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why not trying first with what you have?
that would be ultimate decider, not guessing game million miles away of Rome
damn greenhorns
that would be ultimate decider, not guessing game million miles away of Rome
damn greenhorns
ZM's advice is the best, as usual.
I tried a bunch of amps for the woofers- Hafler P500, XL600 (way too much) ACA (not quite enough), F1J ( the best one, but I felt guilty letting it run the woofers and not the FR), VFET (had to try it, same as F1J), F5 (pretty good but the amp needs to be rebuilt, runs too hot).
On a whim I bought a cheap TPA3255, 200W per channel, class D amp online. Runs on a 32V SMPS. It's small, uses less power, runs cool and runs the woofers with no issues.
I'll keep it until I build the LM3886 amp from the GB.
I tried a bunch of amps for the woofers- Hafler P500, XL600 (way too much) ACA (not quite enough), F1J ( the best one, but I felt guilty letting it run the woofers and not the FR), VFET (had to try it, same as F1J), F5 (pretty good but the amp needs to be rebuilt, runs too hot).
On a whim I bought a cheap TPA3255, 200W per channel, class D amp online. Runs on a 32V SMPS. It's small, uses less power, runs cool and runs the woofers with no issues.
I'll keep it until I build the LM3886 amp from the GB.
I began the build using WG45's values (thanks!) for SLOB.
I need only two res values and the caps
Happy Building, Peppennino!
Let me know if you have any questions. Listening to my SLOBs with a new F2J on the FR. Enjoying it very much.
Thanks to Papa!
Let me know if you have any questions. Listening to my SLOBs with a new F2J on the FR. Enjoying it very much.
Thanks to Papa!
I'd like to put two potentiometers in front panels instead of trimmers for bass, as seen on B5, in order to allow regulations "on the fly". It would be better to use log pots? I thought to CTS... Can I replace P2 and P4 with a fixed 25k res in parallel with input?
Thanks
Thanks