I actually had a look last night, I couldn't find any stores here selling QSC, can't find supplier either. I guess I'll have to pay to import all this stuff, sigh 
Behringer then? They have higher failure rates afaik but I didn't use them personally.
In Australia, I'm sure there's Pro amplifiers sold. Check what brands dance clubs around you are using...
In Australia, I'm sure there's Pro amplifiers sold. Check what brands dance clubs around you are using...
Hmmm... nothing in the QSC RMX series even provides enough power for the JBL SRX728S (haven't decided on it yet, but justfor discussion purposes)... Even looking at the QSC PL6.0 II (http://www.qscaudio.com/products/amps/powerlight/powerlight.htm) not even that comes near what those drivers need to perform to their best/maximum, as far as I can understand anyway.
...or is that wrong, it specifies 3200/program and 6400/peak @ 4ohm parallel. (the JBL SRX728S)
...or is that wrong, it specifies 3200/program and 6400/peak @ 4ohm parallel. (the JBL SRX728S)
The QSC RMX 5050 will supply 5000W RMS in 4 ohms bridged mode.
That not enough?
The PowerLight 6.0 II will supply 7000W RMS in 4 ohms bridged mode.
That's not enough? You'll have a hard time finding gear more powerful than this hehe!
That not enough?
The PowerLight 6.0 II will supply 7000W RMS in 4 ohms bridged mode.
That's not enough? You'll have a hard time finding gear more powerful than this hehe!
Actually no it's not, check the specs on that JBL SRX728S, 4 ohm parallel or 8ohm x2 input.
http://www.jblpro.com/srx700/PDF/JBL.SRX728S.pdf
As far as I understand, to my knowledge, I can't bridge either of those amps to 4ohm and shove it in the input.
is that wrong?
http://www.jblpro.com/srx700/PDF/JBL.SRX728S.pdf
As far as I understand, to my knowledge, I can't bridge either of those amps to 4ohm and shove it in the input.
is that wrong?Well, if you use a single driver, you're right.
If you use two drivers in parallel, like in that spec sheet, then no problems.
So the power handling of those drivers is 800W continuous / 1600W program / 3200W peak.
If you take the PL 6.0 II it will send 3500W per driver, if you have two in parallel.
BTW, people use the continuous rating to buy an amplifier, the guys with more money might go with the program rating, few of them will go with the peak rating.
136 dB SPL is just way too much anyway.
If you use two drivers in parallel, like in that spec sheet, then no problems.
So the power handling of those drivers is 800W continuous / 1600W program / 3200W peak.
If you take the PL 6.0 II it will send 3500W per driver, if you have two in parallel.
BTW, people use the continuous rating to buy an amplifier, the guys with more money might go with the program rating, few of them will go with the peak rating.
136 dB SPL is just way too much anyway.
so those ratings are for the 2 drivers combined, right?
.. I'm not sure about the parallel configuration etc.. can I use separate amps for each of the drivers in that box? EG --> buy 2 amps that are just right for the driver and connect an amp per driver {in mono} ?
I was thinking 2x Behringer EP2500 if I can do that (power each driver individually with a separate amp = in mono 4ohm load).
How about that?
That way I have 2400 watts RMS @ 4 ohms available for the individual drivers.
.. I'm not sure about the parallel configuration etc.. can I use separate amps for each of the drivers in that box? EG --> buy 2 amps that are just right for the driver and connect an amp per driver {in mono} ?
I was thinking 2x Behringer EP2500 if I can do that (power each driver individually with a separate amp = in mono 4ohm load).
How about that?
That way I have 2400 watts RMS @ 4 ohms available for the individual drivers.
Yes you could do that, but those drivers are not 4 ohms drivers.
You would need to go with different drivers if you want to use two amplifiers to their full potential.
You would need to go with different drivers if you want to use two amplifiers to their full potential.
What ohm drivers are they then? 2? 8? 16? sigh.
I have been wrecking my brain trying to suss out this parallel stuff and what not and I still don't understand. If I wanted to power these drivers individually with an individual amplifier for each, what ohm mono load will I need to feed them?
Thanks, grrr this is getting annoying.
NOTE: If you could PLEASE try and explain what feeding them in "parallel" means, that would be great. In terms of actually plugging in a lead into the drivers and how it is configurated, that would be awesome.
I have been wrecking my brain trying to suss out this parallel stuff and what not and I still don't understand. If I wanted to power these drivers individually with an individual amplifier for each, what ohm mono load will I need to feed them?
Thanks, grrr this is getting annoying.
NOTE: If you could PLEASE try and explain what feeding them in "parallel" means, that would be great. In terms of actually plugging in a lead into the drivers and how it is configurated, that would be awesome.
Each driver alone is a 8 ohms driver.
When you put two 8 ohms drivers in parallel, you get a 4 ohms load.
You could also put two 8 ohms drivers in series, you get a 16 ohms load.
These amplifiers deliver the maximum output in a 4 ohms load. What to do? Use two 8 ohms drivers in parallel.
You could also use different drivers, some drivers are 4 ohms instead of 8 ohms.
Here's an example, I hope you'll understand better.
When you put two 8 ohms drivers in parallel, you get a 4 ohms load.
You could also put two 8 ohms drivers in series, you get a 16 ohms load.
These amplifiers deliver the maximum output in a 4 ohms load. What to do? Use two 8 ohms drivers in parallel.
You could also use different drivers, some drivers are 4 ohms instead of 8 ohms.
Here's an example, I hope you'll understand better.
Attachments
Buy the commercial QSC amplifiers. I will have to check current models but I just used a boat load of CX1202's that were 70 volt.
That same amp is available in standard 2,4,8, ohm. You are looking at about 1200 watts per channel.
I doesn't pay to undersize an amplifier. Far more damage can be done to drivers when an undersize amplifier clips. A system, any system should be set up so that all pieces clip at the same time.
I am talking about multiple pieces of source gear here. For the under informed this is called the gain structure.
That same amp is available in standard 2,4,8, ohm. You are looking at about 1200 watts per channel.
I doesn't pay to undersize an amplifier. Far more damage can be done to drivers when an undersize amplifier clips. A system, any system should be set up so that all pieces clip at the same time.
I am talking about multiple pieces of source gear here. For the under informed this is called the gain structure.
Thanks that helps me a little.
So basically I need to look for different drivers if I'm going to power them to their full potential, unless I want to spend say $3000 for an amp, right?
So basically I need to look for different drivers if I'm going to power them to their full potential, unless I want to spend say $3000 for an amp, right?
JohnnyJ
What I am trying to say is if for example you purchase (2) JBL drivers rated at say 1000 watts long term operation don't power the damn things with a amp rated at say 500 watts. Bass is a funny animal as it seems one never has enough power to achieve the desired DB level. Generally I figure on paper what it should take and then double the amount of drivers and increase the power in relation. I do stadiums and civic centers in other words
pro sound and my average system is in the neighborhood of 50,000-75,000 watts of power.
What I am trying to say is if for example you purchase (2) JBL drivers rated at say 1000 watts long term operation don't power the damn things with a amp rated at say 500 watts. Bass is a funny animal as it seems one never has enough power to achieve the desired DB level. Generally I figure on paper what it should take and then double the amount of drivers and increase the power in relation. I do stadiums and civic centers in other words
pro sound and my average system is in the neighborhood of 50,000-75,000 watts of power.
If you have a 1000 watt driver then don't drive it with a 500 watt amp. In other words use the maximum. In commercial applications it is not uncommon to even go larger in amplifier size.
😀 That's what I intend on doing, to power whatever drivers I buy to their maximum or at least 70-80%.
Cheers
Cheers
Go for an amp with at least 1.5 times the continuous power rating of the drivers to do a justice with the Musical content
K a n w a r
K a n w a r
Agreed.
I usually overpower my speakers. Whether it's PA, hi-fi, or car audio. You can find ways to handle extra power...volume knob, gain, high pass filter, etc....to protect the speaker. You can find a way to work around it. But you can't make up for a weak amp or insufficient power. (And if you try, then you run the risk of damaging the speaker.)
Unless a person is willing to buy more sensitive speakers.
I usually overpower my speakers. Whether it's PA, hi-fi, or car audio. You can find ways to handle extra power...volume knob, gain, high pass filter, etc....to protect the speaker. You can find a way to work around it. But you can't make up for a weak amp or insufficient power. (And if you try, then you run the risk of damaging the speaker.)
Unless a person is willing to buy more sensitive speakers.
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