Do you mean on the backside where the mounting flange meets the actual waveguide wall? Yes, some models have this but most don't. Sometimes the loft function in F360 doesn't cooperate and I have to make the waveguide a bit thinner than the mounting flange, hence the ridge.
I should be able to do thatI'd love to see a YT on how to use the router with the printed guide ribs.... 🙂
The waveguide wall! Thanks, I'll print a few other models as well..Do you mean on the backside where the mounting flange meets the actual waveguide wall? Yes, some models have this but most don't. Sometimes the loft function in F360 doesn't cooperate and I have to make the waveguide a bit thinner than the mounting flange, hence the ridge.
We know a guy that has a vinyl wrapping business. I'm going to try wrapping the waveguides and hoping for an extra smooth surface. The color options are endless
Joel> those waveguides were done with SLS nylon process, so the finish is very different than a typical DIY printer. I print mine on an Ender 3 Pro with the waveguide face up. I think vinyl wrapping could work really well, post pics if you do.
Wow - these prints look much nicer as what I get. Need to try vertical printing!Some improvements made with the printing on the Bambu XC1!
There's a horizontal ridge on top and bottom from the transition from radius to the mounting flange.
This appears in the stl file. Is the ridge on this model only? We might try to smooth that out for next print..
How do you get this special support structures?
Tree supports from the slicer.How do you get this special support structures?
For printing flat on the bed variable layer height from Bambu Studio or Orcaslicer can do a lot to help the straight off the printer appearance.
Also the print is white and that really helps to make the layers look smooth to the eye.
@Joel Wesseling I'd question your slicer's decision to use some of those supports.
The mounting face would carry the same need for support over the entire plane (unless there's an overall toppling issue, which some slicers might not consider). The middle supports shown are to hold the locating pins, important as they may be and the upper ones are only to support the engraved lettering detail.
The mounting face would carry the same need for support over the entire plane (unless there's an overall toppling issue, which some slicers might not consider). The middle supports shown are to hold the locating pins, important as they may be and the upper ones are only to support the engraved lettering detail.
@Joel Wesseling I'd question your slicer's decision to use some of those supports.
I'll ask my neighbor about the supports. Thanks! I assume the user can make changes to the slicer's decisions!
I'm considering the purchase of a Bambu printer
So many ideas for printing and that's just for speakers. Better that I experiment with changes and printing trial parts than to ask someone else that has a printer with extra costs for time involved.
I'll ask my neighbor about the supports. Thanks! I assume the user can make changes to the slicer's decisions!
I'm considering the purchase of a Bambu printer
So many ideas for printing and that's just for speakers. Better that I experiment with changes and printing trial parts than to ask someone else that has a printer with extra costs for time involved.
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Its the first color that I've printed but yes layers are visible as show with this outdoor photo. Acetone might be worth a try on these ones.Also the print is white and that really helps to make the layers look smooth to the eye.
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I'm also curious about what is the absolute smoothest surface possible with the proper 3D printer and providing the operator has all the necessary experience
Mine were printed with a 0.4mm "Hotend" - There is a 0.2mm hotend option and it will take even longer(no problem if I own the printer) but how much better of a surface finish?
Mine were printed with a 0.4mm "Hotend" - There is a 0.2mm hotend option and it will take even longer(no problem if I own the printer) but how much better of a surface finish?
I've messed with Acetone smoothing of ASA and it really doesn't work all that well. Much easier to spray with primer and sand with 220 grit between every coat.
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